Recent content by allanshookphoto

Yes, I have a 5mm diffused yellow LED for the Abyss. I know the ones on Tayda are supposed to be 2000 to 3000 MCD, and the ones I sourced on DigiKey are 1200 MCD. Maybe if mine are just a touch "dimmer" it might not lower the LDR's resistance too much, if that is what causes the distortion in...

Great info, Thanks! This has me thinking about a few other points. I'm building a Pendulum and an Abyss. In the pendulum, the audio signal actually goes through the LDR's and they act exactly like a potentiometer in that situation. There is a 1K resistor in series after them, so that sets...

I just used my multimeter. I think I was missing a small piece of logic, or somehow expecting them to behave differently. Still learning.

OK. So, at 10 Lux, (if I can get exactly 10 Lux of brightness from my LED's) these should measure 10kohms to 20kohms, but if I shine 100+ Lux on them the resistance will just keep going down, to less than 50 ohms? And, in absolute darkness, the minimum amount of resistance would be 500Kohms ...

Just received my order of a dozen KE-10720 LDR's from Tayda, and they are supposed to be 10k/20k light and 500k dark. These ones measure less than 50 ohms light and over 2Meg dark. That is so far out of specification, very disappointed. These are the ones I ordered...

UPDATE: I replaced the R3 10k with a 1M. (I'm doing one component at a time). Now there is no discernable sound difference between direct from guitar, or through a buffer, or through an "on" pedal. As far as I can tell the pedal is behaving exactly as it should. I would like to do more...

Well, I think you can see that I have a 1M in R2 where the silkscreen says it is supposed to be, and 10K in the other three. So I don't know what is going on. It's correct according to the plans and the silkscreen. The image that Robert posted above is different from mine.

I have been searching for a solution to the same problem, This may be the answer! I think I have mixed up the 1M and 10K resistors. With mine, the sound is fairly good on it's own, but after a buffer or another "on" pedal. the sound is very thin and crispy with no bass. So, from the bottom up...

I have also built a MOSFET Driver, quite a few months ago, and I keep coming back to it because I really want it to work better than it does. One issue I want to ask you about is putting the pedal after another pedal or a buffer. Mine sounds great on it's own, first in line, but after another...

Yes. That makes sense, and seems right to me. Making R3 a 1M, and moving the R1 1M to the input would essentially make it identical to the Rat input stage. I'm thinking that this circuit board need a re-design/new version with these changes. Thank-you to everyone for this very useful...

Well, technically I have not tried it with a buffer/buffered bypass pedal (Boss). However, any pedal that is "on" (and has a buffered output) is a buffered pedal, so in that sense, yes, I have tried it with buffered pedals. I have put it after my Bad Stone (turned on), and my Joyo Sweet Baby...

So, snipping out R2 would be eliminating the 1M pulldown resistor. From my understanding, that resistor is only there to eliminate the pop from turning on/off the switch. And, changing the R3 10K resistor for a 1M would change how the non-inverting op-amp stage is biased. I don't know enough...

That is interesting. In that case, it is actually working "properly" when fed from a buffer (or a pedal that is "on") and it has a noticeable treble cut when coming straight from the guitar.

At some point, I have to eliminate the possibility that the issue is improper build or assembly. I can only assume that it is behaving in the way that the circuit is designed to behave. I guess the only way to prove that is to order another board, and all new components, and compare them.

I've tested all the values, and double checked the schematic. I don't think it's a build issue.