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me too. maybe it was because that i completed the PCB at 4:00 am, but there's really no excuse for that.

i've built quite a few of them (etched my own PCBs for them) and found that the circuit is VERY particular on the choice of J201's used in it.

thanks Eric S! i reverse it and it's 100X better now. i feel like a moron doing that.

wow. good eye! thanks, i'll have to correct that!

it mostly has a faint distortion on the decay of the signal. has anyone else noticed this?

I just finished carefully building a Procrastinator using every component required for the pcb. I got it to work but it's very distorted. I've built over 1000 pedals successfully over the last 20 years including my own etched pcb versions and even a veroboard version about 10 years ago of a slow...

thankyou!

how do you now which ones are R9 and R10? the PCB just has the part values on it and not "R" numbers.

i just finished building my second one last night:

here's a pic of my completed build:

DOH! i just realized that i forgot to install the 555 chip in the socket! all is well now and it sounds great.

i just finished building my Nobelium and tested it. everything seems to work fine and it sounds very nice but is it supposed to have such a low output? i would have thought that it would be able to go way past my true bypassed volume with the volume pot dimed. i'm using older mullard 12AU7's in...

i find it unacceptable that pedalpcb actually sells a product without any documentation for months! i finally got it working by wiring it like this (it needed two jumpers!). BI=Board In, IJ=Input Jack, BO= Board Out, OJ= Output Jack and the Ground goes from "-" to A1 to ground the PCB when...

i just finished building my Equilux mini today. I had an original Spaceman on, and built large PedalPcb version as well. the Mini sounds just like the other two but i find the 125B version, not only more "size friendly" but i also prefer the control layout.

i just wish that they'd post the actual build documentation for the new version.

i finally wired on up using the diagram above but it doesn't pass signal when bypassed. here's the previous version's layout:

well, enrosenzweig didn't seem to mind. and i didn't see as a hijack. i'm sorry if it offended you.

Thanks! i just used the stock nut and threaded part for the jewel mount, then made a mount for the led out of a 16mm pot cap insulator. after that i drilled it to mount a plastic 5mm led insulator and hot glued it in the pot cap.

by the way, the pedal PCB relayed bypass was popping a bit too loudly so i replaced it with one form MAS effects with the opto-coupler and it's 10X quieter when switching the active/bypass switch.

i'm not sure which one that i'm going to sell yet. i bought the enclosure from Tayda.