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Definitely excited for this one!

I have no experience with this effect but if people are saying that the headroom is not great in all builds, maybe try at 18v?

I wonder how @Robert feels about the component layout on that board?? 😂

People need to bookmark both the above posts!

I have a Tonebender board I am putting together and I want to be able to play around with transistors before committing and I don’t want a circuit to live on a breadboard permanently. I think I might have one board as a tester board with sockets before soldering the transistors into another board.

@joelorigo - I would start from scratch with the TS now the klon is working. I’d check op amps have the correct voltage and then Audio probe.

Thanks @Betty Wont

Does anyone know of transistors sockets in a TO-5 package that aren’t astronomically expensive? I am not a fan of using split off inline sockets. The one below is $2.50 for one!

That is next level @Guilherme Collateral The John Mayer link is a good one. That enclosure looks so good!

Awesome work! You can’t beat the holy trinity! Have you thought about an SMD Layout and then get somewhere like JLCPCB to populate for you to save time? The looks like a monster to build.

@dan.schumaker - I have had loads of issues with uploading the CPL and BOM files previously and could never get it to work but I’ve had a breakthrough today with this PCB and managed to get it working! The amount you fit in a 1590A is beyond belief! 😂

It’s good to keep this thread alive. It’s alway interesting to see what people are doing with making their own PCB layouts. Here’s a combined fuzz/octafuzz. Has anyone used JLCPCB SMD soldering service? I plan to use this for this build.

Why not get rid of the 51k output resistor to ground (or reduce to 22k or so) and use a 100k trimmer on the output as a volume control? You could use it just to knock a bit of volume off as a set and forget to get unity with the boost at minimum but then still use the boost to increase the volume.

This looks great @KindCanuck What fv do they mullard diodes test as? I love the “magic” printed on the PCB.

#NSFW Wiring Porn

I wouldn’t cut the trace personally. I would remove C1 then send pad one of where C1 should be to pin 1 of your clean pot. Solder the 100N to lug 2 of the pot then send a wire from the other side of the 100N to pad 2 of where C1 was. Hope that makes sense.

Yep that’ll work. I am planning that for my Tonebender I’m due to build soon. I think @Big Monk is a fan of the pre-gain control to tame the sounds as well.

Even though you have left clearance from the board, the top and bottom row of pots are touching. Bend the two bottom B100Ks up to make sure they are not touching and see if you get the normal amount of repeats. “Pot condoms” are alway helpful!

Are your lower row of pots shorting out against the board? Put a piece of plastic between and retest to see if that changes it.!

Looks awesome @HamishR