CCF 'Lectric Mama Flanger BOM txt - Final Update -Final Final this time!

MichaelW

MichaelW

Well-known member
....or otherwise known as the "Electric Ladyparts Flanger" as per @Diynot.....:)

I'm calling these boards "CCF" projects for the "Pedal Triumvirate" for Chuck, Cooder, and Fig without whom these would not be possible.

I'm checking my inventory of bits and bobs to make sure I have what I need to build this and thought I'd share my BOM txt here for those you that will be building this board.

These values were taken from the schematic, not the board. *I have not reconciled any differences between the schematic and board yet. (I'll do that when I actually build it.)

***Lessons Learned note: When drilling the 125B for this project, the 6 knob layout matches closely with any PedalPCB 6 knob spacing boards for the horizontal spacing.

***HOWEVER***
1. The 2 rows of 3 knobs are spaced ~5mm further apart than the PPCB 6 knob template. So you will need to compensate for this before drilling.
Or you can use the template and plan to do a little "pot leg bending" to make it all work. It's doable, that way too.

2. The stomp switch needs to be located as low as possible on the enclosure. Do not use the PPCB template for locating the stomp.
These boards are longer than PedalPCB boards. It helps to "skootch" the 6 knob template up a little higher than the typical PedalPCB 6 knob placement for the top row of knobs. (I pushed mine 4mm towards the top of the enclosure)

3. IF you do move the top row closer to the top of the enclosure mind where you locate and drill for your DC jack as the middle pot will be very close to the jack if you use the tripod type arrangement. Recommend you use the 3-in-a-line drilling arrangement for the top jacks. (Ask me how I know this......:rolleyes:)

Will update if I find any corrections or find anything more recent from our master circuit wizard @Chuck D. Bones.


Final Update:

I've completed populating my board this afternoon and the below Bill of Materials is now complete.
Any deviations or items not in the schematic but on the boards are marked below and I have arbitrarily assigned them a location number.
These additions of mine are marked in Bold Italics.

Hope this is helpful and clears up any confusing elements of this build. I'm waiting for another relay PIC chip from Fig to see if my build works :p

I might steal the PIC from my CowPoker board tomorrow to test it. Have fun!!!! (And thank you again, @Chuck D. Bones, @cooder and @fig!!)

***********************************************************
'Lectric Mama Flanger BOM list

1/4 Watt Resistors
R1 2m2
R2 68k
R3 1m
R4 5k6
R5 24k
R6 10k
R7 100k
R8 10k
R9 100k
R10 470r
R11 47k
R12 5k6
R13 51k
R14 39k
R15 100k
R16 3k3
R17 47k
R18 1k
R19 5k1
R20 7k5
R21 47k
R22 4k7
R26 68r
R27 47k
R28 56k
R29 10k
R30 4k7
R31 100k
R32 100k
R33 6k8
R34 680r
R35 4k7
R36 10k (Part of the PIC relay circuit, not in schematic. Right next to the 12F675 Relay PIC -IC8)
R37 1K (Part of the relay circuit, not on schematic, right next to the status led pads at the bottom)

Diodes
D1 - 1n5817 (The pads are extremely close and you will not be able to fit this in horizontally. Plan on a vertical installation and save your fingers.)
D2 - 1N4148 (not in schematic, part of the relay switching circuit)
D3 - 1N4148 (not in schematic)
D4 - 1N4148 (not in schematic)


Capacitors
C1 22n
C2 100p
C4 4n7
C5 4n7
C6 150p
C7 3n3
C8 47p
C9 22n (Marked on the back of the board but you can mount it either on the front or back of the board. I mounted it on the front, there's space)
C10 22n
C11 33n
C12 1u
C13 1n
C14 5n6
C15 1n
C16 1u
C17 3u3 (Chuck suggests using Tantalum. Positive leg should be closest to V3207. I did not have a 3u3 Tant and used an electrolytic)
C18 100u (The standard 12.5mm diameter 100uf caps are an extremely tight fit and you will have to "stilt" them to sit over other components)
C19 100u (Same as C18)
C20 100u (Same as C18)
C21 47u
C22 100n
C23 10n
C24 10n
C25 10n
C26 10n
C27 220n
C28 220n
C29 390p
C30 100p (not on schematic, part of relay circuit- right under 12F675 Relay PIC IC8
C31 47u (not on schematic, part of relay circuit- right next to Pin #1 of the 12F675 Relay PIC IC8)
C32 100n ((not on schematic, part of relay circuit- right above 78L05 voltage regulator)
C33 100n (not in schematic right under the second 78L05, part of 5v supply circuit)

