Wah Inductors. No hype. Just measurements.

Stickman393

Well-known member
*multiple edits made as of 11/25/24*

Alright folks, I've been collecting wah inductors as I've been working towards a few different expression pedal projects.

So, curiosity. How do all these compare? I might put together a little trial wah pedal and cycle a bunch of these one-by-one, but I'm not particularly inclined to believe that my ears can really do all that much to tell the difference. But...I do have a TC-1, and that'll give some objective idea of how each of these compare in this extremely limited realm of "hey, resistance/inductace info?"

*EDIT* I've got a spreadsheet set up now that contains Inductance, Q, and Reactance measurments with a new Hantek 1832C LCR meter.

Its not the worlds most fancy LCR meter, but it allows me to take measurements across different frequencies. I took measurements at 100Hz, 120hz, 400Hz, 1KHZ, 4KHz and 10KHZ, as well as each unit's base DC resistance. This meter measures at 648mV, and is extremely well calibrated an accurate stated frequency. The duty cycle is right about 50% for each.

I've also included measurments for each on my Honeytek LC meter for comparison. Important notes on that one: these readings are taken at 3.28Vac, 205.4Hz, 56.1% duty cycle.


Initial Impressions: Well, balls.

My main takeaways? I'm still learning, so please post and correct if I say anything remarkably out of line here:
  • Many of these are remarkably similar.
  • I imagine that higher reactance at higher frequencies will tend to attenuate higher frequencies in a wah pedal. I could be wrong.
  • I also imagine that higher Q will result in a steeper drop-off around the resonant frequency, resulting in a more pronounced effect.
  • Even within the same type of inductor, there is some variance that can be observed through this test.

Notes:
  • Like capacitors, Inductors are not frequency-dependent, in that their inductance value in *Henries* does not change with frequency they are subjected to.
    • Why am I measuring up to 30% drift in inductance across a 100Hz to a 10KHz band on something like the yellow fasel? Beats the hell out of me.
      • Could be something about how building a "perfect" inductor is damned difficult.
      • Maybe folks who are trying to re-create a vintage inductor are purposefully building "imperfect" inductors.
      • Take the above for what it's worth: the musings of a man who has no idea what he's talking about.
    • Transformers seemed to have the largest discrepancies in frequency input vs measured inductance.
      • Seriously, on some of them when I cranked it to 10KHz my meter told me that I was measuring a capacitor. Weird.
    • The two that seemed to have the most stable mH measurements are the "Whipple" and "Sabbadius" Halo inductors.
  • Like capacitors, an Inductor's *Reactance* is frequency-dependent.
    • This reactance is a measure of impedance, which measures how much the inductor impedes AC current.
    • I included this measurement in my spreadsheet.
    • There is a fair amount of variance between different inductors.
  • My new meter also measures "Quality Factor" or "Q".
    • Yeah, my shit is strut.
    • A higher "Q" means that your wah will have a sharper roll-off across it's resonant frequency.
    • Every single one of these experiences an increased "Q" when run up the frequency range, but some experience a slight drop off at the very top.
    • Higher "Q" will be a bit more "dramatic" and "peak-y". Lower "Q" will be a more "mellow" and "smooth".
    • This can also be adjusted via "R5" on the GCB-95 crybaby circuit board.
      • Stock Value is 33K. Also the "Q" potentiometer on the Tear Jerker PCB.
        • This resistor is in parallel with the inductor.
      • Higher values will increase the "Q". A common mod is to replace the 33K with a 68K.
    • Importantly: all the transformers I tested (with the exception of the OmniFX cheapie) had *exceptionally* low Q. You'll probably have to make a major adjustment to the parallel resistance if you choose one of the "TM0" mini transformers as your inductor.

*EDIT* now with CHARTS!

Measured Inductance.png
Quality Factor .png
Reactance.png
Average Inductance.png
Q (average).png chart.png

AND PHOTOS!

1000008071.jpg 1000008072.jpg 1000008073.jpg

EDIT (11/23/24) Below are the first measurements I took. I recently picked up a new LCR meter, and the values shown below are not to be trusted. These were taken with my TC-1 and a cheapie LC meter from amazon. Use the link above for my spreadsheet.

