FERAL's imPERFect LAYOUTS

Yes, once breadboarded, you can do whatever you want — in fact, you can do MORE because you're not constrained — for instance you can tinker with a Muff and swap out the tone-stack for a Fender BASS MIDS TREBLE tone-stack far more easily on a breadboard than trying to mock-up the Fender tone-stack on a socketed PCB, which would be a nightmare.

Nonetheless, for me it's easier to swap out component-values on a socketed Muff PCB if that's the only thing I'm messing with — component values — since I'm trying dozens upon dozens of variations from Kit Rae's Web-site.

A Rat PCB, on the other hand — there just aren't as many variations that I'm interested in on a Rat. So it makes no sense to me to socket a Rat PCB, I'd rather just breadboard the Rat variant.

With the socketed EMEXAR, it was worth it to me to devote a PCB to sockets. Variants of several circuits have been explored on it, in addition to the ones mentioned in my previous post, there are multiple ways of tweaking EACH of the following as well:
Ross
Blue Clipper
Boosta Grande
Beta
Red Lights
Adamu
Wampler mods
White Light
Zoom
Janus
Drivestortion
Liquid Drive
Sole Pressure
Quantum Mystic
... several more I'm forgetting.

Before I even had a breadboard, I socketed an entire GPCB EMEXAR PCB.
It still gets used as I'd rather grab it than lay out a breadboard for a variant of that circuit — the layout of the socketed PCB is already done for you. There you go, that's the advantage over breadboarding a circuit, the layout is already done for you.


Remember this thread?
owlexifry

Post in thread 'Muff clipping diodes & LEDs'

Feral Feline said:
Well I kicked myself harder for not breadboarding sooner — it was easy-peasy, once past the initial mental hurdle, the learning curve is super-swift.
Click to expand...
same.
cannot be overstated how valuable and worthwhile breadboarding is.
and not only does it help you learn and explore circuits/mods a lot quicker, it gives you the option to try out and play a circuit that you might not normally care for or commit to building. really opens things up.
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If I'm only going to be experimenting with clipping-diodes on a circuit, why breadboard it? Just build the PCB and socket the clipping diodes and IF, and only if I manage to settle on one set of diodes over all the optionitis that exists, I can still solder the Chosen Ones in place.


At least for me, I can SEE what's going on with a socketed PCB better than I can see what's going on with a breadboarded layout;
maybe that's because of a reduction of visual information, labelling on the PCB... whatever. 🤷‍♂️


c8efc70d-f0de-433f-a25a-6f652bce94f5-jpeg.69736


Emexar 250 socket city.JPG
☝️Nice and neat, organised, can easily follow the signal flow...

versus...


Chaos:
a1ee28df-b9d9-457e-888e-6880d878a359-jpeg.24359


😹

e79d3e2f-4ff3-435e-8975-d6a702e6f3cf-jpeg.24307


Shoulda "breadboarded the one above on my fully socketed MUFF PCB...

img_3051-jpg.1084159




A fully socketed PCB IS a breadboard, of sorts.

With it, I stick the populated-socketed-PCB in an enclosure and take it over to my friend-with-the-golden-ears for further circuit tweaking, and if he still gigged, he could take it to the gig and try it in the heat of Sonic-Battle...


Now...
...Back to perf layouts.
 
Im assuming that GPCB Roto-Tone board is a mod board. I have one of those and they definitely come in handy even while using a breadboard. I can keep playing and turn the rotary switch to instantly hear the different in components.
 
Feral Feline said:
Before I even had a breadboard, I socketed an entire GPCB EMEXAR PCB.
It still gets used as I'd rather grab it than lay out a breadboard for a variant of that circuit — the layout of the socketed PCB is already done for you. There you go, that's the advantage over breadboarding a circuit, the layout is already done for you.
Click to expand...
i can see your point.
it-seems-logical-spock.gif

but, have you ever had a set sockets fail on you?
i used to love sockets and thought they were the bees knees, but since i’ve had a few of them fail (after repeated use, in similar testing scenarios) i kinda try and avoid them where possible.
(because sockets will punish you for using thiccc leads)

alright time for a perf layout 😛
IMG_8438.jpeg
 
NOICE!

What's the layout for?



Never had any sockets fail me yet, but that's just a matter of time.

Also, anything that's super-socketed is not going on the gig-board, but is related to experimentation — once the desired results are established a fresh board is used to solder the components in. Also, same for socketed diodes — after a while you figure out which you like best and you just solder in the components = less chance of failure.

I'm not gigging/touring/otherwise... 😑
 
Yet another lazy post, ie a layout I've already done and posted elsewhere on the forum...

General Guitar Gadgets' Leslie-like sim simile sim sim yessiree:
4-knob (left) and a 5-knob (right) — a very early effort and as per usual, it's unverified.
weslie-—-perf-of-gggs-leslie-sim-png.88534


I should definitely revisit this, get rid of the 1N4001 to GND, and put a 1N5817 in series... Maybe even try again to get rid of that jumper.
 
What's better about a series 1N5817 vs 1N4001 to ground? Or is that just a preference. Used to see 1N4001s everywhere but not so much these days
 
I think it's just design preference. They both accomplish the same goal (polarity protection), but go about it in different ways. I think any schottky diode will work there since they all have very low forward voltage.
 
I read somewhere about how the series way is just slightly better than going to ground.


Going to ground, some juice may still get to the circuit, whereas if the series diode blows, nothing gets through.

If ever I manage to come across the properly explained details again, I'll post them here.


It's kind of like 6v vs 12v in cars. There was nothing wrong with 6v per se, just that 12v gives you a little more cranking power to start the engine, — small details. Things change. We used to rent VHS movies from Blawk Bluster, now we stream them .... movies haven't changed.

Used to be bypasses didn't include LED-indication. Pretty much mandatory now.
 
The parallel 4001 is just old school. How often were they managing to plug batteries in wrong way around? It’ll work if you accidentally plug the wrong polarity in—for a moment. Won’t be long until it cooks and ain’t protecting shit. Series schottkey can handle way more amperage than necessary to run your average pedal. You lose less than 1/2 volt, and I’m pretty sure you’re not even hitting that upper limit til you get close to a full amp.
 
Feral Feline said:
...If ever I manage to come across the properly explained details again, I'll post them here.
...
Click to expand...
mckillacuddy said:
The parallel 4001 is just old school. How often were they managing to plug batteries in wrong way around? It’ll work if you accidentally plug the wrong polarity in—for a moment. Won’t be long until it cooks and ain’t protecting shit. Series schottkey can handle way more amperage than necessary to run your average pedal. You lose less than 1/2 volt, and I’m pretty sure you’re not even hitting that upper limit til you get close to a full amp.
Click to expand...


Boomshakalah!
 
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