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And it’s that gain quality that is so enticing! I don’t think I’ve tried this in the everything at noon; will do so this afternoon. I typically have set positions for each guitar with this.

they are standard to the extent that there are several sizes of stems (and matching sockets) but within each size they seem to be standardized—at least in terms of the way the stems fit in. Ther actual wheel sizes could be different, usually there will be a spec that gives you the ht. from the...

One of my favorite pedals. I generally agree about not liking IC boosts, but running in 18v and with OPA 2134 chips it has a bit of a brownish flavor that I end up loving.

If it can work as well as they claim, especially chaining them, then this will be very interesting. I understand the SOM package, but for DIY a regular DIP release would also make sense.

I haven't looked at the schematic—so I'm not sure if you need all the poles on the 3P2T switch to go from 1 pot to the other. (I'd think if the pots get a ground to one of their terminals, that wouldn't need to be switched, it could be left on . But If this is wrong, and you actually need all...

Only on occasion, and typically the built in tank on my Allen Encore. It has a reverb tone control, which I think helps. I did build a Gravitation, and have used it, on low settings, and it’s okay. My favorite pedal reverb is the Free the Tone Ambisonic, especially “plate” which doesn’t sound...

If you had “hum cancelling” in the middle position before, then the shielding won’t add much. I still have (and occasionally use) the SX P bass (30 inch) that I got my son when he was 11 and his friends were getting electric guitars. (Since I had electric guitars he wanted to be different, and...

Try it in the open, but in as dark a room as possible. Chunk some chords, and watch the LEDs.

To put this (exact component selection) in historical perspective, especially early on, some companies were very loose with selection. If they could get a good price on a part that was a bit off spec, then that run used that part. This is one reason why certain era pedals are more desired...

And you really need it in a case to test it (aurally)—the circuit relies on a photo-resistor that is reacting to the LED that is mounted right next to it, so it needs darkness to have a sense of how much signal there is. Take close up shots of the board, from both sides if possible, and post...

that makes sense, but now that it's unmounted, use the continuity tester to confirm it. Those long bars have to be the poles.

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I put colored heat shrink bands on cables for everything that’s not 9 volt. Reverse polarity gets yellow, 12 v blue, 15 green, and 18 red. But I love this idea!

A step that I take when populating boards is to pull the leads taut (at an angle) and then trim them to about 1/4 inch long. This serves mainly to reduce the extra wire, which is just a heat sink, and also makes it easier to get the iron tip at the attitude I want it at with less forest in the...

That’s what I was going to post. I almost go out of my way not to use it, but when I finally concede, it makes it easy. I ended up getting several of the different sized tips for it; the longer ones are a little less effective, but on a tighter board are a good bit easier to get in place...

Since you want to keep this as simple as possible (in terms of controls), I think the first decision is which comes first—boost or chorus? I’d experiment with two pedals, and decide that. Potentially, assuming you’re not planning on original circuits, you could also use these, via where you’ve...

I like to use the multi turn type for transistor biasing, somehow it seems easier to nail it. For tuning LFOs it doesn’t seem to make as much difference. Can’t comment on comparing their drift. But I don’t think the drift would come from the screw slightly turning, so can’t see glue as a viable...

Another solid core Teflon user here. I bought big spools of navy surplus in 18, 20, 22, and 24 gauge sometimes in the 80s, and just have small amounts left—a lot of it went into braiding interconnects for stereo and studio stuff. I have a bunch of different cutters for it, but my most used is to...

My first thought was a tip that’s not mirror shiny. But a bad thermostat could also be the culprit. I don’t use lead free, basically I wash my hands when I’m done. I also use an exhaust fan for the rosin fumes—lead doesn’t vaporize until well beyond what your soldering iron can heat it to, so...

yes, it should be. that P is the important signifier; I think it originally meant that it was in a plastic, as opposed too metal, housing, but that's by memory, which I truly don't trust... There must be a rational reason why the pinout was reversed.