Search results

Ha! That’s what I was about to do until I found mention of the 68nf. Damn build docs still reflect 10uf. Parts list and schematic! Bastards!! 😂

Thank you so much! I’ve been scratching my head for the last few minutes thinking “where the hell am I gonna find a 10uf film cap and if I do find one, how in the world will I make it fit??!! This helped tremendously, as I don’t have Facebook.

Ah ha! Thank you for chiming in, kind Sir! Happy New Year!!

Curious, do you know what C15 does? It looks like it’s in the circuit regardless of the position of the tone bypass toggle. I’m sure it serves a purpose, but it looks like C15 and C12 (one on each end of the tone section/bypass, but outside of the switch) are redundant? I’m sure that’s not...

Very cool and super clean! The schematic looks like a slimmed down BMP, most notably without the clipping diodes. Makes me wonder if it’d be worth while to experiment with a toggle to throw in some clipping diodes around Q3. Hope you are well, my man!

Awesome build! Just finished one myself and the SF side is crazy. The Bias knob seems to bring in some crazy noises. Not quite oscillation, almost feels like it’s reaching for a radio station at some settings. I originally used the gains on the original SF (which the very low, under 100 on...

The TC1 is a fantastic tester and not just because of the $20 price tag. I find myself using the TC1 way more often than my DCA75. It’s just quicker and I’ve not had any issues with accuracy over the past few years of using them. I’ve probably purchased four of them -still less than one DCA75.

Why are you dressed like a bumblebee and why do you look like Indianapolis Jones?!

Dual Loft still in the works?

I’ve built two, both work great.

I think I’ll give that a shot. I probably should have prefaced by saying that I’m trying to slightly reduce brightness in a way that keeps the overall sound/feel of the circuit intact. Thank you!

I’ll give it a shot, thanks!

If I wanted to make the circuit a bit less bright, say by 25% or so, what would be the best way to accomplish that? Thanks for any help! https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/Cobbler-PedalPCB.pdf

Thanks. I must be misremembering the size of the TL019. Appreciate the confirmation! Edit: Ah yes, I see know the TL019 is a few mm smaller than the TM019. I’m hoping it’ll fit in the same footprint, we’ll see. :)

Pretty sure EU has banned products containing lead, so you’d probably have to use lead free solder, among other component considerations. It may be more trouble than it’s worth, but it certainly wouldn’t hurt to look into it.

Just used my last TL019’s and have a Tactical Fuzz to build. I’ve got a few TM019’s and was wondering if those would have any audible difference? The difference I’m seeing so far is in the primary resistance (M is 600 ohms and L is 450 ohms), would that have any impact using them as a pickup...

My apologies. I rarely speak (or type) technically.

You can get hfe and leakage from a $20 TC1 tester. As a plus, they test closer to the voltages we see in our builds, as opposed to the DCA75, which tests a bit hotter. https://a.co/d/eGIdimb

That’s a different part number. Good to know, if that one works! Thanks. Just looking at the data sheet, looks like they’re a direct match aside from the max operating temps.

Seems the converter needed for this build (IAB0105D12) is now obsolete. I did happen to notice Newark had 20+ of them in stock now for under $3 a piece. If you’re planning on building one of these, maybe a good idea to pick one up...