Recent content by Kroars

Yeah, the others I built all had 10R there with no issue. It does. The Harmonics and Bright make it a lot worse. The other, not nearly as bad, if any difference. Although, it does it when all three toggles are removed as well.

I’ll give it a shot. I did use a couple TL072’s, and definitely have used others (in other builds) from this same batch I got from Mouser, but it’s worth a try. I’ll let you know.

Thats a great suggestion, thank you! Although, the one I’m testing is out of the enclosure and the other handful of these I built have the same wire route, without issue. Perhaps I’ll use shielded wire, just to give it a shot. Thanks again!

Update, tried 1M, 100k and 10k in place of the 3M3’s on input and output. Once again, the output side didn’t change much. With a 10k in the input side, the pop noticeably decreased. Although, it also introduced a bit of noise when the circuit was activated. I’ve built a handful of other...

Tried replacing the 3M3 resistor on output to 100k, still have loud pop. Tonight I’ll try the same on the 3M3 at input

Yeah, I’ve built a couple before with no issues, using the same batch of parts. I’ll try the 100k in place of the 3M3 on bottom right of pcb. The cap is a 100v 3pf. I thought that may be an issue as well and put a 10pf Mlcc just to check. Still a pop. Thank you for your help with this.

Yup. Correct polarity for the tantalum’s. The blue caps are part of a batch of 500. They’re Nichicon UKT’s from Mouser. I’ve used approx 200 of them on other builds without issue. They’re audio grade and read less than 1 ohm ESR. One on of the skeptical buffers, I pulled all the...

The pulldown resistor added to the 3pdt on the input side did help the pop, but it also sucked the life out of the pedal…. So that’s not an option. Here is a picture of the back of one of the pcbs. I don’t see any cold solder joints, nor any debris that could cause an issue. Anyone else?

Tried a 10k from ground to output on the 3pdt. Nothing changed. Added a 10k to input from ground on the 3pdt and it got way better. Pop still there, but much less pronounced. Hopefully I’m on to something….. Also noticed the pulldown resistor on the 3pdt needs to be from middle lug (5) to...

Charge pump is an IC, like the TC1044SCPA, 7660SCPA. It’s the IC on the bottom (IC100), not the TL072 dual opamp. If you’ve got an extra TC1044 and you socketed the IC, I’d try swapping that.

I really hate to do this. I recently had an issue with a TS808 popping, that @music6000 kindly pointed out that I had an incorrect resistor installed. In that thread I had mentioned that I had a Skeptical Buffer doing the same thing. After replacing the usual suspects for leaky caps (all...

Very true. Thank you very much. :)

You hit the nail on the head for the TS! Of course, I dive into the Skeptical Buffer, replace every component and bypass the deep dive on the TS (the build with the available schematic). I’m gonna get that changed out and I’m sure it’ll take care of the issue. It was minor in the TS. The...

Nope, just my Rockerverb. I could try the TH30, I suppose. I’ve tried it through my RV with other TS808’s without issue.

Ya know, that’s one thing I didn’t check on the TS808. You could be right on that one. My eye sight is certainly not what it once was. The Skeptical Buffer is the one that I removed all components and reinstalled. I’ll report back tonight. Thank you! :)