Potentiometers
Range - B100k
Depth - B100k
Blend - C100k
Speed - B100k
Wave - B100k
Color - B100k

Trimmers
TR1 - Blend Trim 100k 3362P
TR2 - Color Trim 100k 3362p

IC’s
IC1 - SMD TL072 (if you need one of these DM me, I have plenty)
IC2 - SMD TL072
IC3 - V3207D (If you need one of these don't DM me, go to @Cabintech, they've got them in stock as of today:))
IC4 - V3102D (Same as above for the V3207D)
IC5 - LM311
IC6 - Electric Druid StompFlo OR Chuck’s version provided by FIG (Fig has probably sent you both versions, check the label underneath. One will say "CBD" and the other "Druid". *Use one or the other)
IC7 - 78L05 Voltage Regulator
IC8 - Relay PIC 12F675 (Programmed and sent by @fig)
IC9 - EA2-5NU Relay (Sent by @fig)
IC10 78L05 (*not on the schematic - provides 5v for the relay switching)

Transistors
Q1 - 2N7000 (or you can use BS170 or MPSA13)
Q2 - 2N5087
Q3 - 2N3904


Oddball stuff
L1 - 750UH Inductor (Or 820UH as marked on the board. Marked on the back of the board but you can mount it on either side, doesn't really matter. (I decided to mount mine on the top of the board straddling the trimpot (see pic below). This is an optional component to help filter the squeal. See this post. Tayda sells the 820UH which is what I used.)
If you don't have a 750uH/820UH choke then just use a jumper for the pads on the back of the board.
It's better to use the choke if you have a pedal upstream that uses a charge pump to filter the potential 40k hz noise.

Trim Settings (from Chuck)

Color Trim: set COLOUR to max and turn the trimmer until it's right on the edge of self-oscillation. Or turn it higher if you like that sort of thing.

Blend Trim: set BLEND to max and adjust the trimmer for maximum depth. I use a scope, but you can do it by ear and get plenty close.


Latest schematic from the BreadBoard Thread....

'lectric Mama v3.6.2 page 1.png

'lectric Mama v3.6.2 page 2.png


My populated board as a guide. THERE IS A MISTAKE IN MY BUILD PLEASE NOTE*** I HAVE THE 2N7000 INSTALLED BACKWARDS!

IMG_3677.JPG
 
Last edited:
I've been meaning to ask, and here's an opportunity - what footswitch are we using for this? And is there a Tayda version of it?
 
Nice write up! You may want to confirm the pot spacing on the drill template though. I measured and drilled 30mm between rows (center to center) and I think the PPCB projects are more like 24mm. I modified a Wavelord template to get mine drilled
 
Diynot said:
Nice write up! You may want to confirm the pot spacing on the drill template though. I measured and drilled 30mm between rows (center to center) and I think the PPCB projects are more like 24mm. I modified a Wavelord template to get mine drilled
Click to expand...
I'm just about to drill mine. Will double check and report back......if only I had one of those cool @StompBoxParts knobs spacer thingies......sigh......
 
Diynot said:
Nice write up! You may want to confirm the pot spacing on the drill template though. I measured and drilled 30mm between rows (center to center) and I think the PPCB projects are more like 24mm. I modified a Wavelord template to get mine drilled
Click to expand...
You're absolutely correct, my bad. Looks like the rows are spaced about 5mm further apart than the PPCB 6 knob. I'll update the OP. Thanks for the catch!
 
Last edited:
I think I made the same assumption at first. I printed out a 6 knob PPCB template and laid the board on it. The horizontal spacing lines up close enough for gov work, but I couldn’t get the vertical to be close enough.
 
