Old Solder

Ok, I've found the solution. ONLY use it on GuitarPCBMania boards, as the outcome will be the same either way.

Ya gotta find some shade on a hot, sunny day like this. :cool:
 
Don't do it.

If you do, you'll get solder balls.

Big ones. Swollen, one might say. Also: made of lead, so they'll be heavy.

One must always follow the rules of expiration set by manufacturers in critical, life-sustaining applications like guitar pedals.

Give it to an airplane mechanic. Less important there.
 
Oof. That's some pretty nasty flux. Be careful with that stuff. Zinc chloride and ammonium chloride. I don't think the zinc is as big of a concern, aside from on skin, but doesn't am.onium chloride offgass as hydrogen chloride when heated? Don't want to be huffing those fumes.
 
Cybercow said:
I'd use it. But I'd also keep a bit of flux handy. I use this with any old solder I find without issue.
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I don't know anything about the chemistry, but that looks like the stuff I use for soldering copper water pipes together. Might want to look into plumbing vs electronics solder and whether that's the best stuff for the job.
 
jwin615 said:
Oof. That's some pretty nasty flux. Be careful with that stuff. Zinc chloride and ammonium chloride. I don't think the zinc is as big of a concern, aside from on skin, but doesn't am.onium chloride offgass as hydrogen chloride when heated? Don't want to be huffing those fumes.
Click to expand...
Erik S said:
I don't know anything about the chemistry, but that looks like the stuff I use for soldering copper water pipes together. Might want to look into plumbing vs electronics solder and whether that's the best stuff for the job.
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I'm no flux expert, but I also clocked that Oatey as being for industrial pipe work and whatnot. Careful @Cybercow!

I don't use a lot of flux generally, but I have a Kester pen that makes desoldering a LOT easier.
 
Erik S said:
I don't know anything about the chemistry, but that looks like the stuff I use for soldering copper water pipes together. Might want to look into plumbing vs electronics solder and whether that's the best stuff for the job.
Click to expand...
Ginsly said:
I'm no flux expert, but I also clocked that Oatey as being for industrial pipe work and whatnot. Careful @Cybercow!

I don't use a lot of flux generally, but I have a Kester pen that makes desoldering a LOT easier.
Click to expand...
jwin615 said:
Oof. That's some pretty nasty flux. Be careful with that stuff. Zinc chloride and ammonium chloride. I don't think the zinc is as big of a concern, aside from on skin, but doesn't am.onium chloride offgass as hydrogen chloride when heated? Don't want to be huffing those fumes.
Click to expand...
Well, at least I don't chew on my solder. As for off-gassing, it takes 640°F to get ammonium chloride to break down and off-gas. I solder at lower temps than that. I don't touch it with bare hands and carefully wipe up any excess and use alcohol to wash my PCBs after population. Not my first rodeo with hazardous chemicals. Cheers!
 
Cybercow said:
I use this with any old solder I find without issue.
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Holy shit! Any of that kind of flux that is left behind (including any fumes which land elsewhere on the circuit) is quite corrosive, I would *not* recommend using this on electronics. That stuff can really chew up your pots down the road.

For electronics I am a big fan of Superior No. 30 SuperSafe liquid soldering flux - water rinsable, and totally noncorrosive.
It can be hard to find, but it works great - I've had the same container for more than 20 years.
 
darwin999 said:
Holy shit! Any of that kind of flux that is left behind (including any fumes which land elsewhere on the circuit) is quite corrosive, I would *not* recommend using this on electronics. That stuff can really chew up your pots down the road.

For electronics I am a big fan of Superior No. 30 SuperSafe liquid soldering flux - water rinsable, and totally noncorrosive.
It can be hard to find, but it works great - I've had the same container for more than 20 years.
Click to expand...
That's why I don't touch the stuff with my bare hands. And when/if I do, I stop and wash my hands. I also wash my PCBs, after population, with 99% Isopropyl Alcohol; then wash with soapy water, rinse & dry well.
 
Ginsly said:
This was among them... 62/36/02. Not familiar, but seems like some really like it. Anyone use this type?View attachment 97923
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Yeah, I have a spool. Less shiny joints than 63/37 w/ type 44 rosin, but also a slightly lower melting temp. Mine came in an expired lot from a friend who works as a tech in aerospace applications. You can make it look shinier by using desoldering braid on your joints, which I tend to do for SMD opamps and not much else.
 
Passinwind said:
Yeah, I have a spool. Less shiny joints than 63/37 w/ type 44 rosin, but also a slightly lower melting temp. Mine came in an expired lot from a friend who works as a tech in aerospace applications. You can make it look shinier by using desoldering braid on your joints, which I tend to do for SMD opamps and not much else.
Click to expand...
Ah - missed that it's not a 44 rosin. Good info, thanks much!
 
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