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It had problems getting measurements with most transistors I tried in it, even ones I knew were good because I pulled them from working circuits. For resistors and caps I use my multimeter--I bought it only for the transistor measurements.

That makes me sad. I may have got a bad one, but when I tried a TC-1 it was absolute junk.

I've done it twice with these boards. He really should mark it with a more explicit "do not put this side up" marking. Or I should just be more cautious. Although I've never had this issue with other vendors.

Because I soldered the pcb board upside-down on the switch. 🤦‍♂️

No, I ended up scrapping the pedal. I'm going to use the enclosure for a vero build.

I'm like you in that I never get along with fuzzes although I like the idea of them. Fuzz Aldrin is the one I've like best. It's a fuzz but can do overdrive that beats most overdrives if you turn the gain down.

The Luxury 763 and Indiana Deluxe are both meant to be blackface IAB pedals.

picture?

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/all-tayda-pre-drilled-powder-coated-enclosures-out-of-stock.23517/

I wonder if the solder they used is lead-free--that could mean it needs some higher temp to melt.

I haven't had that issue--usually the solder blob will melt pretty quickly. What iron are you using?

I've always been committed to boxing it when I buy the PCB, but now that I have a lot of builds, fewer ones inspire me. Maybe I should consider the boxing it only if I really want it.

If you use sockets or build on a breadboard you can just swap 'em and see which sounds best to you. For example, I found I liked the tonebender mk3 when I put the lowest gain in Q2, which is not the usual recipe. Also, I measured the gain and hfe of mine using this technique...

I heard about it in the context of PIO caps--didn't know it applied to film too but makes sense because it's similar principal (as I recall one side sheaths the other). Although in many circuits will it matter?

I've done it (more than once). just cross the wires when you connect to the main board and jacks

Yeah, my follow up question is to know if the leads are also reversed, because that's what I always go by. I've never even considered using the flat edge (although I know it's there it just doesn't occur to me to notice it).

It's not an input or an output. Think of it just as a node that connects to other nodes with the same label. It would be messy to draw the lines connecting them.

Pretty easy to put this in a stomp box enclosure so you don't have to mod an amp. That's what I would do.

i like to recommend the Mach One (Lightspeed). It's not many parts, fairly simple, and great sounding drive.

Oh no! This could be because a time traveler is altering the past.