Old Fashioned (Skreddy/Animals Major Overdrive)

MattG

Well-known member
Build Rating
5.00 star(s)
Here's my take on the @HamishR & @Chuck D. Bones collaboration, the Old Fashioned, which is a tweaked Animals/Skreddy Major Overdrive. It's a YASZ (Yet Another Skreddy Fuzz), based on the same topology as the Lunar Module (PPCB Aldrin Fuzz), Screwdriver, Hybrid Fuzz Driver, etc. My long-running favorite YASZ is Chuck's Modified Animals Diamond Peak (also sold as the Skreddy Hybrid Drive, not to be confused with the Hybrid Fuzz Driver). I actually bought the COTS Animals Major Overdrive many years ago with the intent of tracing it, but never got around to it. My laziness paid off, because @HamishR did the work for me!

Like the Churl of Toan I posted last night, the actual effect doesn't have a lot of components, and the majority of the PCB is cluttered with the overkill features I like to include: P-MOS reverse polarity protection, extra PSU filtering, buffered electrical bypass. Since this is a transistor-based circuit, instead of using an opamp for the buffer, I opted for a bootstrapped NPN BJT (i.e. the Cornish buffer). I didn't make room for the RF filter that I used on the Churl of Toan.

For the "money" transistors Q2 and Q3, I used 2n3903 with HFEs of 140 and 94, respectively. The actual Major OD that HamishR traced, as well as the one I never got around to tracing, used 2n5172 transistors. I have some 2n5172 that I got from AliExpress, and their HFEs are all over the map. It's possible this is the nature of these particular transistors, or it's possible I have fakes or factory seconds, given the source. Neither Mouser USA nor DigiKey stock these. In other YASZ designs, we use low-gain silicon or germanium transistors for Q2/Q3. @MichaelW used 2n3904 in his Old Fashioned build (per this comment). I actually used 2n3903 because I mis-remembered what Mike used - I only now realize he used 2n304. Whatever, it sounds great with 2n3903!

Everything worked perfectly on first power-up. I put it side-by-side with my Hard Rock Pinnacle (i.e. modified Diamond Peak), which has been on my board longer than any other overdrive, by a huge margin. It's such a great circuit. To my ears, the Major OD has a more distinct mid-emphasis. I wouldn't call the Diamond Peak transparent, but to my ears, it is more EQ-neutral than the Major OD. The actual distortion character seems smoother in the Major OD, where it's a bit raspier in the Diamond Peak. The core topology of these circuits is essentially a treble booster pushing a fuzz, but it's really versatile in terms of voicing. With the gain of the Major OD rolled back below 10:00 or so, it actually gets in the neighborhood of a Bluesbreaker/Prince of Tone voice (I noticed this because I was testing it right next to my just-built Churl of Toan). With single coils, using similar drive levels, the Major OD is a bit noisier than the Diamond Peak.

The obvious question is, which do I like better, the Diamond Peak or the Major OD? Too soon to tell! The Diamond Peak is a long-time favorite, it's going to be hard for me to replace it. But I really like the Major OD too, it feels familiar but has a different-enough vibe that I might rock for a while.

I have spare PCBs, I'm happy to send one to anyone who asks, just DM me.

Edit: I forgot to mention: the enclosure was last year's limited-edition St Pat's day green enclosure from @StompBoxParts. I'm a year late, but right on time for this enclosure! I used a Sunnyscopa waterslide decal for the graphics. It took two tries, as I mentioned here. I still didn't get 100% transfer on the second try, but I had basically zero transfer on the first try. The little bit that didn't transfer gives it a bit of a relic'ed look.
 

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Looks great! Glad you got your pcb ready. Not gonna lie I’ve been wanting to build this for the longest but all that extra circuitry looks a little intimidating!
 
Looks great! Glad you got your pcb ready. Not gonna lie I’ve been wanting to build this for the longest but all that extra circuitry looks a little intimidating!

It's basically just more parts. It actually makes the build quicker/easier in my opinion, as having the bypass mechanism integrated into the actual effect PCB means less off-board wiring (which I always find tedious and overly time-consuming). Wire up the I/O jacks, power and the footswitch, and you're done! Even simpler if you use the JST headers like did (for power and the switch). The electrical bypass uses CD40106 and CD4053 integrated circuits, which are current production, readily-available, cheap parts.

Wiring it for true bypass with a 3PDT switch is doable, i't just a matter of identifying the PedalPCB "IN GND SW OUT"-equivalent points on the PCB. If you do that, it would eliminate roughly half the parts (maybe slightly more). @MichaelW did exactly that with a different PCB I sent him. Looks weird, but works just fine!
 
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