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On that first track, there's a bit of that kinda percussive sag that makes it sounds like the front end of a tube amp being demolished. I bet the Smallsound Bigsound Fuck would get you in the ballpark for a lot of that.

TC integrated preamp maybe? Not sure it’s much louder than anything else but it’ll have a lot more headroom than anything running at 9v

I think perhaps we just collectively don’t understand what the issue is and how turning the volume knob down fails to solve it.

You should really just try swapping the B-taper volume for an A-taper.

If you feel like giving vero a go, you could try a Haunt Fuzz: http://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2023/04/old-noise-endeavors-haunt-fuzz.html

Maybe a megalith (ppcb arkaim)?

Can you post some examples of what you're chasing?

You could put C2 on a switch and have a lo/hi gain toggle.

Yep, it's just a little scrap of stripboard coming off of the DC jack to tie all the grounds together.

It still rips.

I don't think there's a schematic for that one, but given that it's a fuzz pedal I'm going to make a dangerous guess that the BC107B is just doing normal NPN stuff and you could put pretty much anything in there to similar effect. BC547 is the modern equivalent of the BC107 - the letter is for...

Per the datasheet (as mentioned above) they're 12.7 x 1.0, but I need to figure out whether the barrels or the hex nuts are actually off-spec. I assumed it was the nuts, but it could just as easily be the barrels.

They slip over the barrel completely, unfortunately. Good point though - I should make sure the barrels aren't actually M12/metric or something like that.

I have a bag of these DC jacks that were sent with the incorrect hex nuts. Just curious if anyone happens to know of a source for the proper ones - I believe they're 12.7x1.0. They don't seem to be available at my normal spots.

fwiw, guitarpcb has red pot covers https://guitarpcb.com/product/the-original-pot-condom/

I can't see how any of those changes would make any sort of noticeable difference but if you happen to A/B please do report back! Also, per this note: for a V5 muff, R9 should not be connected to the R8/C5 net, but instead tied to ground from that end The two schematics are numbered...

I've used Thaliland Post to Canada Post twice iirc, and both times it took 2+ mos for the package to arrive and tracking updates were few and far between.

Old post, but fwiw, "47" is part of the IEC standards for resistor/component values.

The zener looks correct btw - 9.1V .5W.

I think the original uses a VTL5C3, but just a heads up - vactrols can be super inconsistent and you might want to order a bunch and socket the part to see how it affects the circuit.