Recent content by Stickman393

I dunno. Probably, yeah. But I'm also kinda...well...I'm curious about the cumulative impact of all these individual decisions. A single cap in a circuit doing a single job like, oh, coupling in the signal path...that ain't gonna be noticable unless the cap itself is failing. A bunch, one...

Yes, but only vintage tantalums are acceptable. That way, the flavor of the pain has had time to age into a distinct vintage. NP0/C0G are the same thing. NP0 =Negative-Positive Zero Temperature Coefficient (meaning, capacitance does not change with temperature), C0G is simply the EIA...

You're good. You traced the EBMM circuit. That's good enough for a pay it forward from me ;). Just PM me with your address, I'll pop it in the mail sometime in January.

Sure! I just ordered a few more of the assemblies I'll need to build the ones I like to use in these It's a fully shielded thing ferroxcube makes. Kinda looks like a "trash can" assembly with a hole in the top. Same as the one in the photo I shared.

A'ite, I checked out the lead spacing on those EB wah inductors. Any of the eleca-made inductors will work. Wilson, sabbadius, or eleca. The eleca model, you'll probably need to strategically cut a few of the terminals. Which...all you need are two. It's a simple component. Just a length...

Okies, found a little photo of one of the EBMMs I've done. I haven't really built or touched my wah pedals in like...6 months here. Focus shifted to germanium transistors and like...hoarding all of those. Apparently. Anywho, gotta get back into it. Maybe do a GE wah just to be a real...

Personally, I really like the alpha 3pdt in a wah pedal. Good solid click. If I do a DPDT, I'm typically installing a Carling (if it's a vintage baby that I'm restoring) one of the blue DPDTs that smallbear sells: those seem to be a step above the cheapie x wings. I'm experimenting with relay...

Ooooo. In that case, you'll probably want to upsize the range and input caps as well. Typical bass crybaby values on the bass wah range cap are around 68nf. You could probably push that to 0.1uF if you wanted. The pin spacing...I'll have to check.

J201 works great. I just copied the PPCB jfet buffer. Ooo...yeah. You have a more recent circuit board there. Probably non-leaded solder. Makes life very difficult. Thing about the wah circuit: its not a unity gain pedal. Before they added the buffer it actually did bring your whole signal...

I've gone through two of those so far. So, their inductors measure on the low end of things. Honestly, I think they overall have an excellent take on the wah...with a couple of exceptions. First off, they've got an extra resistor in line with the inductor. It makes the peak wayyyy too wide...

Honestly: users choice. Its not a bad addition to the circuit. I've made wahs with switchable input buffers, and I have a hell of a time figuring out if they're on or not. The "classics" didn't have em, so it's ok in my book to strip em out. It does the job. I like swapping for a jfet-based...

Deffo do the "B". Too much gain in this position gives the wah a bit of a spiky, unpleasant high-end response. This was a 2N2905 in the old Thomas Organs - generally between like 100-300hfe. A "C" bucket will get ya closer to 400-800hfe. Too close to the mpsa18, which is just...too damned...

I haven't done much tinkering with the circuit myself, but I picked out that 2N3565 towards the bottom of the gain bucket 'cause I'd read that was the ticket to getting them low octave toanz.

Heyyyyyyyyy. So: You'll have a buffer in there. It's decent. No real reason to pull it out, no real reason to mod it. It works. If you've got one with a single pole double throw toe switch: yeah, swap that thing. Do a true bypass. This used to be a much more important mod before the...

The...the Seinfeld thing? Look: as a Stickman of German heritage, I'd say that any grievances prior to 1939 are...kinda...well... Let's just say we're squaresies.