Abyss Zvex Style

falco_femoralis

Well-known member
Hi all, today I build an Abyss. Spoiler: the LFO has issues

Marking out the layout. I'm doing a horizontal build for this one
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Here is some of the wiring. I off boarded 3 of the pots. The RGB wires you can see here are for the top center pot. They go around and underneath to its position between the Rate and Throb pots, which are mounted to the PCB. The board is mounted slightly off center, which I did to fit the footswitch. I accomplished this by mounting the rate and throb pots into the enclosure, then feeding their legs into the solder pads on the pcb, then working the pcb over such that it bent the pots' legs in just the right way. After that I solder it up.
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The wiring is done. I snuck the footswitch wires under the board. I tried to hide as much wiring as I could, the ground wire being the exception
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Love to see it
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And it's finished!
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I have to redo the enclosure due to my misunderstanding of how space works. This isn't good enough to be a keeper, and it's certainly not good enough to sell. Also, the LFO isn't working. I used two layers of painter's tape on the bottom of the rate pot, which I'll have to revisit.

Outside of that, it came out great! My pedalboard is optimized for these horizontal pedals so I like doing them. I wish the indicator LED pulsed with the LFO, but that's ok. Maybe I can figure out how to work that out.

Edit - I swapped the painter's tape on the back of the rate pot for a trimmed up pot insulator, and the LFO has the same issues. I spent some time with the back of the pedal off watching and listening

The Voice control changes the brightness of the LFO led. It ranges from full CCW making the LED flash between off and dim, to full CW making the led flash from super bright to not as bright. The amplitude difference between the two phases of the LED seems to remain the same, it's just that its center point is moved up or down in brightness according to the Voice control. This in turn affects the resistances of the LDR's and changes the way they filter the circuit.

The Intensity control (Depth on my pedal bc there wasn't room to write Intensity) is interesting. It controls the max brightness of the LED, but it's doing some weird stuff with mine. If the intensity knob is centered, I can make the Rate control as fast or as slow as I want it and the LFO will not stall. If the Intensity control is full CCW or full CW, the LFO will slow to a stop IF the Rate control is set low. Changing the Voice control does not affect this.

If the LFO stalls out and I return the Intensity control to centered, it will eventually start again without changing the rate control, however, maxing the rate to full CW does speed this process up. So the LFO issue seems to be related to both the Rate and Intensity controls, but not the Voice, which is important because all 3 are part of the LFO circuit.

If I center the Intensity control then the pedal works ok. But I like to max the intensity on my vibes so this isn't going to work for me as is.

After looking over the diagram, I think there is an issue with one or more of the capacitors charging in the LFO circuit. I don't know as much about EE stuff as I'd like so I'm going to have to try stuff and see what happens. I wonder if the polarity of C11 is correct. It's positive side is facing the VCC, but R21 may be interfering with this? I really don't know. Being that it's only a 1uF, I'm going to swap it with a film cap. While I'm at it I may as well do the same for C12 and C13, since they are the same value. If this doesn't work I'll have to do some big learning.
 
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That’s good enough for a keeper for me!

Regarding the LfO.. so, I have a version that is partially SMD, partially through hole that had an LFO that stalled. Your first choice to go film caps seems to be a good first step. Second would be to look at the transistor and make sure it has enough gain. Good luck with the cap change.
 
I’m curious about your pedalboard. Horizontal 125bs look cool until I think about laying them out on a pedalboard.

Here's my playing out board, a Pedaltrain nano
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And here's my "at home" board, which is the size of a Pedaltrain Metro 20, but dual tier with the front tier just a half inch off the ground. Both levels are angled toward the player about 10 degrees. I want to build another with tighter spacing but maybe 2-4" wider.

vcdBnor.jpeg
 
Here's my playing out board, a Pedaltrain nano
XjD2lAm.jpeg


And here's my "at home" board, which is the size of a Pedaltrain Metro 20, but dual tier with the front tier just a half inch off the ground. Both levels are angled toward the player about 10 degrees. I want to build another with tighter spacing but maybe 2-4" wider.

vcdBnor.jpeg
Looks great! I guess I hadn’t thought about the advantage of being able to run basically a row and a half.
 
