Recent content by Brett

I hate to burst your pepperonis, but I feel like your recent revelation may have been pretty well covered on page one of this thread:

Thanks for sharing! I'd asked about this a while back in another thread and hoped to have a follow-up from you: I'd still be interested if you're willing to share. I seem to recall Chuck D. Bones mentioning that a reliable ground connection to potentiometer case is generally considered good...

Resistors and film cap values all appear to be correct. Your dual op amp isn't the spec'd part number, but the pinout should be compatible. Your wiring appears to be correct. Have you tried another known working dual op amp by chance just to rule out out a bad IC? A TL072CP may be a good sub...

Is it possible you're plugging into the wrong jack for input and output? The pedal would still work in bypass but would not work when engaged. In this picture, your input jack should be on the left.

I agree with what @Nic has said, and I'd add that I'm a little surprised that nobody has mentioned your document size, color profile, or background. The white layer error may be related to the background of the page being solid white instead of transparent. The error message may be a boiler...

Who's this "Paul" you speak of? ;)

A friendly suggestion... If you place your wire pads on either side of your pots (rather than directly over them), you may find that wiring the circuit is easier and less prone to shorts/wires breaking from over bending. Just a suggestion, you do you.

Correct. Perhaps I should have been more clear in my question. Is TONE lug 2 connected to the switched pole (A3) or the common pole (A2) of SW1.1 in PedalPCB's schematic?

To be clear, you're connecting lug 2 of the tone pot to IC1.1's output (pin 1) or are you connecting to the junction of D5/C11? I wasn't able to find the "stupidly simple tone control" to reference the change of configuration. Was that supposed to read AMZ's stupidly wonderful tone control, by...

It goes without saying, but you can't trust that a pedal shown in a demo video online is going to sound exactly the same in your rig. I'll second what @Erik S says about using a compressor for sustain. Play around with putting a compressor before and after your overdrive pedals. If you're...

Good god that’s nice! Well done!

These look fantastic, Stevie! I favor both the blue and yellow varieties. I can't pick a clear winner between them, they both look great and are superior to the red and clear combo (in my opinion). Will you also be offering standard (solid color) options when you launch?

The artwork was all you! I just helped in making it compatible with Tayda’s UV printing service. It turned out great, nice job @giovanni! To this day, I still haven’t attempted a raster image print with Tayda. This one turned out better than expected so maybe I’ll give it a try sometime.

I used to get this when I owned a business. Did this once, don’t think they ever asked again:

There may very well be a performance advantage to use ceramic over poly film for decoupling, but I don't specifically recall reading about it. I'd assume that TI is suggesting the use of ceramic capacitors in power decoupling positions for the following reasons: Ceramic is more cost-effective...