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No they weren’t so I suppose that’s plausable. But shouldn’t problem still be there when I take it out of the enclosure if that was the case?

To add to my last post. Everything else is in accordance with the build docs.

Yeah removing paint was gonna be my next move. As you can see there are dust covers. Let me know if you spot anything I might have missed.

Hey guys! Been working on a paragon and a weird problem has occured. Channel 1, which has a 1k at R3 is working flawlessly. Channel 2(which has 100k on R17) on the other hand is doing something strange. It’s working all fine outside the enclosure, but when I put it in it gets gainy and bright...

Hey guys! I just started building a paragon, but discovered I’m out of 1u film caps. If I replace them with electrolytics or tantalum, should they be the same way as c20 and c9? Or could just c20 and c9 be replaced with 2u2 electrolytics and leave c8 and c19 open? peace

Nice to let me know, I’m actually planning on using cheap 1n34a in my next klon-style build. Definitely gonna make them easy replaceable.

The day will come! But it’s really cool to hear other your experiences. I’m still a bit scared of it, but it’s en excited kinda scared, not paraplegic fear 😊

Yeah and I don’t know what bugs me more.. That I sold it way to cheap or the fact I wish I hadn’t sold it at all. Saw a verobuild for at it tagboard effects. Very tempted, but as I said.. so many others to get done first.

I will definitely build it at some point! But I have more than enough projects to get through first. And I think I’ll probably build a ce-2 first. Sold mine for 80$ before I discovered that there was a market to sell it for loads more.

Anyone ever tried this build? I read through their build docs and in lack of better words it’s nothing short of sexy. But I feel like I need more practise before trying it.

Yeah an audio probe would be my next move here. Just follow the schematic point by point till you find out where the problem is.

Yeah it’s just crossing, got me confused. You should def get some isopropanol and clean that board though. Makes it easier to look for cold joints. Have you done a reflow?

Looks to me like you’ve soldered ground from the dc-input to the the positive on the board the the positive to negative.

Hahaha! Volvos are very popular in Norway, but probably as much as they used to be. They manage the winter here better than most brands. That seatbelt-thing I haven’t seen, but I live up north.. What the southerners are up to I don’t know.

In theory it’s very simple, but... The hard part is soldering the transistor to the adapter, but with the right tip and some practise it can’t be all that hard. Then you put some legs on the adapter and use it as a normal tranny.

I’ve decided to turn to smd and adapter boards. Might ruin a few in the beginning getting the technique down, but I think it will pay off in the long run.

After a few days of troubleshooting and not really getting anywhere with a pedal I simply had to build something else and what seemed like the easiest build waiting to be done was a greengage. And it was sooooo painless. Everything worked, no caps were too big(normal mistake I’ve done more than...

I'll do some scraping and see what happens! One thing I've forgot to mention is that it's built in a big chassis along a glory hole. The glory hole works just fine! But of course, there may be paint I havent noticed on Tommys side.

A little bit more testing showed that if I set the controls a little bit under the squeal-level I still get the squeals if I turn down the volume on my guitar a bit.

Still hoping for some advice on this one. I noticed today that if I touch both the strings on the guitar and some metal on the pedal(pot or switch) the squeal disappears. Any idea where that means I should look? I thought it might be something with C9, but I measure 5v so it should be fine...