Fordable Drive (ThorpyFX "The Dane")

MichaelW

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
I wasn't originally planning to build this one as I've been shying away from 1590BB overdrives. Somehow they just never make it into the rotation very often because of the footprint. Which is strange since I have no pedalboard heh, must be some kind of psychological thing of seeing that big ol box sitting there taking up the space of two of "something else".

But, being as easily influenced by my many enabler friends on this forum, @harmaes got me thinking about it, which turned into an order in "short order":)

I had already built the "Heavy Water" (Arche Boost) as 2-in-1 dual combo with one side "dirty" and one side clean, so I knew what that was all about. It's a great sounding boost pedal with a very well voiced "lows" control that does a fantastic job fattening up single coils without adding midrange. Again, because it was in a 1590BB it doesn't make it into the rotation of my boost pedals very often because I just never think to use it. I have a shelf of all my 1590BB builds where the pedals go to live and get forgotten about... :p

The Arche Boost originated in the Dane pedal and I remember all the hoopla around this pedal when it was first released.
The drive side is great sounding drive, kind of a cross between a Timmy and a Zen to my ears. There's quite a bit of gain on tap if you use the boost side to push it.

To me it sounds the best in a low gain application. Especially on single coils. Seems like this pedal was designed for Pete Honore (Danish Pete) with his Tele in mind. It sounds great on a Strat or Tele with the gain around 9 o'clock.

Having said that, it's no slouch on a Les Paul either, although it can get pretty wooly at higher gain settings. But in lower gain setting, there's a really nice crunch it can give a Les Paul. The tone control has a pretty broad sweep to help mitigate the wooliness on hum buckers and there's a pretty nice range of eq on tap to set it for different guitars. But to my ears, this drive side shines on single coils, P90's, Firebird pickups.

The Boost side on the clean setting is really where this pedal stands apart and steals the show in my opinion. There's a lot of volume on tap as a clean boost.
In fact I can't get unity even with the level at full CCW. This was true of my Arche build as well. I have compensate at the amp if I want a clean tone. The "Low" control is really cool. I don't think I've ever heard another pedal with a low end control like it has. It's really superbly voiced in that it can add "bloom" without "boom" to single coils. You can really fatten up a strat and make it stand out yet still sound like a strat. It doesn't add a lot of mid or low mids when you turn up the "Low" knob so it doesn't make your single coils sound like a humbucker and somehow you can crank the "lows" knob on full and not get "boomy".

Conversely, the Ge "dirty" boost setting is underwhelming for me. On my Dual Arche build it sounded best when I was boosting the Ge side with the Clean side but on its own it really didn't do much for me. On the Fordable, it's on a toggle switch and the difference is pretty subtle. I've been chatting with @harmaes on his build and trying to find a set of Ge diodes that would work the best. I literally spent a couple hours down the diode rabbit hole and tried probably 6 or 7 different sets with different Vf and leakage numbers. Also, the Ge's are set up in a pretty strange asymmetrical arrangement that I've never seen before. (I've attached the schematic below). I finally wound up using a pair of ITT Red Band Cathode Ge's from SmallBear (My current favorite 1N34A sub) but I flipped one of them so that they are symmetrical. I still don't love it but it's what sounded best to me. The pair of diodes I used measured: .353 .51ua/.366 .66ua on my CCT tester. I will probably never use the "dirty boost" setting. Well, never say never heh, there may be an application at some point. I don't believe the "dirty boost" or "Grit" setting was on the original "Dane" pedal but was introduced in the "Heavy Water" was released, so props to @Robert for including that part of the circuit in the Fordable. Just because it doesn't work for me doesn't mean it won't work for someone else!

Probably my last build report for at least week or so as I'm off to the "other side of the pond" for a business trip tomorrow. One of these days I'm going to have to get little "travel kit" so I can build in my hotel room hahahah. (Actually, I'll be in Malaga, Spain, from what I understand it's a beautiful place and I plan to do some exploring with my free time.)

I used my last Tayda Hammered Copper enclosure. I fell in love with this color early on and built a bunch of pedals with it. To the point that I kinda got tired of seeing it heh. It's probably going to be a long time before I do another Hammered Copper build. Having said that, I still think it looks pretty sharp especially with cream knobs. (You may have noticed from my build reports that I favor cream knobs on just about any color enclosure:)) I used the oxblood-ish knobs for the boost circuit for some contrast.