So take the following for what it's worth:

The numbers in parenthesis are from my Fluke 87+ and my honeytek LC meter.

Dunlop Yellow Fasel (cup core): 14.7 ohms/24.26mH (13.9 ohms/620mH)

Dunlop Red Fasel (toroid): 17.5 ohms/565.2mH (17 ohms/583mH)

Dunlop Crybaby GCB-95 (late 90's through early 00s) (Black plastic cylinder with white dot): 15.1 ohms/24.85 mH (14.6ohms/690mH)

Dunlop Crybaby GCB-95 (modern?) (black plastic cylinder with white paint dot): 17.8ohms/599.4mH (17.4 ohms/645mH)

Dunlop Hendrix crybaby (late 90s though early 00s) (black plastic cylinder with green paint dot): 14.1 ohms/14.03mH (13. 7ohms/564mH)

Dunlop Crybaby GCB-95 80's (Mexico): 12 ohms/76.78mH (11.8ohms/343mH)

Mammoth/SBP ME-6: 30.7 ohms/730.3mH (29.4 ohms/622mH)

Ruby Tubes tall plastic: 57.7 ohms/592mH (56.2 ohms/579mH)

Whipple Halo: 28.8 ohms/580.7mH (27.8ohms/522uH)

Sabbadius Soul Halo: 30.3 ohms/ 597.8mH (29.5 ohms/510mH)

Dunlop Crybaby 535 (Brass screw, exposed toroid): 17.8 ohms/582mH

Dunlop Crybaby 535q 18Vdc (metal can. shielded): 18.3 ohms/593.3mH

Dunlop EVH inductor: 14.8 ohms/15.83mH (14.4 ohms/666mH)**************************** fuck yea

Transformers!

TM-011-R:
Primary: 124.8ohms/2181mH
P Center tap: 62.3ohms/255.7
Secondary: 47.3ohms/357.1MH
S center tap: out of range

Tm018-R:
Primary: out of range (shows up as diodes)
P center tap: 271.4ohms/6059mH
(Secondary identical)

TM022-R
Primary: out of range (shows up as diodes)
P center tap: 276.8 ohms/5335mH
Secondary: 147.3ohms/3359mH
S center tap: 75.5/504.5mH

Hammond 142B:
Primary: out of range (diodes)
P Center tap: 389.8ohms/8415mH
Secondary: 215.4ohms/6448mH
S Center tap: 104.2ohms/885.8mH
 
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This is cool. It would be nice to compare to some commonly available transformers that are sometimes used instead of inductors.
 
I've got about a grip of those.

I did a couple of quick tests, but I found that mine they tended towards higher resistance, and *much* higher inductance.

*Edit* added to original post.
 
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I always wondered what the actual specs were on a lot of these inductors like the different red and yellow Dunlop ones since I've never seen them come out state what they were. Not that I actually understand how the resistance or henries effect the wah sound, but it would be nice to be able to compare them. I built a Shamwah! in my 595Q Crybaby enclosure and ended up reusing the inductor that came with it because I didn't know if or what the difference would be.
 
I hear you. I've been reading and re-treading RG Keen's article on wah pedals in an attempt to really *get it*. But my brain is made of sticks.

I know a little about Inductance and capacitence as an HVAC tech. Mostly in how they affect power factor.

Something that interests me is a note that RG KEEN has in reference to magnetization of the inductor core, and how it could possibly cause the inductor to clip asymmetrically.

If one was to run a bit of current through one of the transformers listed, one could easily create a bit of magnetic offset.

The 42TM022 would be ideal for that. Use the secondary center tap for the inductor. Run 9vdc through a 390r or 470r resistor and a 1k or larger trimpot to the primary to center windings. Kinda want to give that a shot, TBH.
 
For those who are interested in the 42TM series, boom. There's the datasheet.

This is largely in line with my measurements. It'd be nice if I had a better LCR meter, but my TC-1 will do for now.
 
*record scratch*

Hey. So I pulled another black plastic cylinder crybaby inductor out of another crybaby pedal.

