Recent content by Alan W

Try it in the open, but in as dark a room as possible. Chunk some chords, and watch the LEDs.

To put this (exact component selection) in historical perspective, especially early on, some companies were very loose with selection. If they could get a good price on a part that was a bit off spec, then that run used that part. This is one reason why certain era pedals are more desired...

And you really need it in a case to test it (aurally)—the circuit relies on a photo-resistor that is reacting to the LED that is mounted right next to it, so it needs darkness to have a sense of how much signal there is. Take close up shots of the board, from both sides if possible, and post...

that makes sense, but now that it's unmounted, use the continuity tester to confirm it. Those long bars have to be the poles.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQ6XTW0/?coliid=I2RTEPQ6BMN86M&colid=2FOW4E7GBHA7N&psc=0&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I put colored heat shrink bands on cables for everything that’s not 9 volt. Reverse polarity gets yellow, 12 v blue, 15 green, and 18 red. But I love this idea!

A step that I take when populating boards is to pull the leads taut (at an angle) and then trim them to about 1/4 inch long. This serves mainly to reduce the extra wire, which is just a heat sink, and also makes it easier to get the iron tip at the attitude I want it at with less forest in the...

That’s what I was going to post. I almost go out of my way not to use it, but when I finally concede, it makes it easy. I ended up getting several of the different sized tips for it; the longer ones are a little less effective, but on a tighter board are a good bit easier to get in place...

Since you want to keep this as simple as possible (in terms of controls), I think the first decision is which comes first—boost or chorus? I’d experiment with two pedals, and decide that. Potentially, assuming you’re not planning on original circuits, you could also use these, via where you’ve...

I like to use the multi turn type for transistor biasing, somehow it seems easier to nail it. For tuning LFOs it doesn’t seem to make as much difference. Can’t comment on comparing their drift. But I don’t think the drift would come from the screw slightly turning, so can’t see glue as a viable...

Another solid core Teflon user here. I bought big spools of navy surplus in 18, 20, 22, and 24 gauge sometimes in the 80s, and just have small amounts left—a lot of it went into braiding interconnects for stereo and studio stuff. I have a bunch of different cutters for it, but my most used is to...

My first thought was a tip that’s not mirror shiny. But a bad thermostat could also be the culprit. I don’t use lead free, basically I wash my hands when I’m done. I also use an exhaust fan for the rosin fumes—lead doesn’t vaporize until well beyond what your soldering iron can heat it to, so...

yes, it should be. that P is the important signifier; I think it originally meant that it was in a plastic, as opposed too metal, housing, but that's by memory, which I truly don't trust... There must be a rational reason why the pinout was reversed.

This has gotten me several times!

Great work, and I’ll be interested in a board also! Curious as to why you went 15 rather than 18 volt.