Diynot said:
You must leave a germanium diode under your pillow and when you are asleep the fabulous @fig will sneak into your room and swap it for a mama board. Or you could just write him a letter like Santa
Click to expand...
Can I sub the Ge diode for a fistful of 1n4148s? I don’t have many Ge diodes to spare but I have a bag of like 300 4148s somewhere 😓

If one is after what I’ve dubbed the “Neapolitan trio” of PCBs, could they theoretically place a hastily notated Neapolitan 6th cadence under their pillow? I could supply fig with whichever method he prefers: bII V7 I; F B7 E; D F#7 C#… would you prefer I notate via set theory? I’m a bit rusty on my Schoenberg analysis, but I recall it would be written as— (1,5,8) (2,5,7,e) (0,4,7)
 
Bricksnbeatles said:
Can I sub the Ge diode for a fistful of 1n4148s? I don’t have many Ge diodes to spare but I have a bag of like 300 4148s somewhere 😓

If one is after what I’ve dubbed the “Neapolitan trio” of PCBs, could they theoretically place a hastily notated Neapolitan 6th cadence under their pillow? I could supply fig with whichever method he prefers: bII V7 I; F B7 E; D F#7 C#… would you prefer I notate via set theory? I’m a bit rusty on my Schoenberg analysis, but I recall it would be written as— (1,5,8) (2,5,7,e) (0,4,7)
Click to expand...
🧐damn music majors🤣.
 
MichaelW said:
....or otherwise known as the "Electric Ladyparts Flanger" as per @Diynot.....:)

I'm calling these boards "CCF" projects for the "Pedal Triumvirate" for Chuck, Cooder, and Fig without whom these would not be possible.

I'm checking my inventory of bits and bobs to make sure I have what I need to build this and thought I'd share my BOM txt here for those you that will be building this board.

These values were taken from the schematic, not the board. *I have not reconciled any differences between the schematic and board yet. (I'll do that when I actually build it.)

***Lessons Learned note: When drilling the 125B for this project, the 6 knob layout matches closely with any PedalPCB 6 knob spacing boards for the horizontal spacing.

***HOWEVER***
1. The 2 rows of 3 knobs are spaced ~5mm further apart than the PPCB 6 knob template. So you will need to compensate for this before drilling.
Or you can use the template and plan to do a little "pot leg bending" to make it all work. It's doable, that way too.

2. The stomp switch needs to be located as low as possible on the enclosure. Do not use the PPCB template for locating the stomp.
These boards are longer than PedalPCB boards. It helps to "skootch" the 6 knob template up a little higher than the typical PedalPCB 6 knob placement for the top row of knobs. (I pushed mine 4mm towards the top of the enclosure)

3. IF you do move the top row closer to the top of the enclosure mind where you locate and drill for your DC jack as the middle pot will be very close to the jack if you use the tripod type arrangement. Recommend you use the 3-in-a-line drilling arrangement for the top jacks. (Ask me how I know this......:rolleyes:)

Will update if I find any corrections or find anything more recent from our master circuit wizard @Chuck D. Bones.

'Lectric Mama Flanger BOM

1/4 Watt Resistors
R1 2m2
R2 68k
R3 1m
R4 5k6
R5 24k
R6 10k
R7 100k
R8 10k
R9 100k
R10 470r
R11 47k
R12 5k6
R13 51k
R14 39k
R15 100k
R16 3k3
R17 47k
R18 1k
R19 5k1
R20 7k5
R21 47k
R22 4k7
R26 68r
R27 47k
R28 56k
R29 10k
R30 4k7
R31 100k
R32 100k
R33 6k8
R34 680r
R35 4k7
R? 10k (Part of the PIC relay circuit, not in schematic. Right next to the 12F675 Relay PIC -IC8)
R? 1K (Part of the relay circuit, not on schematic, right next to the status led pads at the bottom)

Diodes
D1 - 1n5817
D2 - 1N4148 (not in schematic, part of the relay switching circuit)
D3 - 1N4148 (not in schematic)
D4 - 1N4148 (not in schematic)


