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Thanks for posting the background to your build, it's great to hear community stories on the kindness of strangers. Definitely a complex build, but I've been blown away by how many unique sounds can come out of a single circuit. The way it reacts to less aggressive playing styles is a bit of a...

Agreed, those joints I believe are for the LM13700, which the voltages looks fine for except for pin 16. Pin 1 & Pin 16 are the OTA control inputs, and should be the same voltage. Both of your JFET ( Q1 & Q4) voltages also look off. My Q1 voltages were around : Drain - 4.5V Source - 1V Gate -...

Do you offer combined shipping on multiple items? I'm thinking about getting some BBDs + clock chips

Good to hear that wasn't a bridge! You can determine which is the Gate pin of the transistor by using a multimeter, but not the Drain/Source as they're generally interchangeable in JFETs. That's usually enough to get the pinout though. Basically, you should get continuity (0 ohms) with the red...

The Pathogen's array of voltage dividers is not something I've really seen before: The only reason I can think of for generating separate 1/2Vcc bias voltages is due to the huge differences in impedance for the various bias points. You can see that VREF_A & E needs to bias a high impedance...

I looked in to it a while back and it's the same circuitry as the Broadcast, but with a silicon 2N4033 transistor in place of the Ge transistor, and an OEP Z1643E transformer instead of the TY-141P (both 10K:10K CT transformers).

If you're getting the issue with the Mix at 0% and 100%, then the input & output stages are your most likely culprits (not the delay/LPG/modulation circuits). An audio probe would definitely identify which stage in particular is the problem. Have you tested the JFETs to see if they are real &...

No, just use less if it's a larger diameter solder wire. The size of your soldering iron tip is more important. If you have a larger tip, you'll probably have to go for the drag soldering method rather than soldering individual pins.

I would use an audio probe to track the signal starting at your input jack. If it drops of before the PT2399 inputs, thats where your problem is.

Are you doing an entire SMD board in a hot air reflow oven or just soldering an FV-1 and the rest is through-hole? For just soldering a few SMD parts on a through-hole board, regular leaded solder works fine. If you have a small enough tip, you can continue to solder each pin individually like...

1A is more common and works fine.

You are correct in that there is no diode clipping stage as the overdrive sound comes from the JFET muamp stages (each pair of 2 vertically stacked JFETs is a muamp gain stage). You could add a diode clipping stage, but there are some easier options to try first. The clipping character of this...

I do the same thing as #4 but never had a term for it, it will now forever be known as "scooting the insulation" in my head canon.

You could always use a daisy chain DC cable if that's an issue. Or even add a second "DC Output" jack to pedals that have low current draw.

There are generally two approaches to grounding: Star Ground - All circuit & jack grounds connect to the same shared ground point - like one jack, pot or PCB ground. All the ground connections "star outward" from this single point. Daisy Chain - Ground is passed along from one circuit to...

This is great advice. You should be fine as those two boards don't have any potentially problematic elements like digital circuits or LFOs. I haven't really had an issue with interference or noise in 2-in-1 builds, but I do twist signal/power & ground wires for longer runs. If you really want...

I think your MN3102 might be a fake. Normal Matsushita/Panasonic BBD & clock ICs will have an inner raised frame that is a different texture to the outer edge. Your MN3207 looks fine, but the MN3102 has signs of being sanded & rebadged: it lacks the raised inner frame and the pin 1 marking dot...

There are 2 ways to program your own effects on the FV-1: Native assembly language (more here) - This programming language is much more complex & less intuitive than what a microcontroller (like an Arduino) uses, but is necessary for creating efficient & complex programs - Most "professional"...

So I actually built this up on a breadboard a while back based on the schematic on that build doc. I just fired it up to confirm, but I had to flip the direction of that Bass pot to get it to work in the right direction. I'll go through and figure out how exactly I modified it, but I'll post...