Recent content by Alan W

Sometimes if I’ve vertically reconfigured a knob location I’ll use a longer legged version to allow for the move. If it’s more than that allows, I just add wires. I’ve also specifically ordered long lead pots if the shorter lead ones are not available, but it’s finicky trimming them to length.

If this is for short, internal runs, you can make your own—I started doing this because it was easier than dealing with unraveling braided, and I prefer solid anyway. Here’s a link that describes my process: https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/making-custom-short-pieces-of-coax.15150/

Looks like partial acid etching. I used to get a lot of this stuff done. From this company: https://www.etchnow.com/our-work But, it’s expensive. If you can gang up a bunch of plates into one sheet, the per plate cost would come down. But still, expensive! However, the detail and crispness of...

I still haven’t built mine (have been not buliding any pedals until I decorate the pile of raw pedals I have)—but am wondering how many volts you’re using? The 2023 design can go up to 18v, which typically gives you greater headroom than lower voltages. Might be worth a try.

If you only have one of the jacks touching the housing, does it still stay lit?

I really fall into this trap: I like a specific tone signature, and if I’m not careful, modify many pedals to this signature; then, I wonder why they all sound so similar!

I tend to throw these on power tubes and preamp tubes (that aren’t in the metal can surrounds). I have bags of different sizes that I get at McMasters. Even if the tube doesn’t seem to rattle, the glass most likely (see how unscientific I can become, fast?) vibrates at some sympathetic...

Maybe I made a mistake on mine, but my sag is at maximum sag (lowest voltage) when fully clockwise.

I second the Equalizer suggestion. Besides doing what you need with the frequencies, you can also use it as a subtle boost—I think the main issue though is trying to maximize whatever clean headroom you can get out of it; when I think of Blackface v the earlier Fender variants, it's largely a...

I’ll add on to @Feral Feline; after you’ve clipped off those wires, you may have more luck with getting rid of the blob, since there aren’t as many heat sinks (aka wires) stuck to it. Before you buy a new tip, those little tins of tip cleaner paste really work well.

If you can put a non-cushioned pad under the paper in your sander, it will sand the high points first, getting you a flatter surface. Most sanders have rubbery pads that you attach the paper to, and that sponginess will also press down on lower spots, so that you have to sand through more...

The second "op amp" is part of the power supply, not in the audio stream. It's a "voltage doubler"—I think in this case it's used so that there is a 27V differential between rails—far more swing than you'd get with 9V. And the op amp that is in the circuit is one that really appreciates more...

Absolutely wet sand. And put the sandpaper on a flat surface, and move the pedal over it, rather than the other way around. If you’ve got the paper range, I’d do 180 for a few wipes, then 240 and finish with 400, unless the paper is loading with paint sludge (which the water should keep at bay)...

I’m old enough to remember when “Christmas Lawn Decoration” meant there was a handy Dad with a saber saw, and enough extra time to design (or scale up the annual Popular Mechanics designs), get plywood, etc. What surprised me is that this is in my general neighborhood, on a street I routinely...

From the component side of the circuit board, the signal comes in at the left and goes out on the right. Of course, I tend to overcomplicate things!