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I wouldn't expect signal on the far side of R1. Sounds as if you have sound on the base of Q1. Do you get sound at the base of Q2? Then what about the collector of Q2? Then follow the resistor chain R3 - Bias - Sundial. Then you are only left with C3 and the volume pot. I wouldn't go...

The Klon works by blending the clean in with the dirty signal. As you turn up the gain you get less clean blended in. If your gain works as a reverse volume it sounds as if the dirt section is just not working. I would audio probe the section from C2 to C11 and see where the signal is being lost

It would not necessarily be the spatialist algorithms, but there are collections of open source Spin FV-1 reverb algorithms on the net. You could try as many of those as you like and use your favourites. The SpinASM is free to download. You can also fin Spin CAD which comes with a whole bunch...

2 of the transistor pins are already tied together, so shorting either of those with the other pin should remove them from the circuit. Main thing to remember is that the forward voltage of the transistor + germanium diode combination is just over 1 volt. The germanium diodes alone have a...

Personally I would add a ground wire to both audio jacks. Connection to the ground on the DC jack is a good spot. If you leave one ungrounded it will ground through the case as long as there is a good mechanical connection of both jacks to the case. As soon as one of those nuts loosens off...

Sparky Mark I am going to suggest that you start a new thread specific to your issue. There are a lot of reasons why these things may not work and a lot of tests that can be run to determine where the fault could be. Rather than make guesses give us some information about your specific build...

The volume looks more problematic than the switch. Personally I don't use boards for footswitches because they are more hassle than they are worth IMO. The switch can be easily checked for continuity to make sure it is connected properly with the solder that is there.

I am not keen on the soldering of the volume pot or the footswitch

A normal soldering iron with a fine point is enough to desolder/resolder those, but I would practise first. You can get the SMD J201's from a few places.

The meter is set to the correct setting. According to the schematic though, none of the transistor legs connect directly to ground, so you need a different place for the black probe. One of the ground connections for the power or audio jacks would work.

Looking at your photos the only thing I notice is that the tip contact for one of the input jacks is nearly touching the case. As far as I can work out it's on the good one, so it's obviously not actually touching and isn't an actual problem. I'd be moving it a bit to stop problems later down...

Show us a photo of the setting you are using on your meter. There are usually current and voltage settings. You need the DC voltage setting. I am also pretty sure that you should be putting the red lead on the bias pad, and the black lead on a ground connection somewhere (ground of the power...

That should be correct then

Other thing I thought about - is your switch (on the key jack) normally open or normally closed?

The build docs call for a switched TRS jack for the key jack. You seem to have a TRS jack that is not switched. Also, the wiring shown on the build doc will connect the ground for the 2 sidechain jacks through the case. I don't think the sidechain will work without ground connections on these...

Yeah, audio probe won't be useful until you can get the power where it needs to be.

To me, if the build docs are specifying a wire not a jumper then I would be using insulated hook up wire, not uninsulated connectors (e.g resistor legs). If that is what they mean then they probably should have specified insulated wire, but that is what I would be doing

My memory is that the bias for these will be around 4.5v in order to work properly

The V3102 is a clock generator. It generates the clock signal that make the delay chip work. Something would be very wrong if you had the audio signal on any of it's pins. It looks as if you are getting audio out of the delay chip, which I think means the clock is working fine. From your...

Defective jacks are pretty unusual - especially if they are new. If they've been plugged/unplugged a few thousand times or left for years to oxidise that can be a problem. In any case it's easy to check - plug a (known good) lead in and check continuity from the tip to the signal wire coming...