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Gotta find the Harry Klipton of CRATEs Edit: Stoopid autocorrect

I think you could hack this with a PUT (2n6027)and a couple diodes. Input voltage to anode. Diode to gate. Need at least 0.35v drop below anode. Then take the cathode out to wherever the ON switch is. Use another diode to drop the voltage to the required level (so if it's a 5v relay, use a 5v1...

Flat spot is emitter. EBC pinout What PCB are you populating?

Tis the season for ESDing. Take care with eeproms, logic chips and bbds.

Actually, at least from the photos, leg 15 *may* need a touch-up. Dab of flux and a kiss from the iron won't hurt. There's some new guy soldering fv-1s over at ppcb

Sounds like an issue with the eeprom or interconnects to it That's the internal programs you are hearing. Pull the eeprom(note, they are ESD sensitive) and test for 3.3v, ground and check resistance to the legs 6/14 and 7/15 eeprom/fv-1. I wouldn't use diode mode here. Use resistance. Some...

Check clock on pine 9/10 if your DMM has a freq count feature or you have an oscope Lift one side of R5 and see if the internal programs work.

Maybe? https://aionfx.com/project/elysium-ambient-delay/

I believe what you seek is refered to by the youths as a "selfie stick"

Did you check the PCBGM Facebook troubleshooting group?

Lifting 7 would lift ground. That's odd. Is it possible you have a bridge under the socket or a cold/broken joint that is getting flexed enough to cause intermittent connection?

Should still pass effected signal in some variation of switch positions IF: 1)LEDs are removed 2)LED power wasn't shorted to FV1 pins 16 and 17 via wrong seitches and fried it

Who's is better? This can only be settled with a cave man riff off!

I think you have a short. check for stray wire strands on you DC in and solder bridges.

Or Kinjitsu kōkai

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https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/AMT_Legend_Series_II_Drive_Channel_ONLY_ba371f97.html