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Can +1 on this. I have a larger Wera set, but got one of their bike kits and found it perfect: https://products.wera.de/de/werkzeuge_nach_gewerken_werkzeugsets_fuer_fahrraeder_und_e-bikes_bicycle_set_3.html

DC is DC-005, jacks are PJ-651A.

I build a lot but don't box a lot, I don't know if that speaks more for my taste in pedals or the pedals themselves. In any case, I boxed this one! Thanks to @HamishR for enlightening me to this Muff variant. I'm not a huge Muff fan, I value what they do and enjoy the tones but they don't gel...

Sure. Shoot me a DM and we’ll sort something out.

Not as a newbie in any case. It's definitely a valid way if you're able to. I stopped using sockets when building/tweaking. I just jam the legs in at an angle and let them hold themselves. It ain't pretty and it ain't solid, but it works. I stopped soldering bias resistors and diodes (and some...

I would start with an audio probe. This is an oldie but a goodie: http://www.geofex.com/fxdebug/newfx.htm

Awesome stuff sharing the love! I would say that this is indeed trivial if you're making a layout for IO. As much as we would love to blame the operator, we have all made dumb mistakes (now try doing it in the dark on stage!) and something simple like this can make a vastly superior consumer...

Try not to route through components where you can (ie. R5 in the first pic). There’s usually another route available and nothing good can come from it. It’s a tip I read from someone with commercial experience when I started with SMD. Can’t talk about the truth to it but it made my design rule list.

Modus Operandi and Tso have to be on the list.

Giving this one a whirl (with opinionated knob placement). Dave - I put a 500k trim pot in series with R2 for adjusting Q1. I'm thinking 750k resistor with a 500k, thoughts?

I enjoy a Timmy / Honey Bee stack.

I have one free to download if you are interested.

What an evolution. Bravo!

If you’re going to buy bulk, stock up on the E6 series. If you have any oddball values that aren’t in there, then you can put stuff in parallel/series to get what you need. Precise values are overrated in any case but storing oddball values is wasteful (in my experience). I tend to start at...

I’d just remove U1 from the BoM and not worry about the rotation. It’s something you’d solder yourself.

I don't have that with mine. Maybe put up a troubleshooting thread with pics.

I mean, a family member has just died. I think they’re focusing on other more pressing matters for the moment.

Not worth fighting over the placement of the Fat and Tone controls. I'll take my (relatively) direct signal path.

M-line rod and reel?

The only one I keep on the board is the Basic Audio Alter Destiny. I use BAT42 in the second stage and it hits me just right, not your typical BMP tone. The Fat and Mid knobs make it a lot more flexible for what I look for.