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They do: https://www.lcsc.com/mobile/products/JFETs_11157.html?keyword=MMBFJ201&s_z=n_MMBFJ201

I’m experiencing brief audible oscillation upon applying power to LM386 headphone amp circuits. Is adding a common emitter stage with a large cap from base to ground before the output a good way to introduce a time delay before audio is output once power is introduced?

It’s part of an active low pass filter that performs a band pass anti aliasing function. Given those cap options, I’d use the 220pF. If it’s performing okay and you’re not getting any clock artifacts, you could be fine with the 100pF.

MPSA13 (unless Darlingtons are not being considered discrete)

If you like the neck, it may be easier to buy a new nitro body rather than stripping and refinishing the current poly one.

@vigilante398

How violently are you taking off your pants?

We’ve been over this.

Yeah that’d be my guess.

Don’t you Georgians call them ‘crans’?

It’s absolutely still funny looking. That poor thing looks like it has conjunctivitis and a black eye. But, I am glad that that goof is getting some pals to hang with.

That's what I thought 🙁

https://polarpower.com/products/dc-generators/8080y-40205-diesel-dc-generator/

You’d need a few if you wanted to plug your pedal into the power line outside.

Would they be less leaky if you used loctite?

He's back! Great to see a new video. I always enjoy hearing you talk about the artwork.

My understanding is that once the capacitor is fully charged, DC current into a capacitor stops, effectively blocking DC current.

What are you biasing the input to? Vref from a voltage divider? I’d probably want to add a cap to ground in series with R1 to avoid problems with DC offset, but, otherwise, that’s fine.

Thanks for sharing! The enclosure size in the title should be "1590XX" though.

Nice build! This is probably my favorite of Peter’s circuits. There are tactile SPST switches (e.g., carling) if that’s a big sticking point for you.