IMG_4258.JPG

Even though it's in a BB form factor, it's a relatively low component count build and went quite quickly. After messing around so much with the Ge diodes, I soldered the final set into the sockets to avoid going any deeper into the rabbit hole. I don't think there's a magic set of diodes that will change the basic nature of the "Grit" boost setting.

IMG_4260.JPG

Schematic for the Fordable:

Schematic-Fordoble.png
 
Great build and report as usual! Looks like a nicely laid out board.
Drop me a line if you need any suggestions for a travel pedal making kit. I did it for two years spending weeks in isolation in hotels. Only thing that kept me sane!!!! I managed to get all the gear in a toiletry bag size pack. Used a Tayda box and bubble wrap for the boards.
It’s very simple to carry the basics.
 
I may have mentioned this elsewhere, but in my latest Fordoble build I left out all of the diodes in the boost section and can't hear any difference. But I generally use the boost with the boost knob on zero because that's still a decent boost! Cranked it's too loud at home.

And I agree 100% with your assessment of the sound. It's one of my faves for a Strat and my ES-225 sounds huge through it.
 
@MichaelW did you use pin headers for the footswitches, and the drill template posted in the missing docs thread? Just trying to make sure mine is going to line up properly, I love when I can use the pin headers instead of wiring every connection.
 
@MichaelW did you use pin headers for the footswitches, and the drill template posted in the missing docs thread? Just trying to make sure mine is going to line up properly, I love when I can use the pin headers instead of wiring every connection.
I did use the drill template.

You CAN use pin headers but I did not. I prefer using buss wire, but effectively they line up well enough to use pin headers. With buss wire you have a bit more flexibility if your drilling is not exactly spot on. Buss wire will bend more easily than pin headers.
 
...

Probably my last build report for at least week or so as I'm off to the "other side of the pond" for a business trip tomorrow. One of these days I'm going to have to get little "travel kit" so I can build in my hotel room hahahah. (Actually, I'll be in Malaga, Spain, from what I understand it's a beautiful place and I plan to do some exploring with my free time.)
...
Great build and report, sir, but I hope you enjoy a well-deserved break and let some of us try to catch up.

As for building while on holiday...
From the "What's on your workbench: thread: #958 "It'll be fun" I said.


I've built a few pedals while on holiday now, once while on a busy Christmas vacation, and most recently while visiting family. Not having your accustomed set of tools and other implements can be really ... challenging. Especially if something goes wrong and you don't have your regular back-up resources to fall back on.

I've always encouraged others to do it, but after this last Holiday-build I'm beginning to think it's just not worth the extra aggravation. At least, it sure has made me appreciate the regular build-environment that much more.

Next time on vacation, I'm going to skip building a pedal.
 
Well unfortunately, I'm not on vacation but at our company Sales Kick Off event, it's been great to finally be meeting ftf again but it's been a brutal week. I've had two speaking sessions to prepare for then all day "war room" team meetings today. I do have 1/2 a free day tomorrow. Planning to go down to Malaga city center and do some touristy stuff.
 
I wasn't originally planning to build this one as I've been shying away from 1590BB overdrives. Somehow they just never make it into the rotation very often because of the footprint. Which is strange since I have no pedalboard heh, must be some kind of psychological thing of seeing that big ol box sitting there taking up the space of two of "something else".

But, being as easily influenced by my many enabler friends on this forum, @harmaes got me thinking about it, which turned into an order in "short order":)

I had already built the "Heavy Water" (Arche Boost) as 2-in-1 dual combo with one side "dirty" and one side clean, so I knew what that was all about. It's a great sounding boost pedal with a very well voiced "lows" control that does a fantastic job fattening up single coils without adding midrange. Again, because it was in a 1590BB it doesn't make it into the rotation of my boost pedals very often because I just never think to use it. I have a shelf of all my 1590BB builds where the pedals go to live and get forgotten about... :p

The Arche Boost originated in the Dane pedal and I remember all the hoopla around this pedal when it was first released.
The drive side is great sounding drive, kind of a cross between a Timmy and a Zen to my ears. There's quite a bit of gain on tap if you use the boost side to push it.