Capacitors
C1 22n
C2 100p
C4 4n7
C5 4n7
C6 150p
C7 3n3
C8 47p
C9 22n (Mounts to back of the board)
C10 22n
C11 33n
C12 1u
C13 1n
C14 5n6
C15 1n
C16 1u
C17 3u3 (Chuck suggests using Tantalum. Positive leg should be closest to V3207)
C18 100u
C19 100u
C20 100u
C21 47u
C22 100n
C23 10n
C24 10n
C25 10n
C26 10n
C27 220n
C28 220n
C29 390p
C? 100p (not on schematic, part of relay circuit- right under 12F675 Relay PIC IC8
C? 47u (not on schematic, part of relay circuit- right next to Pin #1 of the 12F675 Relay PIC IC8)
C? 100n ((not on schematic, part of relay circuit- right above 78L05 voltage regulator)
C? 100n (not in schematic right under the second 78L05, part of 5v supply circuit)

Potentiometers
Range - B100k
Depth - B100k
Blend - C100k
Speed - B100k
Wave - B100k
Color - B100k

Trimmers
TR1 - Blend Trim 100k 3362P
TR2 - Color Trim 100k 3362p

IC’s
IC1 - SMD TL072 (if you need one of these DM me, I have plenty)
IC2 - SMD TL072
IC3 - V3207D (If you need one of these don't DM me, go to @Cabintech, they've got them in stock as of today:))
IC4 - V3102D (Same as above for the V3207D)
IC5 - LM311
IC6 - Electric Druid StompFlo OR Chuck’s Version provided by FIG (Fig sent both versions, *use one or the other)
IC7 - 78L05 Voltage Regulator
IC8 - Relay PIC 12F675 (Programmed and sent by @fig)
IC9 - EA2-5NU Relay (Sent by @fig)
IC10 78L05 (*not on the schematic - provides 5v for the relay switching)

Transistors
Q1 - 2N7000 (or you can use BS170 or MPSA13)
Q2 - 2N5087
Q3 - 2N3904


Oddball stuff
L1 - 750UH Inductor (Or 820UH as marked on the board. Mounts to the back of the board, optional component to help filter the squeal.
See this post. Tayda sells the 820UH)

Trim Settings (from CBD)
Color Trim: set COLOUR to max and turn the trimmer until it's right on the edge of self-oscillation. Or turn it higher if you like that sort of thing.

Blend Trim: set BLEND to max and adjust the trimmer for maximum depth. I use a scope, but you can do it by ear and get plenty close.
If you don't have a 750uH/820UH choke (Tayda sells them), then just use a jumper.
It's better to use the choke if you have a pedal upstream that uses a charge pump to filter the potential 40k hz noise.

Latest schematic from the BreadBoard Thread....

View attachment 34031

View attachment 34032
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, dude!

Bricksnbeatles said:
Can I sub the Ge diode for a fistful of 1n4148s? I don’t have many Ge diodes to spare but I have a bag of like 300 4148s somewhere 😓

If one is after what I’ve dubbed the “Neapolitan trio” of PCBs, could they theoretically place a hastily notated Neapolitan 6th cadence under their pillow? I could supply fig with whichever method he prefers: bII V7 I; F B7 E; D F#7 C#… would you prefer I notate via set theory? I’m a bit rusty on my Schoenberg analysis, but I recall it would be written as— (1,5,8) (2,5,7,e) (0,4,7)
Click to expand...

Mmmm Schoenberg, now I want cereal.
 
Incidentally, @fig left for a much needed vacation after his massive airlift logistics effort packaging and shipping all his tooth fairy care packages out. He's probably not seeing any of this.......jus sayin......:)
 
I was wondering why there were 37 resistors on the list when I counted 34 on the BoM that I put together. Took me quite a while to figure out that R23, R24, and R25 do not exist. My BoM is correct and, aside from the the numbering scheme, so is this one.

I counted 32 capacitors, but that's because I forgot the flip side cap, C9. So aside from that my cap list is the same. All good.
 
DAJE said:
I was wondering why there were 37 resistors on the list when I counted 34 on the BoM that I put together. Took me quite a while to figure out that R23, R24, and R25 do not exist. My BoM is correct and, aside from the the numbering scheme, so is this one.

I counted 32 capacitors, but that's because I forgot the flip side cap, C9. So aside from that my cap list is the same. All good.
Click to expand...
Sorry about that, I probably should have waited until AFTER populating the board to make this post. There were a lot of "along the way" edits I made to the OP. But it's final now hahah.
 
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