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Was that the v1 or v2 board?

Funny. I purposely magnetize my snips. Heat to 1420F You didn't say practical...

These also https://store.mesaboogie.com/products/inductor-toroidal-390mh.html Maybe close enough

Not sure about 2 pins but the Carnhill VTB 9048 has a 500mH tap, also a 200, 300 and 760. A shift switch from 2-3 option could be musical? Or a push pull pot. AML (UK) stocks them but I'm sure they're elsewhere CAPI has a 1H Or just get a stickductor

102 feels like 120 down here and humidity indoors is 65%

Short the cap leads with a screwdriver and cut it in half if you have trouble desoldering. It take a crappy old iron and jam it through the top until it desolders itself. *This will stink*

Looks correct. If you have a component tester that outputs ESR readings, measure what you have and see if you get better readings on one. Preferably no ESR. Most if not all T7s etc do I think.

No sweat. 75+pages of this thread are people infringing on Robert's space.

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/what%E2%80%99s-on-your-workbench.13146/page-417#post-343893

Ah. I missed the voltage divider on the original schem. Yeah. Probably reading to deep into +9/+4 notation.

There's a certain skill to using a desoldering pump. First, make sure the factory seals are good. You may need some Teflon tape or vacuum grease to get it tight. It may just be junk but I'd make sure you have the technique down. You don't get as much violent suck as a good solder sucker but if...

Nice! Haven't heard this pedal but I remember you mentioning it a while back. It looks like the original used 4v as virtual ground/Vref, which would/could cause asymmetrical opamp clipping. Would give you 4v and 5v headroom, clipping the negative portion of waveform sooner and more drastically...

That look good but flip the switch into the other position and repeat.

Is that the LEDs fault, or dodgey Tayda caps leaking DC...?

If you did have to dig the slab, at least you'd have somewhere to hide the body. 2 birds one (big)stone...

I really don't think it's the switch. If you do a resistance check, that's good enough. Position 1 should be infinite resistance in one direction and a few ohms in the other(lug 1 to 2 and 2 to 3) Position 2, the same but reversed. The only way I could see it being the switch was if in the LED...

Hmm. Off (bad) memory, aion has dual grounds on this one. Make sure your grounds are per build doc.

Pics Where are the IO wires? Far from the 3101?

This is a fuzzdog pcb (I assume) for anyone else that was clueless