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    USB Power

    So, from my understanding, the USB could provide more current (0.5A). Using a 3W DC-DC converter like the one below could make the usb power more versatile ? Would the regulator still be fine (spec 1A, my guess is yes), and the caps ...
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    USB Power

    Oh, that makes perfect sense 🤦‍♂️ I was starting to wonder wtf was going on with the L4. I'll see what happens when I receive the bigger dc/dc for my next 4 tap.
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    USB Power

    13.3v in 9.09v out So that part should be good. Edit, so I plugged in my Artemis mkii, everything's fine with the usb power. Even when plugged, it stays at 9v. On the L4, once plugged, the voltage drops between 3.5-4v ...
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    UPS v. DHL (Tayda Shipping)...

    My lasts experiences with DHL was also less than great, giganormous fees and would not respect indications... But my last orders from Tayda, they finally offer an all fees prepaid shipping option that costs about the same as Thailand Post and I received my package 2 days earlier than expected.
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    USB Power

    Well that was fast, here is Kevin's answer : I'm measuring the current draw at 190mA. It may vary a bit depending on what type of LEDs are used, but a 200mA supply should be safe!
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    USB Power

    I just sent him a message about that, never did because he kind of makes it clear he will not give any support so I did not bother.
  7. N

    USB Power

    No idea about the requirement of the L4 ... I asked here but got no response (I was expecting that) I've played on a battery for about half an hour with no problem, then it started whistling... the battery was getting hot. After a while, I can use that battery again but it will soon start...
  8. N

    USB Power

    I'll check that tonight. Just to be sure, I need to measure between ground and output pin ?
  9. N

    USB Power

    Here are the parts I used https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/755-BA17809CP-E2 https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/919-ROE-0512S
  10. N

    USB Power

    Not sure where I messed up... I did not take the exact parts from the BOM for the DC-DC and the voltage regulator, maybe I missed something because they look like equivalent parts. Yesterday, I had problems with my L4 running on battery, so I thought that it was a good time to test the USB...
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    SOLVED Crackling and popping noises from Parentheses Fuzz

    How's the sound when it's working properly? Is it to your taste ? I ask this because there is a lot of socketed diodes and if you like the sound you could clip the leads a little and solder them in. Maybe start by wiggling them a little while playing. I'm also not a fan of exposed wires at the...
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    Shorting Jacks?

    There is also a lot of mono miswired :ROFLMAO:
  13. N

    DC Jacks: 2-pin vs 3-pin

    Exactly, the terminal with the big L shaped tab is going to your center pin.
  14. N

    DC Jacks: 2-pin vs 3-pin

    The switching makes it so your battery is disconnected when power is plugged in. You then don't have to unplug your input cable to keep the battery disconnected. Since you don't use a battery, what do you mean by "both +", you install the connector but don't put a battery in ?
  15. N

    Even more new Tayda colors!

    Oh no, I've made my order last week, should have waited.
  16. N

    Collateral FX White Russian (Big Muff content)

    I just realised there is more than one. How many of those did you make ? They are gorgeous !
  17. N

    Next in the highly inspired series - the dream fuzz

    Thank you both !
  18. N

    Violet Ram's Head advice

    It's next on my series too. I'll breadboard it before just to be sure.
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    Violet Ram's Head advice

    The answer you are looking for might be in the muffin fuzz build doc. Look for stomp.
  20. N

    Next in the highly inspired series - the dream fuzz

    And it sounds as it should, which is a plus! Still I prefer the green russian to this one, but that one is not bad.
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