This guy measured, in fact, at 17.8ohms and 599.4mH

So: there definitely seems to be variation on these little jobbies depending on the year the pedal was made.

I have no clue when this guy was made. It's worth mentioning that there that the low and high mH variations are not easily distinguishable.
 
*record scratch*

Hey. So I pulled another black plastic cylinder crybaby inductor out of another crybaby pedal.

This guy measured, in fact, at 17.8ohms and 599.4mH

So: there definitely seems to be variation on these little jobbies depending on the year the pedal was made.

I have no clue when this guy was made. It's worth mentioning that there that the low and high mH variations are not easily distinguishable.
I guess they must have found a way to get the same filter response with a lower value inductor? This is a bit over my head for me but I guess playing with R and C and whatever opamp stage would do it?
 
I guess they must have found a way to get the same filter response with a lower value inductor? This is a bit over my head for me but I guess playing with R and C and whatever opamp stage would do it?
In the ballpark will work since you're sweeping the filter anyway. Inductor variation along with pot variation is probably the source of many opinions on different wahs. Each one probably has a little difference in sweep and Q as a result.
 
My theory:

It's possible that the "fasel" inductors are simply the same as their two *modern* black cylinder inductors.

Why would they make two identical inductors, with only cosmetic differences? Probably so they can sell fasels to folks that don't know any better. I dunno. Or convince folks to switch to the classic? I dunno.

This is the same company that had the nerve to call a new line the "crybaby classic", fuck with the circuit, switch to all SMD, and just plop a fasel and a non-sealed potentiometer into it.

Wild.

But...Take a look at the red fasel and the most recent crybaby inductor I measured. Pretty damn close. Well within what I imagine tolerance for a part like this would be, especially when we take the uncertainty introduced by the TC-1. This black plastic variant has a white paint spot on it.

Then, check out the yellow fasel and the crybaby inductor. Huh. Super close. This black plastic variant has a green paint spot on it.

Granted: the one that measured in the 25mH range has a white paint dot on it too.

(Why do I have so many different inductors? I've been buying up all the cheap broken crybabies online. Sorry guys)
 
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My theory:

It's possible that the "fasel" inductors are simply the same as their two *modern* black cylinder inductors.

Why would they make two identical inductors, with only cosmetic differences? Probably so they can sell fasels to folks that don't know any better. I dunno. Or convince folks to switch to the classic? I dunno.

This is the same company that had the nerve to call a new line the "crybaby classic", fuck with the circuit, switch to all SMD, and just plop a fasel and a non-sealed potentiometer into it.

Wild.

But...Take a look at the red fasel and the most recent crybaby inductor I measured. Pretty damn close. Well within what I imagine tolerance for a part like this would be, especially when we take the uncertainty introduced by the TC-1. This black plastic variant has a white paint spot on it.

Then, check out the yellow fasel and the Hendrix crybaby inductor. Huh. Super close. This black plastic variant has a green paint spot on it.

Granted: the one that measured in the 25mH range has a white paint dot on it too.

(Why do I have so many different inductors? I've been buying up all the cheap broken crybabies online. Sorry guys)
I wonder what the EVH inductor measures at. Seems to frequently be the cheapest option of the Dunlop ones through replacement parts sellers
 
Added the EVH inductor.

I discovered that I have another capacitance meter that also measures inductance. It's a cheapie as well: a Honeytek A6243L.

That said: fucking hell. What?

It kinda turns my assumptions about these things upside down. Some of these measurements are *way* far off.

I might end up having to get a decent LCR meter after all: not sure I can trust *either* of these.
 
I might end up having to get a decent LCR meter after all: not sure I can trust *either* of these.
I mean. You don't have to.
I'm kinda surprised you don't have a high dollar fluke that can do the job.
Or get an Analog Discovery and measure them in circuit
 
Nah dude, I'm cheap as hell.

That fluke is my work multimeter. I'd never plop down that kind of coin for a multimeter. Cause I constantly try to get away with the cheapest option that can...like...sorta reasonably work for my immediate need but because I'm really, really bad at planning and somehow end up constantly broke.
 
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