What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

Feral Feline said:
Finally managed to squeak in some pedal-build related time, yesterday.

I absolutely LOVE the look of engine-turned alumin(i)um.
I've mentioned it before.

Before I work my way up to hand-scraping ala Bugatti, as mentioned in this post, I thought I'd take a turn on machining an enclosure.

So I searched online "how-to" and a few results popped up, one of which was this Hackaday post. I like Hackaday, so I didn't even bother to look at others. Hackaday's suggestion? Toothpaste and a pencil eraser. I've got proper polishing compounds and wheels, but...

Well I cheated a little and went with a mildly abrasive Dremel bit, though I did go with an old stale tube of Crest;
Using a cheap 1590N1 clone's lid as a test bed, I began the experimintations...

View attachment 69170View attachment 69171

Friend's garage is heated or I would've used my own drill-press/garage, I started off working "free-hand" ( though not as free as if I'd used my own Dremel instead of a friends drill-press), and it was quickly obvious some form of a line was needed more than just a 2B-pencil's:

View attachment 69173View attachment 69174

See the Gap(s) above, especially at 8 o'clock relative the screwhole? Too much goo on the bit to see where to start the next circle.
Then some more experimentation with varying degrees of pressure, led to the material being worn down to the shaft of the bit.
This was expected, but it came about much sooner than hoped for. It left some damaging grooves in the centre of these circles:

View attachment 69175


So I had to swap out the blue bit for a smaller white bit, of a different compound.
Tried it dry, without toothpaste and with toothpaste, the latter was only marginally better but in both cases the white bit wanted to grab the alloy, too much so.

So I broke out the 2B-pencil's eraser, as per the Hackaday article, the smallest circles yet...

View attachment 69176View attachment 69177


Well, as you can see, between the crescents on the left by the yellow tape and the scratchings on the right by the edge of the enclosure lid...
The eraser barely gets the job done. It would take forever with pencil erasers.

View attachment 69178





Here's the entire lid. I started at the top and worked my way down. It looks like it should be the other way 'round, starting off poorly at the bottom and figuring it out by the time I got to the top. Alas, this was NOT the case:

View attachment 69179


Here's what I learned:

1 — A gate/rail will be mandatory to get evenly spaced circles — eyeballing it isn't going to achieve the desired result.
2 — When working with toothpaste, keep a small tub of water and PLENTY of paper-towels/shop-towels handy. That stuff WILL get everywhere.
3 — With the right bit, only light pressure is needed and let the machine do the work.
4 — Have plenty of the right bit on hand; this test run KO'd the first bit in no time. I'll have to experiment further to find the right bit material.
5 — It's easy, but time consuming, and I still love the look; I'm very satisfied with my first ever proper machine-turning results.
6 — A method to get even spacing between swirls and rows/columns is needed (see 1 above).


Suggestions on how to label it once it's turned are welcomed. Sort of leaning to a Fairfield Circuitry stamped letters with ink backfill. Maybe laser-etching. Will test those both on the lid in future.

Looking forward to finishing turning the pedal.
Click to expand...
You read my mind! I have a couple I wanted to do that to, then stamp in letters for labels (drop filling those), then hitting the whole thing with Duplicolor Metalcast (transparent colors). But the points you mentioned about a fence etc for spacing is the one thing I am considering. Just wish I had access to a milling machine where I could use the slides to keep straight.

I also found these Velcro attached round sanding discs that are just under an inch diameter (28mm I believe for the metric folks), that I want to try. Hopeful.
 
Sorry to prolong this saga about one pedal enclosure but I wanted to offer up a cautionary note.

It’s super fun to have a really shiny enclosure. It looks cool. If you are using waterslide decals, it’s even better because waterslide decals LOVE super smooth surfaces. Film free decals, however, not so much – especially if you are so anal about the polishing as I am.

Long story short – I got the enclosure so smooth and mirror/like that when I applied the glue for the film decal, the glue actually beaded up on the surface and I could never get it to fully spread properly. I did my best and baked it but you can see a few places in the lower left corner did not adhere. Unfortunately, adding clearcoat made these spots even more visible so I’m just gonna go with the story that I was going for a wild West, shot all to hell look.

IMG_0851.jpeg
 
Giorfida said:
You read my mind! I have a couple I wanted to do that to, then stamp in letters for labels (drop filling those), then hitting the whole thing with Duplicolor Metalcast (transparent colors). But the points you mentioned about a fence etc for spacing is the one thing I am considering. Just wish I had access to a milling machine where I could use the slides to keep straight.

I also found these Velcro attached round sanding discs that are just under an inch diameter (28mm I believe for the metric folks), that I want to try. Hopeful.
Click to expand...
28mm seems HUGE for 1590N1. 1590 BB not as much. Are you going to overlap like Japanese woodcut-patterns?

