I took a shot at point to point

EGRENIER

Well-known member
I had never tried that, seen a few here and there and yesterday I figured ”Why Not ?”

I perused the different build docs and elected to try a Sandspur Fuzz. Seems probably the simplest, 20 components and I pretty much had every parts. I had to make a few substitutions, didn’t have BC108 so I went with a paire of BC550, didn’t have an A250K for volume, so I took an A500K and finally I used a 10k trimpot for the bias instead of a 5k.

I also didn’t have a name or graphic in mind, so I figured I would cut an enclosure cover made of plexiglass to show the circuit And mount it reverse in the enclosure.

So there it is, my first shot at a point to point circuit ! Best thing is, it works…

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Duuuuuude! Sick looking build. Any advice for p2p?
I’m not sure I’m qualified to give advices.. but here’s my lessons learned:

1- Don’t forget you’ll have to box it, soldering the power jack was, at first a good idea giving it some support, until I realized I used an “outty” one !
2- Make your plan 3, 4 and even 5 components ahead.
3- If you don’t need the room, don’t use it, you’ll need it later.
4- A circuit board is 2D, P2P is 3D, don’t hesitate to think in layers.
5- Never lose track of polarity, know where your ground and Vref/Vcc is.
6- Take your time, if you think removing a component on a PCB is a pain, P2P is a whole different level.

That‘s all I got…
 
Nice job! Love the use of the plexi so you can continue to enjoy your work instead of hiding it away in a dark box
 
I love that you kept transistors in sockets!

I think I'll try an Em-drive or Bazz Fuss for P2P... Hmm I may have already tried an Em-Drive... I'll have to look through the wreckage.


[once again, wrote a post and didn't hit "Post Reply"]
Good habit are hard to lose !

TBH, my confidence level of it to work was rather low. So with socketing I could make sure my pins were respecting the schematic.
 
Whoa! Looks like neurons in a brain!

I'm getting ready to do a ptp but with some G10 epoxy board and tiny little eyelets I bought from China. It's a ruby layout I made in Visio, a pedal amp. I print this out, use a glue stick to stick the template to the G10, drill the holes and swag in the eyelets, using a different size drill/eyelet depending on how many wires will go into the hole.
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The one thing that always made me wonder about bare wire PTP is if it was more susceptible to RF, but then I realize that the silicone or rubber coating on hookup wire provides zero protection either and all but two of my pedals are free of RF intrusion.

As a kid there was a neighbor about four houses down who’s dad had a HAM radio, he was a Vietnam vet and talked some crazy shit to his buddies over that HAM, but he was always blaring though my cheap shitty guitar amps and boom boxes.

Flash forward to present day the only pedals that pick up any RF are the two Percolators I made. They pick up a Christian AM station and it’s crazy loud.
 
The one thing that always made me wonder about bare wire PTP is if it was more susceptible to RF, but then I realize that the silicone or rubber coating on hookup wire provides zero protection either and all but two of my pedals are free of RF intrusion.

As a kid there was a neighbor about four houses down who’s dad had a HAM radio, he was a Vietnam vet and talked some crazy shit to his buddies over that HAM, but he was always blaring though my cheap shitty guitar amps and boom boxes.

Flash forward to present day the only pedals that pick up any RF are the two Percolators I made. They pick up a Christian AM station and it’s crazy loud.
I was always picking up the ham operator a couple blocks away, and some guy down the street that saws a lot of wood with a circular saw. Switched to mogami bulk cable, rolled my own patch cords and instrument cables and I don't get *anything* any more. Same vintage 68 silverface deluxe reverb, same tele, same pedals. Redco has the cheapest price on bulk.
 
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