What's on the drawing board? 🎨🖌️

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Just about done with the faceplate redesign. IDK, I might swap the toob on the right with something else. I'll also go back and futz with type sizes, because I'm seeing some wonky things.

If I had one cosmetic critique on this amp's control layout, it's the spacing of the main power switch and light. Just makes for some awkward space. The boards inside are actually small and could be freely spaced out. Oh well. I guess another would be that the power step-down button and input jack aren't aligned. Oh well, do what I can with what I've got.
 
Excited to try this circuit. Spent most of my day yesterday working on the graphics after a little bit of a hiatus on designing pedal art. Feels good to be creative again.
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Thinking of adding a faux presence control by making R27 a 25K pot to control the low pass cut-off frequency before the master volume. Not sure where to put that yet though. Maybe side-mount it with one of these little guys:
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Edit: Simulated my idea in LTSpice and I'm not digging its effect on frequency response and volume. Will probably just build it as is.
 
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I decided I should put a tube chart on the cab for the 5F6-A 1959 Bassman I'm building. Pretty high prices on the web for a tiny 3.5"x3" piece of paper....

So I decided to draw one in Visio. Then I realized the vintage chart said 110v 50-60 hz, and mine is 120v 60hz. So I made another version with 120v 60hz.

The font is Century Gothic, bold, with a combination of compressed and expanded spacing as well as old style extra spaces between letters at the bottom. A real PITA. The tube matrix ended up being fairly easy, but I had to manually place each letter after setting up a guideline grid to 'snap and glue' to.

Since the picture I was using was slightly skewed I had to kinda feel my way in the dark in spots. But I think it came out pretty well and saved $30. I used a very very light brown/gray fill to 'age' the look. Total time was about 5 hours. The .jpg resolution was set to source so if printed it should come out to 3.5w x 3h if anyone needs one.....

and and and my .205" spade terminal connectors just arrived in the mail so I'm off to solder up my parallel wiring harness. The 5F6-A has 2 ohm output, so four 10" Jensen P10R-F's in 8 ohm need to be wired *before* I can test it!!!

Getting really really close to victory dance time. :-)

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Bricksnbeatles said:
Might as well just share at this point instead of teasing it.
XS drive and Episode Booster with an order switch.
I’m thinking of doing footswitches with LED washers instead of anodized dress nuts. Anyone have thoughts on that? Haven’t tried those light up foot switches yet, and not sure how the quality is
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What is "extra toggle" and why is it's text 2x the size of the other text?
 
jwin615 said:
What is "extra toggle" and why is it's text 2x the size of the other text?
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A feature in the old Lego Star Wars games from the early ‘00s that let you play as silly bonus characters. The pedal is called that bc it has soooo many toggle switches. The text is bigger bc 1) its the name so it should have more visual weight imo 2) game accuracy
 
Bricksnbeatles said:
A feature in the old Lego Star Wars games from the early ‘00s that let you play as silly bonus characters. The pedal is called that bc it has soooo many toggle switches. The text is bigger bc 1) its the name so it should have more visual weight imo 2) game accuracy
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Deep cut! Very fun.
 
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