Here's my playing out board, a Pedaltrain nano
XjD2lAm.jpeg


And here's my "at home" board, which is the size of a Pedaltrain Metro 20, but dual tier with the front tier just a half inch off the ground. Both levels are angled toward the player about 10 degrees. I want to build another with tighter spacing but maybe 2-4" wider.

vcdBnor.jpeg
Awesome. I like the art of the pedal in the upper right. Upper middle reminds me of the purple/orange you get at sunset around here.
 
I spent some time with the pedal today

Starting by removing the PCB etc from the enclosure. I originally used a 470 ohm resistor for R26, so I swapped that out for the spec 100r
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Then I removed the Rate pot so I could access solder points underneath and have it sit a bit neater now that it has a full dust shield underneath, rather than two layers of painter's tape
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I'm beginning to swap out some of the LFO's caps with films. I don't have tantalums on hand
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These two had to be mounted underneath. I bent their legs over with needlenose so they would fit the elec leg spacing. Idk if this was necessary, but they were only 1uf so didn't need to be electrolytic
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I'm going to install an external Rate LED, so I removed D2 and made up a new one. I fed the cathode of the LED thru its solder pad but I bent the anode over between two of the LDR's and soldered a wire to it. Then I soldered a second wire into the anode solder pad on the PCB from underneath. This gets me a tap for a series connection. I used heat shrink to prevent any shorts
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There was space under the pot for the yellow wire to stick out
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I squeezed it down so the LDR's only had to be adjusted a small amount
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I'm making use of that "extra" hole on the back of the enclosure. Here I'm grinding down a 10mm LED so it will have a square profile. Trying something new
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After some sanding up to 1500 grit (highest I had)
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Here I'm testing out the action of the Intensity knob. Unfortunately the LFO circuit in this pedal is limited and the best way to prevent it from stalling out when the Intensity control is too far CW or CCW like I described above was to introduce a resistor at each end of the Intensity control. This way instead of the wiper shorting against either lug 1 or 3, it always meets some kind of resistance and the LFO doesn't run out.

Here in this pic I'm experimenting with setting the Intensity control at a certain point and seeing if it stops the LFO. If it does then I'll turn the pot back a tiny bit, disconnect and reconnect power, and see if the LFO stops again. Once I find the point where it doesn't stop, I'll disconnect power and check the pot for resistance with the meter. I tried this a few times to get a reliable reading. I ended up with a set of 2.7k's on each end of the pot
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Installed. I'm running out of the correct heat shrink
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Now for the LED. I widened the hole and centered it more. The flange of the LED happened to sit right against the backing nut for the DC jack, and was the same thickness, so I installed a second nut such that it held pressure against the back of the LED and kept it in. The Vol pot also butts right up against the LED, so I just had to hot glue around the rest. That worked out. This whole thing is not ideal but I want it to look intentional and finished.
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Wired up and ready to be squeezed back in
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Finally there
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And we're back together!
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The pedal works better now. The Intensity knob is now fully functional. I can turn the intensity knob (depth on my pedal) or the rate knob anywhere and it will not stall.

In one of my posts here I shared a link to a forum post where a member mentions the original Depths pedal having this issue, of the intensity knob causing the LFO to stop turn turned past 3 o clock, and that EQD themselves mention that is a consequence of the LFO design.

If you were building this from scratch the only modification you'd need to make is the pair of 2.7ks on either end of the Intensity control. I don't really think the film caps in place of the electrolytics did much to improve anything, but they are at least higher quality. I really like what the Throb and Voice controls do, but I wish the LFO section was more like the original univibe, or the Photon Vibe. It's pretty though
 
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^ thanks, yeah it was a compromise. I pulled an amateur move and drilled the hole for the DC jack in the wrong spot, so I was trying to make use of it. If I'd planned on a rate LED from the start I would have either made it the indicator LED or used a bicolor so the indicator LED would flash a gradient of two different colors along with the rate.

I'm thinking of sanding around the profile of the bulb so it has more of a homogenous illumination. I may still just redo the enclosure
 
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