What's on the drawing board? 🎨🖌️

Whilst waiting for several enclosures to be finished their respective custom paint/drill jobs, finally getting around to finishing up my own Dipthonizer (modified/augmented) circuit, (from Madbean), and completed the artwork for the enclosure. Here's a Photoshop mockup of the finished pedal . . .

AF_Honey_Dripper_Mockup_v01.png
 
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Came down with covid {{again}} three weeks ago and did not feel like getting up. Took about three weeks to draw this and HEY I feel soooooo much better. It is 100% to scale, down to the 16th of an inch. It's a Hiwatt DR504 which is what David Gilmour uses and I added dual bias pots and test points. Not tested yet.

This is a direct link to the highest resolution. (you have to click the mouse to flip between - view and + view)

This is a hot link showing a lower res pic but if you click on it you can click the DOWNLOAD button if you want a high res copy.


This is the not to scale drawing by Mark Huss that I used to build the six DR504's I made back around 2008ish. This is actually version 2 which he updated in 2009.


Mark is 'da man' when it comes to Hiwatt history. His site https://mhuss.com/
 
Something new I'm trying out in Photoshop. Still undecided which way to go. Maybe I'll do both.

View attachment 104903

View attachment 104904
I like it better on white. If you go with white, the outlines around the lettering could maybe be reduced - especially on boost and sustain, they’re kinda eating the letters. Maybe because I’m looking on my phone though? That fancy shading looks cool up close.
 
I like it better on white. If you go with white, the outlines around the lettering could maybe be reduced - especially on boost and sustain, they’re kinda eating the letters. Maybe because I’m looking on my phone though? That fancy shading looks cool up close.
Thanks for the tip. I've updated the mockup. I like it better too.
 
Thanks for the tip. I've updated the mockup. I like it better too.

Did the update spread out the control labels a bit?

I'd move the "SUSTAIN" below its knob a little left;
and move the "BOOST" below its knob a little right.

The white version's IN/OUT/9V labels need to mirror the black version's locations, ie down a bit so they're not sitting on the border.


Another vote for the White-BG — the black looks good, but the white looks GREAT!
 
Did the update spread out the control labels a bit?

I'd move the "SUSTAIN" below its knob a little left;
and move the "BOOST" below its knob a little right.

The white version's IN/OUT/9V labels need to mirror the black version's locations, ie down a bit so they're not sitting on the border.


Another vote for the White-BG — the black looks good, but the white looks GREAT!
Thanks! And for the tips too. I moved the jack labels onto the border intentionally. It's still in evaluation mode. ;)
 
For my Rotary Chorus build. Phthalo green (blue) and white with deoxazine purple and ultramarine blue (red) over top. I just put a water based poly clear coat on and should be able to put it together shortly (in two months)
Qdr9kxs.jpeg
 
I succeeded in getting the circuit board down to 13 inches from 14 1/2 for this black face deluxe reverb layout I’m working on.

Got the chassis and face plates on Friday, g10 epoxy board gets pretty expensive when buying in lengths above 1 foot and I managed to find a drone DIY seller on eBay that had 13 inch lengths…

Still need to blueprint the chassis into Visio before completing the layout Blackface Deluxe Reverb AB763.jpeg
 
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I succeeded in getting the circuit board down to 13 inches from 14 1/2 for this black face deluxe reverb layout I’m working on.

Got the chassis and face plates on Friday, g10 epoxy board gets pretty expensive when buying in lengths above 1 foot and I managed to find a drone DIY seller on eBay that had 13 inch lengths…

Still need to blueprint the chassis into Visio before completing the layout
I'd love to build a Bassman someday. I put a Scumback speaker in my Deluxe Reverb so I have the Jensen that came out of it kicking around looking for a home
 
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