What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

I got to practice carbon repair on a frame because of my own mistake. I got an aliexpress carbon frame based on the early 2020's Bianchi Infinito.

it was wrapped so tightly I had to use a knife to remove the bubble wrap and I scratched the finish on the fork. I had to sand that down, spray a French flag graphic and polish.

Next problem was the bottom bracket. It called for a bb386 which is pushed in. My press tool made short work if that but the bearings did not spin freely at all. I thought maybe the bearings were gunked up so i tapped them out to check. Theya were fine. So i tried to fit them back in. Turns out the frame bottom bracket shell was too tight and the pressure on the sleeve prevented the free spinning of the bearings. I wish I realized that because one crank too many of the press tool cracked the frame.

Fortunately I was able to repair it just fine but it also necessitated the painting of another graphic to cover up.

SRAM Rival AXS wireless groupset 12 speed

Carbon wheels

Continental ultrasport III tires. This is my smoothest riding bike by far. It feels great!

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Didn’t except it, but NGD it come.

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It’s an unbranded mystery guitar bought from local collector. Dunno if it’s 70-80s factory made or just some hobbyists piece of unfinished work, neither did seller. Some details on huitar fit to Hoshino(Ibanez) and Matsumoko(Aria) Gakki, but still bit too crude to be from 80s. I tried 20 different guitars around lawsuit era before got this on my hands and I knew I want it. Neck profile felt home and whole guitar just felt right, even it has some fixing and finishing to do.

Things to fix:
-neck angle spacer to lover crazy high action
-neck sits slight downeard pointing so sanding upper plane of neck pocket needed
-new tailpiece
-etc more to come xD


Any suggestions about how to go finishing raw wood on this and maybe getting that grain middly pop up some more?
 
I've done Tru-oil on almost all my builds. It looks great and is fairly easy and fool proof to apply. Amazon has it usually.
Another vote for Tru-oil. I've used it for a bunch of wood finishing and re-finishing and get great results as a clumsy amateur. I lightly buff with 00 steel wool between the first couple of coats after they dry, and then very lightly with 0000 after the last to get the hand rubbed oil looking finish.
 
Any suggestions about how to go finishing raw wood on this and maybe getting that grain middly pop up some more?
I don’t know if you need to sand more, but maybe a thin mist of water on the raw wood and sand. It might help the grain a smidge, but not 100% sure.

Tru oil is good. If you feel confident, brushing lacquer works (nitro, etc). Just put on a thin layer, let it sit until it sets, then add another until your happy. Gently wet sand and steel wool until you like the polish.
 
Didn’t except it, but NGD it come.

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It’s an unbranded mystery guitar bought from local collector. Dunno if it’s 70-80s factory made or just some hobbyists piece of unfinished work, neither did seller. Some details on huitar fit to Hoshino(Ibanez) and Matsumoko(Aria) Gakki, but still bit too crude to be from 80s. I tried 20 different guitars around lawsuit era before got this on my hands and I knew I want it. Neck profile felt home and whole guitar just felt right, even it has some fixing and finishing to do.

Things to fix:
-neck angle spacer to lover crazy high action
-neck sits slight downeard pointing so sanding upper plane of neck pocket needed
-new tailpiece
-etc more to come xD


Any suggestions about how to go finishing raw wood on this and maybe getting that grain middly pop up some more?
It definitely has that 70s Matsumoku vibe about it but al the ones I have seen like that have a maple neck-thru. And never seen one that wasn’t finished
 
USB-C to 15V @ 2A PD trigger module, w/ added barrel plug to allow running my cheap Iniu power bank into a Cioks C4 pedalboard supply. The included case was very basic and I added Nomex insulation and some silicone goop to make things a little more real.
Very cool! I’ve got a couple similar boards from adafruit on my project pile right now, destined for the same use case. The whole PD concept is so tempting to use everywhere, but as with all things USB-C, it seems, erm, unevenly applied. At the very least it’d be nice if manufacturers could label their products with more legible text so I didn’t have to get out a flashlight and squint every time I plug something in.

Will be curious to hear if you run into any issues along the way!
 
Very cool! I’ve got a couple similar boards from adafruit on my project pile right now, destined for the same use case. The whole PD concept is so tempting to use everywhere, but as with all things USB-C, it seems, erm, unevenly applied. At the very least it’d be nice if manufacturers could label their products with more legible text so I didn’t have to get out a flashlight and squint every time I plug something in.

Will be curious to hear if you run into any issues along the way!
Since I have five of these things I intend to try a lot of different implementations, including various standalone configurations. The Cioks C4 is super cool, but all the better if I don't need it. I have a little 30W Iniu dual port wall charger too, if I could eke out two isolated outputs at 9 and 15V using that it'd be a pretty slick compact power supply solution.
 
Working on the GE tester.

This'll let me power up 4 at a time. That'll mean that I can let them stabilize for a few minutes each, and greatly speed up my testing of what I've got on hand. A rotary switch routes the leads from the panel volt meter to each transistor 's collector resistance. Each one set by a 2.4k resistor with a 100 ohm multi-turn trimpot in series to make 2.472k ohms.

A 5vdc regulator feeds the panel volt meter. A Lm317 allows me to dial in as close as I'm reasonably going to get to a perfect 9vdc power supply. I'm gonna feed it with 12vdc to give that adjustable regulator a bit of room to breathe.

Each transistor has a SPDT switch wired in series with a 2.2M resistor to the base. Basic open/close circuit. A 4PDT handles juggling +/- on both the power supply and the meter leads for PNP and NPN testing.

Seemed like such a simple idea when I first came up with it. Execution is a bit more difficult than I had envisioned, but it's coming along. Ain't done yet. Little bit left.

Finally got my CNC back up and running. Carved through this enclosure like a beast. Currently building up a fluid dial pendant so I don't have to rely on the fiddly touchscreen controls so much.


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Pull the pickups or tape them off really well if using steel wool. It will kill pickups.
Good catch, but steel wool vontinues keeping its place in the kitchen and away from guitars. Indeed I DID file string slots wider PUs in place, but luckily material wasn’t ferromagnetic. :D
It definitely has that 70s Matsumoku vibe about it but al the ones I have seen like that have a maple neck-thru. And never seen one that wasn’t finished
Yesterdays search-loophole lead me to L6-S replicas/copies labeled as Crimar(Ibanez), Rowland and Encore, which were made modt probably in Matsumoko factory. Small four bolt neck plate matches to former too. Despite intensive browsing didn’t find anything alike with a figured top.
I don’t know if you need to sand more, but maybe a thin mist of water on the raw wood and sand. It might help the grain a smidge, but not 100% sure.

Tru oil is good. If you feel confident, brushing lacquer works (nitro, etc). Just put on a thin layer, let it sit until it sets, then add another until your happy. Gently wet sand and steel wool until you like the polish.
Sanding sides of body def needed. Found a recipe for tru oil 1/3 polyvarnish (non-water based!), 1/3 linseed/china/etc oil and 1/3 turpentine.
 
Don’t know anything about tru oil, but I’ve had good luck using spar varnish, linseed oil and turp in thirds as a wood finish.
Are you referring to polyurethane based or made with vintage specs (boiled oil etc)? I found 2-component spar varnish from nearby HW store, guess single component is preferred in this application.
 
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