Tayda UV Print Tool Final Update Gloss Testing

[leadfoot]

I know, I was being a jackass!

I'm devastated. Here I was thinking White Test was a modded SD-1 or TS.

 

[jwin615]

Here I was thinking it was the new immigration policy.

 

[giovanni]

Here I was thinking it was the new immigration policy.

New since January 2025 you mean?

 

[leadfoot]

I just received my last test enclosure. For this run, I enabled the gloss layer and used a design from a pedal I built back in 2019. The original artwork was created entirely in Paint.NET for an AionFX Luna.


I exported that original PNG, uploaded it into the tool with gloss selected, generated the PDF, and sent it directly to Tayda.

That looks really good. You consider it good enough to use it?

 

[chongmagic]

That looks really good. You consider it good enough to use it?

At this point, yes. I’ve run multiple physical tests including white and gloss, and the files have passed Tayda’s RIP without rejection. That said, I still recommend reviewing the generated PDF before submission to confirm sizing and layer setup.

 

[Passinwind]

This is fantastic! I passed two bar exams in three days but I couldn’t figure out how to configure Tayda artwork if my life depended on it! I got as far as vectorizing a cool photo of an Echoplex for my EP-3/Aion FX Ares, then hit a wall.

Has anyone tried using this for AmplifyFun? Just curious.

AmplifyFun sends you a pre-production proof for approval, and is much more flexible on artwork submission format to boot. My bet is that if it works at Tayda it’ll work for Spencer.

 

[counterdeliver]

AmplifyFun sends you a pre-production proof for approval, and is much more flexible on artwork submission format to boot. My bet is that if it works at Tayda it’ll work for Spencer.

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[counterdeliver]

I used the attached PNG to generate the Tayda-ready PDF for some reason it won't let me attach it so here is a screenshot, and these are the results on 125B and 1590B.

White layer mapping printed correctly, gradients came out smooth, and there were no rejection flags from Tayda.

I’m just waiting on the third enclosure with the gloss layer for final validation. As soon as that arrives, I’ll post another update.View attachment 111747

Again, I cannot thank you enough on behalf of myself and the similarly “vector-challenged” among us! At the risk of exposing just how utterly perplexing I find this entire subject matter I have two possibly very stupid questions:

1. When using this tool, is it ever necessary (or advisable, or design-dependent) to order a powder coated enclosure as the base?

2. (Perhaps even dumber), is there any need/means to designate text as text (i.e., is text treated any differently than any other part of the design)?

Thanks to anyone that can answer these - with or without your eyes rolling! I currently have SEVEN completed builds living in “temporary” 3D printed enclosures while I swore to myself I’d figure out how to create a proper Tayda file!

 

[chongmagic]

Again, I cannot thank you enough on behalf of myself and the similarly “vector-challenged” among us! At the risk of exposing just how utterly perplexing I find this entire subject matter I have two possibly very stupid questions:

1. When using this tool, is it ever necessary (or advisable, or design-dependent) to order a powder coated enclosure as the base?

2. (Perhaps even dumber), is there any need/means to designate text as text (i.e., is text treated any differently than any other part of the design)?

Thanks to anyone that can answer these - with or without your eyes rolling! I currently have SEVEN completed builds living in “temporary” 3D printed enclosures while I swore to myself I’d figure out how to create a proper Tayda file!

Trust me, you are definitely not alone in the vector-challenged group.

1. UV printing will work on bare aluminum, but many choose to use powder coated enclosures because it gives a more professional result. Bare aluminum should still work fine, but the final look can depend on the design and the natural aluminum texture.

2. You don’t need to designate text separately. Tayda’s UV printing treats everything in the file as artwork. Text, shapes, images, logos, and gradients are all handled the same way as long as they’re part of the file you upload. Just make sure your images and text are high resolution for the best results.

Once you run your design image through the tool and upload the generated PDF to Tayda’s UV printing service, you should be good to go.


If you run into any issues or have questions, feel free to ask.

 

[counterdeliver]

Trust me, you are definitely not alone in the vector-challenged group.

1. UV printing will work on bare aluminum, but many choose to use powder coated enclosures because it gives a more professional result. Bare aluminum should still work fine, but the final look can depend on the design and the natural aluminum texture.

2. You don’t need to designate text separately. Tayda’s UV printing treats everything in the file as artwork. Text, shapes, images, logos, and gradients are all handled the same way as long as they’re part of the file you upload. Just make sure your images and text are high resolution for the best results.

Once you run your design image through the tool and upload the generated PDF to Tayda’s UV printing service, you should be good to go.


If you run into any issues or have questions, feel free to ask.

Thanks so much for all your help (as if building your awesome tool didn’t already make you the GOAT)! The last time I attempted this, the Tayda “PDF Artwork Analyser” tool wasn’t a “thing” afaik, so that just saved me a ton of headaches in addition to your guidance. I just have to tweak my CYMK colors a bit more and I’ll finally be cranking out some proper homes for my pedals!

All of this was MUCH easier when I gave a friend a file to set up in illustrator for me, but I don’t want to keep going back to that well: