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This the first pedal I’ve built in a while and the wiring/soldering shows, but it works (after the oscillation incident). It’s been super cold so the clear coat orange peeled on me no matter how warm I tried to keep it.

I have a few I've been messing with getting my feet wet. The SeaMoon is from a while back. The RatBender is a just a Rat and Tonebender mixed together with a rotary switch to select diodes's for clipping. I'm sure I skimmed that off someone (probably here). I have yet to order those and verify...

Here’s what I ended up with. I only had MP38a transistors in NPN so I just keep trying combos of diode/zener with each one till I got decent voltages. Damn thing sustains for dayyyyyyyys.

Never mind. I had another circuit breadboarded and forgot to disconnect the “out” jumper. Jeesh. 🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄

Populated the board and have it air wired to my prototyping pcb and transistors are all full lead length yet. Have the diode socketed and the zener alligator clip wired to try different ones. Lots of wire hanging everywhere, so that may be the problem. Using the following transistors with...

Thanks. I didn't think it would be a problem, but thought I'd ask more experienced minds that mine.

I have a couple of pcb pin footswitches laying around and was wondering if anyone has used these directly soldering wires to the pins? Seems like a wrap or two od 22-24awg and a dab of solder would work fine. I have a handful of 3PDT boards, but you'd have to really lay on the solder and fill...

It does sound good. I don't know if Cees ever produced a board for it or not. I had looked at it at one time when he first announced the design, then forgot and the next thing I know he's gone.

Here are the build docs for the Artiflex Boost and UV print file.

Here are the build docs for the Equanimity Harmonic Tremolo along with a UV Print file that Cees had sent me.

Here is the build doc for Cee's Gyravibe along with a sampling Cee's did.

Added the pot connections and swapped the two rotary switch connections so the LED indicators were getting 9V.

I did a convert to pcb, but manually placed the components. I get no errors when verifying or testing against the schematic. I need to check my switch pattern though. It still seems incorrect.

Good catch. I’ll tie the wiper to pin 3 on both of those. Missed those in the schematic. I just want the LED indicator to show what set of diodes are selected. Looks like I’ve got power going to the clipping diodes from the shared RLED and not the LED indicators in the pcb layout. Also, ground...

Dammit. I have my switch wired backwards 🙄 LEDs aren’t gonna light up with no power!

I've used Diptrace for some very simple PCB's (rotary switch boards for example), but wanted to try something more ambitious. Soooooo, here we have the usual Tonebender with a rat output, but I wanted to add a rotary switch for 4 clipping diode selections. Here's what I have so far, but I'm...

Here’s my version of the Reeves Supa J. Built in a radio control box from the early 1940’s. I put the diodes on their own switch so I could engage them with either circuit. I need to figure out knobs for it (or maybe not).

Thinking ahead I should just make some switch PCB’s with phoenix connectors to mount to the protoboard for adding easy toggle switches.

I’ve been just using the breadboards for years, but the protoboards makes it a lot less messy. I wish it had spots to mount switches though. In the case of the Supa, there are three spots where I have to jumper to hear the differences. Most the time it isn’t an issue though.

Finally got my protoboard populated and thought the Reeves Supa-J would be a good first use. I like this circuit, but think I’ll put the diodes on their own switch.