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If they don’t work, I’ll dispose of them for you. :)

TL;DR — I am dumb, overpopulated the board, jammed up the voltages, and caused pedal no worky. Pulled extra components and read correctly = pedal worky. Some of you may have been following along with The Idiot’s Guide to Building A Deeptronic Freeze Pedal. Today, we finish the guide. Final...

There’s space, but it makes me nervous because the tab has the 3.3V flowing through it. I put heat shrink on it for safety. I’ll post a build report since it’s up and running.

Awesome. I like the art of the pedal in the upper right. Upper middle reminds me of the purple/orange you get at sunset around here.

I turbo-dumbed it again. Grabbed the wrong regulator. All the voltages are correct.

Update: Positives — voltages are better by the TL072. Nothing weird happening. Have to remember to put a ground wire from the audio ground area to the DC jack ground (it’s still on my workbench and not boxed). Case in point: RTFM. Negative — still weird voltages off the voltage regulator...

That’s good enough for a keeper for me! Regarding the LfO.. so, I have a version that is partially SMD, partially through hole that had an LFO that stalled. Your first choice to go film caps seems to be a good first step. Second would be to look at the transistor and make sure it has enough...

I bought a cheap Aneng M108. It helped me calibrate my flintlock so far. Hasn’t helped me figure out the audio issues…

Weyulllllll. Maybe I overstuffed it and couldn’t read. Sometimes me do dumb. Lemme reread and repopulate the board.

Here’s a couple pictures. Ignore the terribleness of the pots, etc. I’ll get those cleaned up once it gets boxed. Left is back side, right is top side. DC comes in from the upper right. Odd thing: tying the 1/4” jack ground to DC ground causes the voltage divider for the TL072 to go from...

Okay, here we go. New 2n5457. Have sound through the pedal! But it’s really really muffled. So far, I have the clocks and frequency calibrated, but I’m still losing audio/minimal output right around Q1. I did replace the diodes, checked the resistors, etc. I had just temporarily put the 2n5457...

I’ll see if I can get them tomorrow. I’m starting on the Flintlock Flanger first. Progress, but still beating my head.

Update: still weird. I’ll post more, but with no regulator in, all 3 pins get full voltage. Voltage divider doesn’t hit 4.5V. Putting in the new regulator outputs nothing. This is a weird one. I’m thinking it’s coming down to the Audio Ground and Digital Ground needing to be tied together at...

Oh yeah, the “idiot screwed something up”: I didn’t get one of the ICs seated correctly in the socket. 3 pins had bent over

Welp, after moving from the swear words to “jeez, the idiot overlooked something”, I have stumbled upon a functioning ODR-C from AionFX. Quick testing straight into a power amp (I know, I know) sounds darn good. It’s not YATS - there’s a LOT more going on. It cleans up nice, the...

The tight fit’s like, your opinion, man. (The graphics and knob choice are fantastic)

As long as it’s a 3.3V regulator, it’ll work. I really appreciate it. You guys are the bestest. At least my mistake can be guidance for others.

I believe so. I swear I double/triple/quadruple checked pinouts and the board

Welp, went to the data sheet: yep matches what’s on board. So I pulled it and put it on a breadboard temporarily. Come to find out pinout is reverse on mine from data sheet. So, that’s a plus. Downside: no extras. Probably going to use one of my bigger 78l05 and then make a voltage divider to...

Okay, so this past weekend I’ve been batting 0 fer every single dang pedal. But this one has me a bit stumped. When I take out the diode from the DC (which goes to the 3.3V regulator), I get normal voltage but obviously nothing to the rest of the pedal. If I reverse it, I get about 9V on the DC...