Recent content by reubenreub

Hey @PedalPCB I think the new Valhalla docs have the wrong schematic. It looks like it's the schematic from the Complex OD instead.

So this one actually doesn't use the charge pump to double the voltage but instead creates a +9v and -9v to work with and a midpoint at GND. You unfortunately can't omit it without doing a large amount of modification to the circuit. It's basically a tube screamer though so it might be easiest...

Yeah it's a lot easier using a DPDT switch for an added diode mod. So since D1 already has its anode to ground and the cathode to signal (check the schematic) you don't need a wire going to a ground pad. Also it's called a diode "lift" because it's no longer connected to ground or is now...

I absolutely love using breakout boards as they make for a really clean and tidy final build. I actually designed a whole bunch of my own boards so I could have versions with LEDs in both sides and extra ground pads as well as a power jack if needed (non pedalpcb builds). I'd even say transition...

I'd recommend trying a clean blend as the only mod needed for bass. Alternatively the Ruetz mod can be helpful as well but it changes the character of the distortion some. Also just going to plug this project as I think it's the best rat-based bass distortion I've heard...

Oh so if the 27k is removed then the 2 germanium diodes aren't doing anything since they connect to that 27k. Supposedly it's a difference between some of the v1 models. I was planning on putting the diodes in and then using a switch to put the 27k in or out of the circuit.

Oh sweet! Thank you! Looks like blue 5mm LEDs then.

Yep those big honkers! It looks like they're for soft clipping but the footprint makes me think something might be up with them. It's at least pretty unusual for pedalpcb. Oh and not that it matters in this arrangement but I'm pretty sure you got the A and K mixed around. Square hole and flat...

Got the Shrapnel, based on the Gunshot OD, and was just curious about the unusual LED footprint. Are they supposed to be a special type of LED or would the usual 3mm/5mm red LEDs be used here? The spacing is a bit weird too compared to the normal LED footprint. Any thoughts are appreciated!

Chuck, this is so incredibly helpful. I've been having a lot of fun playing with different ways to use jfets on my breadboard but this really helps make the biasing make more sense. I also found runoffgroove's fetzer valve article to be really informative as well for when you're trying to...

Check out the pandora's box! It's based on the bixonic expandora and sounds crazy good and is super versatile. https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/pandorasbox/

I believe that should do it! And I want to say the nkt275 is right as is. Give it a try and see if it fires up!

So I use these 1t308b transistors and they have a nonstandard pinout. You see the little painted dot on the transistor? That indicates the emitter. Middle pin is collector. Non-painted side is base. You're going to have to bed the legs around a bit to make it work.

I'm not 100% sure but I think both are designed with the LT1054 in mind. Generally if you use a 1044S or 7660S you'll need to connect pins 1 and 8 in order to not get an audible whine in the circuit. In the Simulcast, those pins are not connected. You might be able to get by with creating that...

Tayda has them and should fit the PCB perfectly! I'm pretty sure pedalpcb designs his capacitor sizing with Tayda capacitors in mind so always check there first. https://www.taydaelectronics.com/capacitors/polyester-mylar-film-capacitors/0-82uf-100v-5-mylar-film-capacitors.html