jessenator
Well-known member
Now I've just got to figure out how to make this permanent on bare FR4…
What's on the drawing board? 🎨🖌️
- Thread starter dawson
- Start date
Cybercow
Well-known member
Just finished cleaning up the artwork for a short run of RatStortion pedals. It's a traced (then modified) Kokko Distortion pedal which seems to be a cross between a TS and a Rat. Originally based on RC4558, this uses an LM358 or LT1490 (both have as low as or lower slew rates as an LM308/µA308/OP07). But both the LM358 & the LT1490 are dual opamps. As opposed to the Rat. No soft-clipping on the opamps, but Rat-style hard clipping is used between them. The Gain pot is dual-gang for ramping up the gain on both halves of the opamp.
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
I totally forgot all about “Rat Fink“, which as a child of the mid 50s, I first saw around 1960 when I was four…
Cybercow
Well-known member
Yeah, Ed "Big Daddy" Roth was a favorite comic artist when I was young too. I thought Rat Fink would do nicely on the Ratstortion.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Been Working on a few Star Wars designs recently. Trying to get back to my bread-and-butter stuff. Here's the rough draft of one that I've been meaning to do for ages. One of three SW themed Muffs I plan on ordering in my next UV order (The other two are big secrets!). Probably gonna be a V9/Fran-era/NYC muff circuit. Tayda Grey enclosure. Not sure what I think about the grey text/outlines and grey 1400 knobs in place of black... Any Thoughts?
definitely think I should scale down the insignia badge colors.
Also trying to think of something to replace the π with. It was a piece of cake coming up with the imagery to put as the 'crest' or whatever you want to call it for the other two muff designs. This one has me scratching my head. Thought about maybe a similarly bulbous bubble-letter aurebesh character, but I wouldn't know what to pick. Can't think of any imperial symbols that would fit the space well.
definitely think I should scale down the insignia badge colors.
Also trying to think of something to replace the π with. It was a piece of cake coming up with the imagery to put as the 'crest' or whatever you want to call it for the other two muff designs. This one has me scratching my head. Thought about maybe a similarly bulbous bubble-letter aurebesh character, but I wouldn't know what to pick. Can't think of any imperial symbols that would fit the space well.
Last edited:
jjjimi84
Well-known member
In the early nineties, I remember falling in love with Ed Roth and that styleof artwork. So intense and over the top.
That gnat fuzzis tits.
Just so badass! Nice looking pedal!
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
No idea why it keeps formatting sideways when I upload it, but this right here is a quick draft to get the ideas flowing for a V2 (Late-70s) Opamp Muff Fuzz circuit (The PPCB Mini-Muffin) to complement the Grand Moff Pi that I posted above a few days ago. Took quite a bit of font manipulation and hand-tracing scans of old dry transfer sheets to get the beautiful alternate glyphs that ITC has sadly forgotten in their digitizations of their Serif Gothic typeface.
Super duper happy with the Moff Fuzz text. Everything else was done pretty quickly as a proof-of-concept, and needs a hell of a lot of work to get it where I want it. A shame Tayda doesn't offer 1590G2 enclosures, as that would really be the perfect size I think for this–– I love the 1590A for small builds like this, but it really gets quite cramped when designing graphics. I currently have 4pt type, which is just way way way too small.
The inspo:
Super duper happy with the Moff Fuzz text. Everything else was done pretty quickly as a proof-of-concept, and needs a hell of a lot of work to get it where I want it. A shame Tayda doesn't offer 1590G2 enclosures, as that would really be the perfect size I think for this–– I love the 1590A for small builds like this, but it really gets quite cramped when designing graphics. I currently have 4pt type, which is just way way way too small.
The inspo:
benny_profane
Well-known member
Bump it up to a 1590B and show off that type work!
jessenator
Well-known member
Because why not?
It's for this build:
My can of red bricked itself, so I got out the acrylics
It's for this build:
My can of red bricked itself, so I got out the acrylics
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Updated Inkscape to the latest version (from 1.1) and it's got a lot of new features that are super useful. Here's a grey version of the Muff Fuzz circuit with some refinements made to it. I have a few more changes I want to make, but I'm fairly happy with it. Grey version will be V.1 (60s transistor version, on a Fuzzdog pcb) and the black and orange version will be V.1 (70s Opamp version, on a PPCB Mini Muffin PCB)
I realized that i never accounted for an LED. not sure if I'll put it next to the footswitch, ot maybe see if I can track down some of the LED back plates that Small Bear used to sell (anyone have a CNC and want to start a business making those now that Small Bear dropped the ball?)