To me it sounds the best in a low gain application. Especially on single coils. Seems like this pedal was designed for Pete Honore (Danish Pete) with his Tele in mind. It sounds great on a Strat or Tele with the gain around 9 o'clock.

Having said that, it's no slouch on a Les Paul either, although it can get pretty wooly at higher gain settings. But in lower gain setting, there's a really nice crunch it can give a Les Paul. The tone control has a pretty broad sweep to help mitigate the wooliness on hum buckers and there's a pretty nice range of eq on tap to set it for different guitars. But to my ears, this drive side shines on single coils, P90's, Firebird pickups.

The Boost side on the clean setting is really where this pedal stands apart and steals the show in my opinion. There's a lot of volume on tap as a clean boost.
In fact I can't get unity even with the level at full CCW. This was true of my Arche build as well. I have compensate at the amp if I want a clean tone. The "Low" control is really cool. I don't think I've ever heard another pedal with a low end control like it has. It's really superbly voiced in that it can add "bloom" without "boom" to single coils. You can really fatten up a strat and make it stand out yet still sound like a strat. It doesn't add a lot of mid or low mids when you turn up the "Low" knob so it doesn't make your single coils sound like a humbucker and somehow you can crank the "lows" knob on full and not get "boomy".

Conversely, the Ge "dirty" boost setting is underwhelming for me. On my Dual Arche build it sounded best when I was boosting the Ge side with the Clean side but on its own it really didn't do much for me. On the Fordable, it's on a toggle switch and the difference is pretty subtle. I've been chatting with @harmaes on his build and trying to find a set of Ge diodes that would work the best. I literally spent a couple hours down the diode rabbit hole and tried probably 6 or 7 different sets with different Vf and leakage numbers. Also, the Ge's are set up in a pretty strange asymmetrical arrangement that I've never seen before. (I've attached the schematic below). I finally wound up using a pair of ITT Red Band Cathode Ge's from SmallBear (My current favorite 1N34A sub) but I flipped one of them so that they are symmetrical. I still don't love it but it's what sounded best to me. The pair of diodes I used measured: .353 .51ua/.366 .66ua on my CCT tester. I will probably never use the "dirty boost" setting. Well, never say never heh, there may be an application at some point. I don't believe the "dirty boost" or "Grit" setting was on the original "Dane" pedal but was introduced in the "Heavy Water" was released, so props to @Robert for including that part of the circuit in the Fordable. Just because it doesn't work for me doesn't mean it won't work for someone else!

Probably my last build report for at least week or so as I'm off to the "other side of the pond" for a business trip tomorrow. One of these days I'm going to have to get little "travel kit" so I can build in my hotel room hahahah. (Actually, I'll be in Malaga, Spain, from what I understand it's a beautiful place and I plan to do some exploring with my free time.)

I used my last Tayda Hammered Copper enclosure. I fell in love with this color early on and built a bunch of pedals with it. To the point that I kinda got tired of seeing it heh. It's probably going to be a long time before I do another Hammered Copper build. Having said that, I still think it looks pretty sharp especially with cream knobs. (You may have noticed from my build reports that I favor cream knobs on just about any color enclosure:)) I used the oxblood-ish knobs for the boost circuit for some contrast.

View attachment 41817

Even though it's in a BB form factor, it's a relatively low component count build and went quite quickly. After messing around so much with the Ge diodes, I soldered the final set into the sockets to avoid going any deeper into the rabbit hole. I don't think there's a magic set of diodes that will change the basic nature of the "Grit" boost setting.

View attachment 41818

Schematic for the Fordable:

View attachment 41820
So, first time commenting/ posting. I'm a novice builder with only maybe a half dozen or so builds under my belt... I came into this with very little knowledge on circuitry and sorta felt my way through it and am starting to understand some of the basic concepts... (I install heat pumps, so I'm familiar with wiring and the function of circuits/switches in that regard)
ANYWAY... that being said, I'm simply surmising that the Diodes labeled "GE" are simply Germanium and the values of those don't inherently matter? One would imagine (if so) there would be more specific information?
Like I said, I'm only just now understanding the principles of building and have yet to dive deeper into how each value influences the circuit (such as adding a higher value cap to the input of, say, a Treble booster for more bass, or adding an On/On/On toggle to attain a selection of three different values for tone shaping.
I'm currently building the Dane clone and was kinda on hold awaiting build documents to post so I could finish it, so I decided to join the forum for some assistance
 
So, first time commenting/ posting. I'm a novice builder with only maybe a half dozen or so builds under my belt... I came into this with very little knowledge on circuitry and sorta felt my way through it and am starting to understand some of the basic concepts... (I install heat pumps, so I'm familiar with wiring and the function of circuits/switches in that regard)
ANYWAY... that being said, I'm simply surmising that the Diodes labeled "GE" are simply Germanium and the values of those don't inherently matter? One would imagine (if so) there would be more specific information?
Like I said, I'm only just now understanding the principles of building and have yet to dive deeper into how each value influences the circuit (such as adding a higher value cap to the input of, say, a Treble booster for more bass, or adding an On/On/On toggle to attain a selection of three different values for tone shaping.
I'm currently building the Dane clone and was kinda on hold awaiting build documents to post so I could finish it, so I decided to join the forum for some assistance
Welcome to the circus! You couldn't have landed in a better place, some super helpful folks around here. re: the Ge diodes, yes any Ge diode will do but most folks have their preferences of which kind. The main spec you'll be wanting to look for is forward voltage (Vf). There's really no "right or wrong" value but depending on the Vf they will sound a little different. Most folks will shoot for the "standard" set by the venerable Klon circuit (Vf ~.250mv-.350mv). Having said that, the Ge diodes in THIS particular circuit (The Dane) on the boost side is really subtle.

The real genius of the boost pedal is the "lows" control. It can add girth and depth without adding gain or changing the nature of the guitar sound.

Re: the toggle switching for the caps, I suggest posting that question on the "Modifications" forum. Lots of super knowledgeable folks always ready to help.
 
Thanks so much! That was kinda what I surmised from another thread I was reading about pcbs with diodes simply labeled "GE"... That they make little major difference in some circuits, and usually don't come into play until way up in the gain structure for clipping purposes...
Oh yeah, I might have worded that incorrectly on the toggle and cap thing. I meant that as in "I understand a few basic things, like raising values on certain caps can yield more low end".
My first build was a Treble Booster, and I kinda wished it had more tonal options... then I discovered the toggle mod with different cap values, tried it and actually did it successfully... As far as how circuits really work start to finish, it's all quite new to me and I'm trying to pick up on the concept... especially troubleshooting when a pedal won't work... Anyway, I'll have to dive further in so I can eventually get more proficient. My focus right now is getting better at successful builds before I start modding things, and identifying what components need changed to yield what results.
Thanks again!
 
Thanks so much! That was kinda what I surmised from another thread I was reading about pcbs with diodes simply labeled "GE"... That they make little major difference in some circuits, and usually don't come into play until way up in the gain structure for clipping purposes...
Oh yeah, I might have worded that incorrectly on the toggle and cap thing. I meant that as in "I understand a few basic things, like raising values on certain caps can yield more low end".
My first build was a Treble Booster, and I kinda wished it had more tonal options... then I discovered the toggle mod with different cap values, tried it and actually did it successfully... As far as how circuits really work start to finish, it's all quite new to me and I'm trying to pick up on the concept... especially troubleshooting when a pedal won't work... Anyway, I'll have to dive further in so I can eventually get more proficient. My focus right now is getting better at successful builds before I start modding things, and identifying what components need changed to yield what results.
Thanks again!
Another curiosity. Opposite the Germanium diodes, there's a pair of 1N747A diodes. I couldn't find these on Stompbox Parts and a few other sources... I finally took my chance on some I found on Amazon. I know there are plenty of fakes and forgeries on some components (J201's for example). Is there an equivalent I could look for and maybe solder in some sockets in the event these end up not being legitimate?
 
I bought mine from Mouser. I would check there for the 1N747As.
Awesome. Really looking forward to finishing this build and seeing just how great it is. I've been looking for a departure from the trusty Bluesbreaker and T.S overdrives.
Last week I finished a JHS VCR clone and it sounds killer. My first time encountering a Spin chip and oscillator crystals
 
Back
Top