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Yeah this is just how the pedal sounds. That clip sounds good.

Just wanted to add a bit to this thread. Anyone building this using TAPLFO-3C or TAPLFO-3D can access an extra 8 waveforms by putting a SPST switch between the two empty lugs for C7. Or just use two lugs of a SPDT. It switches between grounding pin 3 and leaving it unconnected. On the...

Just wanted to add this picture to the thread as it may be helpful to someone in the future. Found this good shot on instagram of how the caps are wired. Built by N.O.C. pedals

Thanks for the help as always 😁 good info here. I usually never use below 1k for any LED and everything looks good but may try lower with the green LEDs.

Would lowering the value of R14 to around 1k-3k have any negative impact on the LED/LDR? Or do they not have any effect on each other since they’re in parallel? The 10k is too much for the green bypass indicator LED I want to use. I have a Yellow 5mm from Tayda connected to R15 and the 10k...

They call it a “cover” but it’s just a gigantic pcb.

I checked all your resistors and they look correct. I’d try the audio probe or a multi meter that has a continuity setting next. Where did you get the 3207? It’s hard to see the writing on top in the picture so I can’t tell if it’s a Coolaudio brand. Just a few suggestions for your next build...

That’s cool! Nice job

It’s interesting how he got this interview after posting a video where he seemed genuinely sad about how some guys just can’t be reached lol. Gotta love Beato. 😂

There needs to be something separating the dual gang pot from the pcb. Like a small slip of cardboard taped into place so the pot doesn’t touch the back of the pcb. The two threads below should help. If neither of these procedures work then it’s probably a component issue like a wrong resistor...

The price seems to have gone up a bit from the $35 pre order but it’s still available at Ameoba with free shipping. Seems like a bunch of online record shops have it available too but will most likely charge shipping...

Can you talk more about the Hyperspace pedal and what you did to create it? I’ve been looking for a way to somewhat replicate that effect for a while. I remember seeing somewhere that Tom used an old echoplex with a modded volume pedal that went up & down and also side to side to control two...

I’m in the process of building it and made a full parts list with direct links to Mouser and Stomp Box Parts if anyone is interested. I chose all the most affordable parts to keep the total price down. One thing to note is that a few parts are specific. The rotary switches have to be the metal...

Recently I’ve been playing around with the Hyperion circuit and noticed the JHS Astro Mess uses two 2n2907a transistors with a switch to go from one to the other. One of the positions has the transistor backwards for more gating. After looking at the schematic I realized it’s possible to wire...

When you say the bypass switch “kills signal to the amp” you mean when the pedal is switched on and the LED is on right? Your bypass switch looks like it’s wired correctly so it should bypass clean signal when switched off. I would get a multi meter and check the continuity of all the traces. I...

Make sure you have continuity between all the traces. Most multimeters have a function for it where it’ll beep when there’s continuity between two points. I had a Low Tide I built with two broken traces under the solder mask that drove me nuts for a bit. Sometimes it’s just a manufacturing defect.

So I did some more poking around with the DMM and figured out it was yet another broken trace. Attached a jumper and like magic the gate works. Looking at the schematic the Jumper goes from the left side of R46 to the junction where R67 & R68 connect. There was zero continuity between those...

So I thought I had this one solved but only had it half solved. The trace I fixed took care of the power issue and now the pedal works and sounds almost as it should. I came back to it recently and realized the only thing that doesn’t work is the Gate. I read all the threads on how to set it but...

Sorry to dig up an old thread for an off topic question but was just curious why the pedalpcb version has the octave down as a toggle instead of a foot switch like the original. I know it’s easy to wire up as one but is there more of an advantage to having it as a toggle instead? Gonna be...

I’ve had good luck in the past with messaging Tayda about parts that are out of stock on their website. I usually just ask when they’ll be back in stock. A few times they updated the stock the same day. Might be worth a try.