I realized that i never accounted for an LED. not sure if I'll put it next to the footswitch, ot maybe see if I can track down some of the LED back plates that Small Bear used to sell (anyone have a CNC and want to start a business making those now that Small Bear dropped the ball?)
Feral Feline
Well-known member
"This scale-dickering is pointless. Now Lord Simms will provide us with the location of the hidden Rebel fonts. We will then crush the Rebellion with one swift stomp"
benny_profane
Well-known member
Or fill the rectangular cutouts with epoxy and backlight them.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
It's just that the graphic is missing one blue and one yellow... Tarkin has a total of 12 LEDs on his chest.
Just had to get that off my chest.
Just had to get that off my chest.
Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Tarkin has the rank of Grand Moff, which is 6 blue on top, and 3 red and 3 yellow on the bottom. For a regular Moff, it’s been pretty inconsistent throughout various media (Moff Jerjerrod deviates from this, for example), but the commonly accepted sequence is 5 blue on top, and 3 red and 2 yellow on the bottom.
Since the muff fuzz circuit isn’t really a big muff, the Moff Fuzz isn’t really a Grand Moff.
Edit: example here, showing a promo pic of Tarkin from RotS, which takes place before he was promoted from Moff to Grand Moff
Oh don’t worry. I have something else planned just like that. Just really not doable with that many LEDs for a 1590A or even a 125B for that matter since the smallest rectangular LEDs I’ve found are 2x5mm.
Last edited:
RetiredUnit1
Well-known member
I was working on this last year when girlfriend from the 70's and my now fiance called me up out of the blue.
We had both lost our spouses; Hers ten years ago and mine four. Next thing you know we're selling her house and moving her in here and bla bla woof woof we're both happy as hell now. So now that "the honeymoon" period is over I opened up Visio a couple of nights ago to see where I was at in my design, and finished that off.
This is going to be my Black Faceplate Princeton Reverb build. I have already purchased all the parts and make my own turret/eyelet boards. Haven't decided if I'm going to build a cab or buy one tho.
So, fresh off the drawing board, my AA1164 wiring diagram! The pic below is a hot link to the postimg site where you can download a full resolution version if desired.
This has both a bias set, as well as bias balance. Since the tremolo is a power tube bias wobble instead of preamp, it's very important to get the bias set perfect for the tremolo to work properly. Super beefy 1/4" SS button head bolts with nylon center lock nuts for the chassis grounds. Backup diodes on the rectifier tube to prevent 'sploding caps should the tube short.
I changed the power caps to lower the cost from $40 for the multi-cap-can to about five bucks plus. In addition, this allows me to ground the preamp power caps with the preamp grounds which is not possible with the multi-cap-can. This should reduce the hum/buzz to a very low level.
I drew all the components which is actually fairly easy just by using a caliper to measure all the dimensions.
Oh, and a pic of Loraine from the 70's that I overlaid with a pic of my flag on the front porch. 50+ years later neither of us looks nearly as good as we did in the 70's lol, so this is the only pic she'll allow me to post.
We had both lost our spouses; Hers ten years ago and mine four. Next thing you know we're selling her house and moving her in here and bla bla woof woof we're both happy as hell now. So now that "the honeymoon" period is over I opened up Visio a couple of nights ago to see where I was at in my design, and finished that off.
This is going to be my Black Faceplate Princeton Reverb build. I have already purchased all the parts and make my own turret/eyelet boards. Haven't decided if I'm going to build a cab or buy one tho.
So, fresh off the drawing board, my AA1164 wiring diagram! The pic below is a hot link to the postimg site where you can download a full resolution version if desired.
This has both a bias set, as well as bias balance. Since the tremolo is a power tube bias wobble instead of preamp, it's very important to get the bias set perfect for the tremolo to work properly. Super beefy 1/4" SS button head bolts with nylon center lock nuts for the chassis grounds. Backup diodes on the rectifier tube to prevent 'sploding caps should the tube short.
I changed the power caps to lower the cost from $40 for the multi-cap-can to about five bucks plus. In addition, this allows me to ground the preamp power caps with the preamp grounds which is not possible with the multi-cap-can. This should reduce the hum/buzz to a very low level.
I drew all the components which is actually fairly easy just by using a caliper to measure all the dimensions.
Oh, and a pic of Loraine from the 70's that I overlaid with a pic of my flag on the front porch. 50+ years later neither of us looks nearly as good as we did in the 70's lol, so this is the only pic she'll allow me to post.
Last edited:
