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If you're referring to the Bassdude pedal, clicking it on and off bypasses the preamp but does not remove power to the tubes. So when I say the tubes need time to warm up that means from the time power is plugged in to the time the pedal passes signal. If your Bathtub reverb takes time to start...

Question number one is always going to be, what power supply are you using with the pedal? If the supply isn't capable of providing enough current, then the output won't be as high as it should be and it will be noisy. Also if the power supply is straining to heat the tube, it's going to take...

Actually the XLR daughterboard for sale in the extra daughter board section is the transformer XLR board that comes with Nobelium and Steddi Go, but I can absolutely make these available as well.

I've had this one ready to go and actually had boards on hand since about August, I just couldn't be bothered to write the damn build doc. I got it all together today, so this thing is up for sale now. It's kind of a neat circuit, it's pretty similar to a Fender Bandmaster/Alembic F-2B preamp...

Let me see how many I have, I can probably arrange that.

I still call them BLMS, because they've always been Bitches Love My Switches to me. They've officially dropped the B on their website, but I still have some stickers around with the "proper" name.

Tayda or Stompboxparts, depending on what I need.

I have a dozen or so lying around that I'm unlikely to do anything with, they're yours to grab next time you're in the neighborhood. Maybe I'll finally actually invite you over for a screenprinting day over the holiday break if you're around :p

A moot point when pots are being mounted on a pickguard rather than rear-mounted through the wood, which is why I've only done tube preamp builds into P and J basses.

The power plane is a split plane with a HV section and a 9V section. I can pull a picture when I get home and show which is which, I'm in the bleachers at a swim meet right now

Oh weird, I was pretty sure I had the artwork file set up properly, I'll take a look. I wonder if they don't like the order. It would need to be printed gray -> white -> black and it looks like they printed it white -> gray -> black. And good note about the extra cap on the BOM. I have a BOM...

I mean I could build you a Steddi Go and ship it to Australia, I still send things down there from time to time. Let me know if the other options don't pan out and we can figure something out for you.

Agreed with @jwin615 there, if you use a film cap instead of a tantalum then it will not affect the pedal working or not. If our hypothetical friend wanted to post some pictures of this hypothetical build I'm sure the sharp people on this forum would be happy to take a look and see if anything...

Sendcutsend absolutely can. They quoted me $171 a piece.

I mean at that point I just open my own machine shop and do it all myself. So if that's considered "bringing american manufacturing back", sure.

I'm looking at getting some custom machined aluminum pieces for a project I'm working on. Apparently Chinese aluminum is still subject to 100% tariffs, meaning my $25 parts cost $50 a piece from China. I told myself surely there was a domestic supplier that could beat that on a simple aluminum...

My personal opinion is that a variable passive HPF will not be incredibly useful as you're still dealing with a rolloff of 6dB/octave. You'll get much better results with an active filter like the Fdeck (my personal favorite) or Broughton.

They are not completely separate circuits, if you look at the schematic in the build doc you'll see that both outputs use the first tube as the "core preamp", then the signal for the XLR output goes out through a transformer and the signal for the 1/4" output goes out through a white cathode...

I agree with Tassie here, if you don't need the 1/4" output I would recommend leaving out the second tube. Is it possible to turn Nobelium into a tube overdrive? Sure, but that isn't what Nobelium was designed for and it doesn't lend itself particularly well to overdrive. I consider Nobelium to...

That is correct. It is indeed. I intended to have the voltmeter always active so I could monitor the battery voltage constantly, but I was getting some noise in the preamp when the voltmeter was active, so I added the red momentary pushbutton there to check the voltage so I can mute the preamp...