Tuner (PCB320) — Footswitch tap-to-toggle or hold and Build Photos, anyone?

OGCGFX

New member
I'm building the PedalPCB Tuner (PCB320, not Q-Tune). Two things the build doc doesn't cover:

1. Footswitch behavior — is it tap-to-toggle (press once to engage, again to bypass) or momentary/hold (hold to tune, release to bypass)? Is this configurable in firmware?

2. Standoff/spacer placement — the doc lists M3 female/male standoffs and screws by type and quantity but doesn't show which mounting points each goes to (board-to-board vs board-to-enclosure, etc). Would anyone be willing to post a couple of photos of the assembled hardware stack so I'm not guessing? Would save a lot of reverse-engineering time.

Thanks!
 
I apologize, I didn't see this thread until now.

1. Footswitch behavior

Standard tap-to-toggle latching behavior.

I've never considered momentary switching in a tuner but it actually makes sense... although personally I think I'd just leave the tuner on all the time.

2. Standoff/spacer placement

I'll see if I can post a picture of the assembled stack outside of the enclosure.


One other thing that you didn't ask but needs to be added to the build doc: start with both trimmers at noon. You most likely won't need to adjust them, mine seems to work just as well regardless of where they are set, but they are available just in case.
 
Not boxed yet but you get the idea. The black screws in the first photo represent what will go thru the faceplate and the enclosure.
 

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One other thing that you didn't ask but needs to be added to the build doc: start with both trimmers at noon. You most likely won't need to adjust them, mine seems to work just as well regardless of where they are set, but they are available just in case.
Are those buffer related or else ?
 
Here's what the finished pedal looks like. Kinda silly to build your own tuner from a financial standpoint. But kinda silly to be building your own pedals too so...

This thing is very cool. Stupid stable and very bright. I left the trimmers at 50%. I have no idea what they do. I thought I had another jack/power faceplate kicking around but I guess not. It'll go in with my next order. Its a Tayda blue metallic 125b. I overdrilled the LEDs just slightly so they'd line up with the faceplate and I'd look like I knew what I was doing. On the other hand I totally nailed the cutout for the display with a drill bit and some nippers but nobody will see it. I thought about getting creative and doing a cutout for the USB port but decided to quit while I was ahead.

Is this something you need? Likely not. Is it something you should build? Fuck yeah... You rarely get the chance to do a multiboard build with a crapload of holes on the front that requires a bunch of weird standoffs and ends up looking and working this trick. Don't even need my name on this one.
 

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