I don't believe in reinventing the wheel, but when it comes to distortion/OD sounds, I consistently gravitate back to a stacked TS-808 clone (Behringer) into my 90's Boss OS-2. Something about stacking those two circuits just hits a sweet spot for my ears in the OD range as well as the Distortion range of the OS-2. I have repaired several pedals, but never built one from scratch. I would like to take this idea further and try to design it into a single pedal enclosure with dual pedal capability. From what i understand this would be a TS(808) circuit, into a parallel blended Rat + TS derived circuit. Diagrams are readily available for both of these pieces, but i am curious if anybody has traveled this path before and or has advice on mashing multiple circuits together but maintain that stacked 'thickness' in the output that I enjoy from the sound of two separate pedals.
Nope. No one's ever ran a TS into another dirt pedal.
Kidding.
Sounds like you want an Eternal Burst into a Proletarian.
The EB, Lovepedal Eternity Burst, is a stripped down TS style circuit. Low parts count small board and it does the TS as a boost thing very well..
Though, if you haven't built any pedals, I'd hesitate and say, just build wingle pedals. At least a couple. I've seen several come to the forum wanting to build a grand contraption from the get go and then fall off the forum(assuming our of the hobby) after they can't get it to work. Just don't make the into into the hobby harder than it has to be is all I'm saying.
Nope. No one's ever ran a TS into another dirt pedal.
Kidding.
Sounds like you want an Eternal Burst into a Proletarian.
The EB, Lovepedal Eternity Burst, is a stripped down TS style circuit. Low parts count small board and it does the TS as a boost thing very well..
Though, if you haven't built any pedals, I'd hesitate and say, just build wingle pedals. At least a couple. I've seen several come to the forum wanting to build a grand contraption from the get go and then fall off the forum(assuming our of the hobby) after they can't get it to work. Just don't make the into into the hobby harder than it has to be is all I'm saying.
I am pretty sure this was the first guitar pedal i ever bought, i remember thinking "wait, Overdrive, and Distortion, how can I go wrong?" I regretfully sold it... and later replaced it because i missed it so much. That is probably why its tone is imprinted on my senses and emotions!... was also around 92-93 that I first met the OS-2.
I use it for lead tones usually at about 10:00 Level, 10:00 Tone, 10:00 Drive, and 9:00 Blend (on the OD side of the OD/DS Blend pot), but also can get really saturated on the DS Side of the blend which i use sparingly but effective when needed. The TS in front just makes it a bit thicker and more dynamic so i tend not to use the OS-2 as a stand-alone distortion.
That leaves you a lot of room for the OS-2 circuit.
I recommend a 1590B3, minimum. While you could maybe squeeze it all into a 1590N1 if you use 9mm pots and Davies1900 style/size knobs... that's just too much pain and suffering for very little gain in pedal-board real-estate ESPECIALLY if you choose to have separate footswitches for both the TS and OS-2. Personally, I'd go 1590BB2 in portrait mode with separate stompers and an order switch.
PS: Forgot to add — the closest thing I know to an OS-2 in the DIY realm is the VFE Dragonhound, which you can get @ Madbean — 'cause why would anyone build on vero when a perfectly good PCB is available.
If you don’t play with the knobs much (like me), you can get it in a 125B with trimpots. I’ve done my own ts—>rat board that way. I don’t need two footswitches or order toggles etc. 1590B3 would be the prime candidate as @Feral Feline mentioned.
No, I don't play with the knobs much if at all, now that you mention it.
I guess the Dan Armstrong series was meant for me, along with the Union Tube and Transistor Bumble Buzz, and a few others I can't remember off the top of my head...
I once saw a funny pic of the whole pack of them stacked into each other with one end stuck in the guitar.
Toggles weren't in the way because they were staggered.
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TDPRI pic
NoisekickFX did this adapter, not sure why sidejacks — ALL Noisekick's other FX I've seen were top jacks.
Mutron has reissued a DA-based combo:
Henretta Engineering offers each of them cloned into 1590LBs, but also the whole shooting match into a switcher-sized pedal with additional key knobs (and another all-in-one with just two knobs... etc):
I've got my own multi-DA pedal, I'm just waiting for a confirmed tracing of the Yellow Humper.
Hey, that's my stage name!
For real though FF, I gotta ask and mean no disrespect, how many words per minute can you crank out?
I feel like we could filter this forum down to your posts and it would just be a pedal building wiki. I say this with all due respect.
That leaves you a lot of room for the OS-2 circuit.
I recommend a 1590B3, minimum. While you could maybe squeeze it all into a 1590N1 if you use 9mm pots and Davies1900 style/size knobs... that's just too much pain and suffering for very little gain in pedal-board real-estate ESPECIALLY if you choose to have separate footswitches for both the TS and OS-2. Personally, I'd go 1590BB2 in portrait mode with separate stompers and an order switch.
PS: Forgot to add — the closest thing I know to an OS-2 in the DIY realm is the VFE Dragonhound, which you can get @ Madbean — 'cause why would anyone build on vero when a perfectly good PCB is available.
PS: Forgot to add — the closest thing I know to an OS-2 in the DIY realm is the VFE Dragonhound, which you can get @ Madbean — 'cause why would anyone build on vero when a perfectly good PCB is available.
Hey, that's my stage name!
For real though FF, I gotta ask and mean no disrespect, how many words per minute can you crank out?
I feel like we could filter this forum down to your posts and it would just be a pedal building wiki. I say this with all due respect.
I took "Typing 10" in high-school 'cause I intended to get into the magazine industry (which I did). I hated the teacher, she was a surly ol' bat(tleaxe), so I didn't see the need to continue with Typing 11 and Typing 12.
Typing 10 has stood me well. I'm not fast, about 30wpm at my fastest (a fellow J-student could type 220wpm! She was a legal secretary, and after J-school, she went back to it — no money in journalism).
Glad I had Typing 10, though 'cause I'm comfortable with home-position and roughly 10xfaster than the huntin'peckers that I've worked with at various magazines/journals/newspapers.
The real trick is: that after typing 30wpm, it takes 20-minutes or more to whittle that gibberish down to a one-sentence cohesive statement.
"...filter this forum down to [my] posts..." hmm ...
...then the content would be my own myopic viewpoint, which is based on aggregated info from other sources as I have no real knowledge/insight/creative-technological-solutions of my own. So, no. This forum would better benefit from being boiled down to posts from authorities on topics such as Chuck D Bones' Celestial insight-tweakage, HamishR's amp-build postulations, Robert's rumenations, DGWVI's mastery of mods, and so many more that should be named but I've run out of breath...
@LuvDemEffects — I was remiss! DGWVI has made known other options in PCBs and inclosures (my omissions unintended, I assure you).
I've no further PCBs to mention, but in addition to his 1550J and 1590P1 suggestions, I believe the 1590Y is an under-utilised gem — it's like two 1590As coupled, but taller. A square, 92mmX92mm.
Another square shake should be given to the 1590Q — 120x120x34mm
Last one that should be given more do & due (it's not doodoo), the 1550M — 120x100x35mm.
None of those I've mentioned are tall enough for stacking PCBs, at least not "easily", but I mention them for general knowledge and for if you decide to not stack, then you'll need a little extra horizontal real-estate.
Here's a list of the commonly used Hammond enclosures (and clones thereof) for pedal-building focusing on HEIGHT:
HAMMOND Model
HEIGHT in mm (external with lid)
Notes
LB
31
G
25.5
G2
31
A
31
Y
42
B
31
B2
37.5
BS
42
N1
40
cont (forum has a max of 10 rows for tables)
HAMMOND Model
HEIGHT in mm (external with lid)
BB
34
BB2
38
BBS
42
Q
34
U
59
1590U 120X120X59, LIKE A TALLER Q
XX
40
X
56
DD
37
D
56
In addition, two loop-switcher style wide with shallow depth enclosures are
1590BX2 – 254 x 71 x 36mm
1590BX — 254 x 71 x 51mm
For people who want to maintain/preserve their pedal's graphics and/or not stomp on knobs while trying to turn pedal on & off, a loop-switcher is great. I think the BX at 51mm is great because if you put it in the front row of your board, the pedals it links to will almost assuredly be at a shallower depth, thus the taller BX protects those pedals tucked in behind it from my clumsy oversized sneakers.
The BX2 and BX are basically the same footprint as a 1032L (254 x 70 x ?mm), which more people may be familiar with, and the BX having the same height as a 1032L in some cases — lots of conflicting heights given online for 1032L (48–52mm), but mostly the footprint is within a few mm.
Toggle get in the way? Never handled an OG..
![YELLOW HUMPER DAN ARMSTRONG GUTSHOT [WAREHAM UK].webp](https://pedalpcb-forum.nyc3.digitaloceanspaces.com/data/attachments/91/91420-7ed9ef718e149e89c49a0ffe687173b5.jpg?hash=P9B8yZEftu "YELLOW HUMPER DAN ARMSTRONG GUTSHOT [WAREHAM UK].webp")
