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IT SHREDS NOW!!!! That’s more like it… thank you DGWVI I owe you big time. Thank you Benny also I learned something new.

ITS DOING IT AGAIN . The search for products on the upper left corner… it might be my phone it might not..

Wow I think the only thing the Russian has for it is that it’s green and different and I care more about sounds then the cosmetics… the nyc bmp sounds much nicer to my ears… I do like the ram head but I don’t see specs for the rams Head unless it’s referred to as something else in the building...

Wow eagle eye ! I owe you big time I think what I should do is start penciling in the values next to caps and resistors on the first page of the building documents.the best part is I can get to that cap without taking out a potentiometer.

Ok thank you I will swap it out in the morning thank you I learned something new… I appreciate the help

Would that be c14?

I’m not familiar with a feedback loop but that’s what this pedal sounds like there’s no feedback it’s very dull distortion.. I will give that a looksee. Here’s the schematics https://docs.pedalpcb.com/project/OrokuDrive.pdf

Hello folks I just put this together and it plays fine and all but the sound is very dull it sounds like my amp is covered in thousands of blankets.. there no real brightness or crunch.. it’s pretty bland and dull off a distortion… it doesn’t shred for sure… I’m wondering if the shredmaster is a...

Hello comrades I am curious about the Sovtek big muff fuzz I was wondering what the best way to go about recreating one… should I use the muffin fuzz with the green Russian specs? I’m skeptical I was just wondering is really only 40pf on a few capacitors really the difference? And also shouldn’t...

Yeah that’s exactly correct… he does want to turn on things individually. Wow I was just thinking about if a multi looper will work if just using the sends. I may have to tell him to go that route…I think this will work minus the returns

Yeah I’m super confused with using the breakout board …

I just confused the hell out of myself let me draw this again the switch should turn on the leds right and and the in and out should be used for the jacks right? I haven’t even gotten to think about the leds again let me draw something up clean slate again

I was thinking of dpdt or 3pdt maybe ran like true bypass way with all the switches linked together. I was thinking all switches will be able to turn each amp on and off individually regardless of where’s it at on the board .I’m going to draw something up just need another set of eyes to look...

Hello I know this may sound crazy but this guy I know has asked me to help him build like a ABY box with 4 ABY boxes in one… he thinking two inputs and 8-10 switchable outputs with leds that will be going to multiple amplifiers.. I’ve heard his sound and it does sound great… he’s using ABY...

Solved … I switched from the op-amp sockets I always use to the nice ones with the circle sockets… I noticed while soldering that they took some heat and didn’t really suck up the solder… I’m going back to the cheaper sockets… thanks for the help everyone.. I admit I rushed this build …

I had the type one on there and it didn’t work in any position…I must have a cold solder joint or some …… I figured it out just now tho!!

Wow ok … no solder touching no shorts the in and outs and 9v are correct and so are the caps and resistors… I admit bits not my best soldering work… there’s too much and a few may need a tiny bit more solder but it should work… the led lights up and there’s no sound when turned on.

I just put this Acer overdrive pedal together and it’s not working … I thought my on on on dpdt were type 2 and they were not… so I have type 2 Switch on order… I jumped the pcb with wires to trick it as if the switch was in the middle… well here’s my question shouldn’t a type one switch work in...

I’m dreaming of a dispatch master type also… but the the magnetic echo I built from here was A++!

Wow really that’s awesome news ! Never from other sources! Hahaha I’m loyal to the P.P crew