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Damn. Bat 41 and Bat 46 are my most used clipping diodes besides 1n4148 and red LEDs.

Solder braid is my go to and I'll put some extra flux on it before I heat it up to soak the solder up off a pad. I have a solder sucker as well, but I haven't had as much success with it vs the braid right on a solder pad.

Here's what I've been working on. I've had a goal to make a "distortion" pedal that cleans up nicely and can go from an overdrive type sound to full on distortion. Another thing I wanted to do was use all logarithmic 100k pots. There's something about using the same pots that appeals to me for...

Yep, those are just regular old ceramic caps. 101 would be a 0.0001uf or 100pf cap. 105 would be a 1uf ceramic.I bought a few to use in some muff builds where I only used ceramic caps. 105 = 1uf 104 = 0.1uf (100nf) 103 = 0.01uf (10nf) 102 = 0.001uf (1nf) 101 = 0.0001uf (100pf) I don't think...

This definitely has that Marshall midrange snarl to it. Nice playing!

The output capacitor and that potentiometer also form a high pass filter. If you're using a lower value pot it may make the output sound thin depending on the output capacitor value. Just buy the correct pot.

Won't the resistor across the pot lugs mess with the taper of the pot as well if you're not using a linear pot?

The a250k pot is a good suggestion. Personally, I would even consider using a 100k pot if you're not turning it past 11 o'clock.

Can you share a schematic of this circuit?

What kind of fuzz are we talking about? The Sandspur has a 50k trimpot in series with the input cap. You could mount an internal trim pot between the board input and the input cap like that. That ones wired as a voltage divider, but you could try it as a variable resistor instead kind of like...

I can only imagine someone with no formal electrical engineering education trying to build some kind of circuit from an old textbook and discovering that connecting the emitter directly to ground increased the gain and made it clean up better with a guitar's volume pot.

I don't know the math, but also your emitter to ground resistor will affect impedance as well.

@Robert did this project get shelved? It was one I thought of when I was looking for another distortion to build

I love the enclosure color and the knobs together. Nice job.

There's a video where Ola Englund used one in his effects loop and compared it to putting it on front of the amp. It sounds much better in the effects loop. I think I've also heard of people plugging into the Metal Zone and plugging it straight to the return of the effects loop, bypassing the...

C11 is going to get 18v, so 16v won't be enough. C22 is going to get 15v, but I still wouldn't stick a 16v cap there. I usually use 35v rated electrolytics in the power section even if I'm not planning on running higher than 9v, just in case I (or anyone) uses a 18v power supply on accident...

Dude, very nice work! That sucks about the burnt up leg, but shit happens. I have an MXR Studio Compressor which is supposed to be 1176 style. I wonder how they compare? I greatly prefer it to the Dyna comps I've had because it really just sounds more natural (or at least not as obvious as the...

Maybe a better idea is to have the blend set so the clean and dirty signals are evenly mixed at the summing op amp and make the clean side a clean boost that you can increase the gain/volume on before it hits the summing op amp. That would probably make a fine additive clean blend since you're...

I think it would be enough to stop the signal entirely, but I'm not 100% sure. With R12 being 10k, the value of R11 and the Clean pot would have to be 10k to get unity gain through the summing op amp. I'd test it out and probably use a b25k to start off with now that I'm thinking about it. It...

You could just run it go ground instead, throw a cap after lug 2. Probably get some wiper noise if you don't have a cap before the pot: Alternatively you could do it like this (just spitballing the c25k value of the pot).