Looking forward to hearing how you go about it and seeing the finished enclosure.



mkstewartesq said:
Sorry to prolong this saga about one pedal enclosure but I wanted to offer up a cautionary note.

It’s super fun to have a really shiny enclosure. It looks cool. If you are using waterslide decals, it’s even better because waterslide decals LOVE super smooth surfaces. Film free decals, however, not so much – especially if you are so anal about the polishing as I am.

Long story short – I got the enclosure so smooth and mirror/like that when I applied the glue for the film decal, the glue actually beaded up on the surface and I could never get it to fully spread properly. I did my best and baked it but you can see a few places in the lower left corner did not adhere. Unfortunately, adding clearcoat made these spots even more visible so I’m just gonna go with the story that I was going for a wild West, shot all to hell look.

View attachment 69206
Click to expand...
Your Six Gun is one of my most favourite of your builds.
 
Feral Feline said:
28mm seems HUGE for 1590N1. 1590 BB not as much. Are you going to overlap like Japanese woodcut-patterns?

Looking forward to hearing how you go about it and seeing the finished enclosure.




Your Six Gun is one of my most favourite of your builds.
Click to expand...
It will be a 125b size, so I have a little room And yes, I will overlap. Thinking by 50%, but may try 25% That’s what bottom of enclosures are for!
I’ll share pics for sure!
 
DGWVI said:
Just the tuning. Back in the late 90s, Fender released a Custom Shop line of 30" scale length 24 fret Teles and Strats called the Bajo Sexto, so I'm borrowing the name

I do want to do a 12 string 30" at some point, though
Click to expand...
Awesome! Figured those 90s Teles were what you were after.
I’ve been looking for ages for someone who could make 28” and 30” XII conversion necks. Really want to build a true electric Bajo Sexto (hence the 30”) and a 28” for a regular 12 string would be perfect for my preferred C-standard 12 string tuning
 
Bricksnbeatles said:
Awesome! Figured those 90s Teles were what you were after.
I’ve been looking for ages for someone who could make 28” and 30” XII conversion necks. Really want to build a true electric Bajo Sexto (hence the 30”) and a 28” for a regular 12 string would be perfect for my preferred C-standard 12 string tuning
Click to expand...

Dood Craft guitars might be able to hook you up. He does wacky stuff like that from time to time
 
DGWVI said:
And Bajo Sexto-ing this Squier Offset Telecaster
View attachment 69297
Click to expand...

I didn't have any VI strings on hand, except some wacky djent-oriented set that feels and sounds like wet poo. So, I strung it up with my preferred D'Addario EXL148s. The pickups are surprisingly nice sounding, so I probably won't be swapping those out for a while, and if/when I do I'll most likely cut a new guard and omit the neck pickup. Still have to fine tune the nut, but it's playing great already

The off-white color is kinda eh, but I don't hate it. And, from a comfort perspective, I'm kinda glad the Snakehead didn't work out, and this popped up as soon as it did
1000022556.jpg

Once I get the setup 100% dialed in, I'll do a demo
 
DGWVI said:
And Bajo Sexto-ing this Squier Offset Telecaster
Click to expand...
I've got one of those, but wish I'd just done the thing and gotten shell pink.

Haven't done bari or VI strings, but I've grown fond of C# tuning with power slinkys. Only one whole step from bari though : P which reminds me that I need to restring.

Have you thought about upgrade parts? I'm thinking I definitely want a six saddle bridge and maybe a P90 somewhere, but I love the stock bridge pickup. Decisions… kinda nice they route all of those bodies the same so they can be jazzmasters, jaguars, or whatever.
 
jessenator said:
I've got one of those, but wish I'd just done the thing and gotten shell pink.

Haven't done bari or VI strings, but I've grown fond of C# tuning with power slinkys. Only one whole step from bari though : P which reminds me that I need to restring.

Have you thought about upgrade parts? I'm thinking I definitely want a six saddle bridge and maybe a P90 somewhere, but I love the stock bridge pickup. Decisions… kinda nice they route all of those bodies the same so they can be jazzmasters, jaguars, or whatever.
Click to expand...

I had the CV shell pink VI for a minute. But, I love white guitars, and I'm trying to just stick to that aesthetic. It was also a lil more Pepto in person than this picture lets on
1000022557.png


So, far, I've just upgraded the saddles to compensated brass. But, I'm a fan of the three saddle bridges, and I've never had an issue with the compensated types.
Might swap out the knobs for some heavier brass 50s style, and maybe swap the plastic switch tip out while I'm at it.

I'll probably keep the bridge pickup, and maybe swap out the neck for an SD lipstick, but they really do sound great as is. Just has that perfect aggressive twang that Teles are known for

This didn't come with the neck or associated hardware, but I guess that's kind of an upgrade, too- DC Kunkle 30.25" conversion neck, set of Guyker branded locking Kluson-style type tuners, and a lil rolly string tree.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top