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Well, I learned a new word this morning😉 But, my apologies. Images are important. I’ve just decided I’m going to make waffles for breakfast. I’ll try to remember to post a trigger warning before posting any gut shots. Hopefully, you can imagine a hot buttermilk pecan waffle sitting on a plate...

And I did it a few years ago with a major (for me) restocking order; I got the wrong series of 1/4 watt from Mouser (my mistake) and they were half watt sized. I got very good at standing them up in alternating directions to make them work on boards.

Pretty sure it does*—with larger wattage resistors having less. In critical circuits you can also spend more $ and get quieter resistors. (Usually along with less noise, you get both tighter specs and less thermal resistance change.) When I was building stereo equipment, trimmed naked foil...

I use a fine brush and black acrylic paint to repaint them. You don’t even have to be neat; just wipe with paper towel before the paint dries.

Really nice, all around. I’m curious what your response to 18v will be. I like both, and have thought about adding a switch to select.

This is just my artwork, not painted yet. I left the names off the outer knobs though, since they reference the way the hands are pointing.

Great idea for a thread! I mainly go to McMaster Carr when I have any hardware, alloy, etc. questions. This used to come up a lot in a prototype machine shop. But I'm a sucker for a good chart. Here's one a good friend of mine made many years ago: (The same man that used to sell "Repeal the Law...

My PastFX Reticon has a blend knob, and I’m pretty sure that their Elastic Mattress does also. Pretty certain that there’s a small utility board available here that is just for this purpose. Yes, there will be some off board wiring, but I don’t think it would be too much.

And it’s that gain quality that is so enticing! I don’t think I’ve tried this in the everything at noon; will do so this afternoon. I typically have set positions for each guitar with this.

they are standard to the extent that there are several sizes of stems (and matching sockets) but within each size they seem to be standardized—at least in terms of the way the stems fit in. Ther actual wheel sizes could be different, usually there will be a spec that gives you the ht. from the...

One of my favorite pedals. I generally agree about not liking IC boosts, but running in 18v and with OPA 2134 chips it has a bit of a brownish flavor that I end up loving.

If it can work as well as they claim, especially chaining them, then this will be very interesting. I understand the SOM package, but for DIY a regular DIP release would also make sense.

I haven't looked at the schematic—so I'm not sure if you need all the poles on the 3P2T switch to go from 1 pot to the other. (I'd think if the pots get a ground to one of their terminals, that wouldn't need to be switched, it could be left on . But If this is wrong, and you actually need all...

Only on occasion, and typically the built in tank on my Allen Encore. It has a reverb tone control, which I think helps. I did build a Gravitation, and have used it, on low settings, and it’s okay. My favorite pedal reverb is the Free the Tone Ambisonic, especially “plate” which doesn’t sound...

If you had “hum cancelling” in the middle position before, then the shielding won’t add much. I still have (and occasionally use) the SX P bass (30 inch) that I got my son when he was 11 and his friends were getting electric guitars. (Since I had electric guitars he wanted to be different, and...

Try it in the open, but in as dark a room as possible. Chunk some chords, and watch the LEDs.

To put this (exact component selection) in historical perspective, especially early on, some companies were very loose with selection. If they could get a good price on a part that was a bit off spec, then that run used that part. This is one reason why certain era pedals are more desired...

And you really need it in a case to test it (aurally)—the circuit relies on a photo-resistor that is reacting to the LED that is mounted right next to it, so it needs darkness to have a sense of how much signal there is. Take close up shots of the board, from both sides if possible, and post...

that makes sense, but now that it's unmounted, use the continuity tester to confirm it. Those long bars have to be the poles.

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