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Thank you! Man, I made one last minute addition and two part swaps on the schematic before converting it to PCB and totally wrecked my connections in the boost circuit. Still passed all the verifications because they were connected to something, but not the right things. I would not have caught...

Thanks very much, I think I fixed everything you outlined except didn't see the path to be shortened, but I'm still heavily under the influence of dayquil. I used 4 spoke thermals without doing any research, I'm guessing there are some sort of guidelines for what to use when if I do a little...

Ok, well I got sick and the circuit went through about 10 more iterations, but I got way better at diptrace schematic drawing, and schematics in general. Here's my first PCB attempt, from what I've read I think I should do a copper pour on the top layer too, but I left it off here so you can see...

I recently put one in a combo build using relay bypass boards and didn't need the buffer function, so I skipped the mute and buffer pads and it works fine. I think though if you want those functions you have to ditch the breakout board and wire it as it's shown in the build doc. Edit...

I was thinking 1S1588 were much lower than 1N4148, just spreading misinformation in an area already full of it, oops. Ignore my post, get the Soviet ones like @PedalBuilder said.

1S1588 diodes have a lower Vf than some other silicon diodes but still higher than a D9k or a shotkky, sort of a middle ground. I'm not totally sure but I think they still have a steep curve like most other silicon diodes as well, so they should give different textures in addition to different...

Feeling real dumb, -9V on one side and +9V on the other wouldn't be a 9V power supply. I wasn't thinking, just trying to fit things from the supply pins category of the rullywow library into the schematic for the pads I knew I needed for connections on the board. Many thanks, I also forgot I had...

Thanks for all the tips, I definitely need to rework the power supply section. The clipping LEDs occasionally pulse while I'm playing, so I assume they're working? They're just there to prevent hard clipping from the jfets. -9V(T) is the pad for the negative connection from the DC jack, I wasn't...

Great looking build and art! Archaeopteryx was my favorite dinosaur as a kid when I wanted to be a paleontologist, but then I did drugs and worked in kitchens instead, so thanks for the reminder of my amazing life choices.

I just got diptrace and finished my first "original" design, it's cobbled together from online schematics that I've fooled around with on the breadboard for the last 2 weeks, anyway, please point out any glaring errors you see in the schematic. I ran the electrical rule check and corrected the...

US customs are assholes, if Portugal is the same then my condolences to you.

It's the only board I know of. They also make a board of the TAFM, which I like better on bass, and slightly better on guitar, but this one is still cool.

I got the fx888d a couple of years ago when my ancient hakko died, it's been great for me. Sorry about the crap day, reminds me of one of my favorite book quotes: "Truly, life is the misery we endure between disappointments"

Arkaim first, very pleasant build. Low parts count, beautiful pcb layout, drill template was spot on for UV printing and drilling my own holes. I don't love the sound on guitar, most high gain metal fuzz sounds kind of cheesy to me, but on bass it's tons of fun and seems like you could find a...

Probably the easiest thing to do for a power indicator is to have an led on the breadboard, long leg to the 9v supply and short leg to ground, use a current limiting resistor in series with the long leg if you don't want it to be blindingly bright. I'm stumped for wiring a bypass indicator on...

I've been using solid core on all electronic projects other than cables for a long time, but it can be a pain for cramped off board wiring. I currently have a bunch of remington industries 20awg(also available in 22awg) that I've been happy with, my only gripe is that it's pvc insulation, so a...

A long time ago I bought 200m of 1940's speaker wire from the West German Telefunken factory, it was supposed to have some mojo and I was impressed by the provenance, but mostly it was just a nice price for cotton sleeved pairs of rubber insulated tinned copper wire. I still have a bunch and use...

No personal experience, but Wikipedia says the advantage of glass capacitors is that they can be made to be virtually non-microphonic, with the downside being cost. They seem to fit the canon of mojo parts in the sense that they may offer better or worse performance on paper and likely have no...

Thanks, it is fun before gain. I like to do light fuzz into the meatball with color and intensity turned down and then run that into the TAFM clone which is a fuzz with a clean blend. Maybe one day I'll record something with all my fancy music and recording equipment. Edit: highly unlikely...

Easy test for that one is to use a cable and see if there's less hiss, but I bet wireless introduces more noise than a cable.