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Finally finished it. Sounds sooo good. Also got some more info about grounding pin 6 of the TAPLFO directly from Tom at Electric Druid. Essentially the Cherry Pie pcb was designed to be used with the TAPLFO 2C which didn’t have a smoothing filter so pin 6 was left unconnected. The TAPLFO 3C and...

I think what he's saying is that the middle position on head 4 is the "bonus". "ON 1" - regular mode (stock functioning, head 4 switch up, normal loudness) "ON 2" - bonus mode (head 4 switch in middle position, which would be quieter)

I built one of these last week and it sounds great. This is what I used: - 5mm yellow diffused LED from Tayda. This particular LED disperses the light really well from the top and all sides - better than others I’ve tried. Just a nicer full glow. They’re great for these kind of effects. -...

Those are definitely both type 2. I think Tayda only has one Type 1 available right now. It shows blue in the picture but they’re a maroon color and they’re not as good quality as the Dailywell. Had to use two for my PcbMania “Shoeman” PLL clone. Type 1...

Yeah this is just how the pedal sounds. That clip sounds good.

Just wanted to add a bit to this thread. Anyone building this using TAPLFO-3C or TAPLFO-3D can access an extra 8 waveforms by putting a SPST switch between the two empty lugs for C7. Or just use two lugs of a SPDT. It switches between grounding pin 3 and leaving it unconnected. On the...

Just wanted to add this picture to the thread as it may be helpful to someone in the future. Found this good shot on instagram of how the caps are wired. Built by N.O.C. pedals

Thanks for the help as always 😁 good info here. I usually never use below 1k for any LED and everything looks good but may try lower with the green LEDs.

Would lowering the value of R14 to around 1k-3k have any negative impact on the LED/LDR? Or do they not have any effect on each other since they’re in parallel? The 10k is too much for the green bypass indicator LED I want to use. I have a Yellow 5mm from Tayda connected to R15 and the 10k...

They call it a “cover” but it’s just a gigantic pcb.

I checked all your resistors and they look correct. I’d try the audio probe or a multi meter that has a continuity setting next. Where did you get the 3207? It’s hard to see the writing on top in the picture so I can’t tell if it’s a Coolaudio brand. Just a few suggestions for your next build...

That’s cool! Nice job

It’s interesting how he got this interview after posting a video where he seemed genuinely sad about how some guys just can’t be reached lol. Gotta love Beato. 😂

There needs to be something separating the dual gang pot from the pcb. Like a small slip of cardboard taped into place so the pot doesn’t touch the back of the pcb. The two threads below should help. If neither of these procedures work then it’s probably a component issue like a wrong resistor...

The price seems to have gone up a bit from the $35 pre order but it’s still available at Ameoba with free shipping. Seems like a bunch of online record shops have it available too but will most likely charge shipping...

Can you talk more about the Hyperspace pedal and what you did to create it? I’ve been looking for a way to somewhat replicate that effect for a while. I remember seeing somewhere that Tom used an old echoplex with a modded volume pedal that went up & down and also side to side to control two...

I’m in the process of building it and made a full parts list with direct links to Mouser and Stomp Box Parts if anyone is interested. I chose all the most affordable parts to keep the total price down. One thing to note is that a few parts are specific. The rotary switches have to be the metal...

Recently I’ve been playing around with the Hyperion circuit and noticed the JHS Astro Mess uses two 2n2907a transistors with a switch to go from one to the other. One of the positions has the transistor backwards for more gating. After looking at the schematic I realized it’s possible to wire...

When you say the bypass switch “kills signal to the amp” you mean when the pedal is switched on and the LED is on right? Your bypass switch looks like it’s wired correctly so it should bypass clean signal when switched off. I would get a multi meter and check the continuity of all the traces. I...

Make sure you have continuity between all the traces. Most multimeters have a function for it where it’ll beep when there’s continuity between two points. I had a Low Tide I built with two broken traces under the solder mask that drove me nuts for a bit. Sometimes it’s just a manufacturing defect.