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I expected to be unimpressed by my LGSM but the damn thing sounds really good and is very usable.

I bought the one I mentioned in the OP. All good.

I refuse to memorise anything that silly unless it's a Monty Python sketch.

10mm is close enough for me. I'm not a high precision tolerance kind of guy.

Jaycar is where I'm going. I'm not a big fan but they're OK for stuff like this. And there's one a few km from me. I'm familiar enough with feet and inches for a loose understanding, but yes, fractions of an inch are the stupidest measurement ever. Nine sixteenths of an inch? Just tell me how...

Could get one cheaper from AliExpress, or even eBay/Amazon, but I can pay a little bit more and get one today, which is worth it to me. Or tomorrow, maybe.

I'm pretty sure mine just worked when I tried them in my DCA75. Anyway, I was going to offer you a spare but now I don't have to... win/win.

SMD caps are usually solid electrolytics, which are more reliable than ye olde aluminium e-caps. You can also get through-hole solid e-caps, which are a bit more spendy but have the small size of SMD e-caps and the sturdy legs we all love to stick through PCBs. Luxury!

Australians use the metric system. Pretty much everyone does, more or less, including at least some Americans. It's really only a few old fogies that are still clinging to hogsbreath and barrelsworths or whatever they call that medieval stuff. I play in a band with my ex, but she's a guitarist...

They're available everywhere, though they may be sold under different names, that's why I went with a picture. They seem to get good reviews in general.

I thought there was a thread on this topic but I couldn't find it when I searched. Maybe it's the solder fumes making me hallucinate... no, probably not, because I have been doing damn-all soldering now that it's brass monkey weather in my part of the southern hemisphere. Because I need an open...

Mine has become a favourite for me, too. Gets a lot of use.

Yeah, the OPA2134 is very expensive and (as far as I can tell) total overkill for an overdrive, so I went with a TL072. Does it sound the same? I don't know. Does it sound good? Yes, very good. I might try some other op-amps for comparison but I'd be fine leaving it as is. I'll compare it to...

Thank you. I'm trying, but I fear I'm just not built for understanding anything beyond simple connections. My skills are in other areas.

I only have ex-Soviet Bloc transistors and I'm aware that the pinout can be different and confusing with those - no problem; I can easily identify which leg is which. What I'm having trouble grasping is which hole is which on the PCB (the Gnat in this case). It's supposed to be for NKT213...

I ordered these from AliExpress, the same ones that are available everywhere else. I doubt they're Xvive related, but there's a good chance they'll work, it's not a complicated design. I have some LDRs so I could easily make my own if I knew what to test for. Or I could experiment, I guess.

I've got a pretty good idea of what goes in this, but confirmation would be great. Or a pic of the PCB if anyone has one, with the values showing.

I'll have a think about this and then I might grab a couple of the simple JFET buffers from PPCB and see if I can make it work. Thanks.

If @Robert offered an active ABY PCB I'd order one. I doubt I'm the only one. Of course I'm probably smart enough to figure it out myself...

I'm just waiting for the PCB to arrive, but I'm building the local version.