seeking advice for creating mini pedal x 4 "Frankenrack"

countcoolout

New member
Hi all, long time lurker and learner, and first time poster. I’ve finally built up the courage to get on and ask about this little project I’ve been meaning to complete for a while now. Hopefully someone can have a peep at this and give me a few pointers. I’m pretty new to this and am starting with something so incredibly basic that many may well think is somewhat dumb - please go easy on me!

I have a whole bunch of cheap mini pedals laying around - so I thought that I would like to mount some into a 1RU 19” rack box. Why? I want to use these effects in a studio setup, and be able to patch them as required like the rest of my rack effects. These sound great on synths and I will be more inclined to use these little turds if they are all mounted, powered on and patchable. It suits my setup. Plus - I dislike clutter . Plus - it’s a nice little project that I just want to do. I may even call him FRANKENRACK. . or maybe RACKZILLA.

So my plan is:

1. SWITCHES - Remove the 3PDT switches entirely so I can switch all 4 effects on or off at once using the main toggle switch. (Bypass is not necessary as I want them always on when the rack is switched on, and to be able to use patch cables to route them in the order I require, whether using just one effect, or two or all three.)

Instead of trying to desolder the pedal 3PDT switches which could be troublesome I was going to carefully dremel them off. I read somewhere that it is probably a safer option to do that, then just have the new phono input/output connections soldered directly to the boards. All pedals are the same brand and all have very nice and clear markings on the boards for ‘IN’, ‘GND’ and ‘OUT’ which is lovely.
In order to achieve this, will I need to do anything to the 3PDT wiring once the foot switches are removed? Or can I just remove the switches and wiring and ignore what remains?

2. POWER: - I want to power them all from one 9V power source at the rear of the box, and add a toggle switch to turn all effects on or off from the front of the rack. I’m not sure if the way I have this wired in my layout is correct. They are all 9V DC centre negative - I would solder the new power wiring to the board where the existing DC connectors are. Will I need some sort of noise filter on the DC jack in case of an 'unclean' power source? Any other issues here?

I would maybe like to have just one LED above the toggle switch (each pedal already has an LED - but I don’t want a Xmas tree look - plus these cheap pedal LED’s are blinding!). I’m not sure whether to leave them there or remove them. Would that be ok to just cut them off?

I think that’s it - Thanks for listening - apologies if this is a little below the usual standard of projects going on here.
I’ll make sure I post up some photos if anyone is interested. I have the skills to at least make it look good.

Attached pics of my layout & the pedal guts.
Thanks a bunch!
3xMINIEFFECTS_RACK-01.jpg 3xMINIEFFECTS_GUTS-03.jpg
 
will I need to do anything to the 3PDT wiring once the foot switches are removed?
So the footswitch works by opening and closing the connection between the audio jacks and the circuit, so removing it entirely would leave the connection to the jacks open.

What if you just left them on? It would be less work and it could go back in a stombox later for some future experiment.

Will I need some sort of noise filter on the DC jack in case of an 'unclean' power source? Any other issues here?
I would presume the pcbs already have that in their design. But it’s still a good idea to feed it an isolated power source.

I think this looks cool- a great project fer ‘round these parts. I would be interested in seeing how it goes.

Edit: you’ll also want to add a CLR to that LED.
 
So the footswitch works by opening and closing the connection between the audio jacks and the circuit, so removing it entirely would leave the connection to the jacks open.

What if you just left them on? It would be less work and it could go back in a stombox later for some future experiment.


I would presume the pcbs already have that in their design. But it’s still a good idea to feed it an isolated power source.

I think this looks cool- a great project fer ‘round these parts. I would be interested in seeing how it goes.

Edit: you’ll also want to add a CLR to that LED.
Hey thanks for the reply and advice!
I really don't want to leave the foot switches on there as they won't be useful or operable, so I'd rather just get rid of them and keep a nice clean look to it all and also disguise the origins.
Thanks for the tip about the resistor - I completely missed that. What value should I use? I guess that's dependant on the LED?
cheers.
 
Yes, dependent on the LED... I'd start at 4k7 and work your way up — super-bright LEDs, well I've read some people have gone as high as the 20k-neighbourhood.

Personally, I'd desolder the switches so I could use them in something else. Key is to take your time, allowing lots of cooling time. Too much heat will kill the switch and possibly some of the traces on the board.

Flux, Solder-Braid, a big Solder-Pump, lots of patience and cooling-time between working on the lugs...

Once the 3PDT is out, of course, you'll need to jumper the board to "always-on" status.




Here's a vid of what a 3PDT switch inside looks like:






There's a bunch of posts on Reddit, too, but that platform isn't my thing so I don't know if any advice from there is legit/good/bad/myopic/misleading or what.



Looking forward to seeing the completed project.
 
Yes, dependent on the LED... I'd start at 4k7 and work your way up — super-bright LEDs, well I've read some people have gone as high as the 20k-neighbourhood.
Thanks! I'll do just that - start low and go from there. I'm after a warm glow rather than a glaring spotlight.
Personally, I'd desolder the switches so I could use them in something else. Key is to take your time, allowing lots of cooling time. Too much heat will kill the switch and possibly some of the traces on the board.

Flux, Solder-Braid, a big Solder-Pump, lots of patience and cooling-time between working on the lugs...

Once the 3PDT is out, of course, you'll need to jumper the board to "always-on" status.
Here's a vid of what a 3PDT switch inside looks like:






There's a bunch of posts on Reddit, too, but that platform isn't my thing so I don't know if any advice from there is legit/good/bad/myopic/misleading or what.
Thanks for the links - really appreciate it. I think I've actually scoured that very freestompbox thread before to gain some insight! Great to have the link again as that was a while ago.
I'll definitely update here with how it goes!
Looking forward to seeing the completed project.
 
IMG_4145.jpeg
A plug-in Solder Sucker can be really handy for desoldering chunkier stuff like footswitches.
I got a generic $25 dollar one off eBay several years ago. Don’t use it all the time, but way less frustrating than the alternatives, when I need it.

Suck tin!! ;)
 
View attachment 83875
A plug-in Solder Sucker can be really handy for desoldering chunkier stuff like footswitches.
I got a generic $25 dollar one off eBay several years ago. Don’t use it all the time, but way less frustrating than the alternatives, when I need it.

Suck tin!! ;)
I think it's definitely time to upgrade to a powered one! All I have is a cheap handheld pump one which never really did anything.
 
... I just wonder now if I need to do anything to have it in an "always on" position...

Yes, you will. It's just a jumper, or rewire the jacks directly to their respective ins/outs.


Also, you can dismantle the 3PDT, but its lugs will still be soldered to the board maybe preventing you from mounting the pedal guts into the rack (if you plan on using the controls as is and not offboard-wiring anything). You could use a Dremel or similar to cut the remaining blue-hulk down.
 
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