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That's so crazy I might just try it! 🤔

These days, I buy right-angle pots. But I have a surplus of that type from the pre-modern stompbox era. (Pre-Madbean/PedalPCB.) (From back when I was etching TonePad projects.) At 20¢/board, I'd be saving money because I'd be able to put these old pots to use more easily:

+1. Very cool.

For an always-on boost that doesn’t distort, it sounds like you're wanting the Episode Booster.

How many overdrives are you up to now, Michael? Are you keeping count?

I love the combination of the spicy bridge and the sweet neck. That's a truly unique guitar there.

Holy lord, Michael, your clean tone is fantastic, as always. Great player, great guitar, great amp. Great combination. All 3 positions sound nice. (I assume switch-up is neck position? TV Classic Plus in the bridge?) The combination of the 2 in the middle position is especially complex and fun...

Oh, good to know. Thanks. I never really analyzed the Bypass board. It's the best thing to happen to DIY pedals ever. I wanna use it on everything I build now.

The problem was NOT the bypass board. None of you will be surprised to hear: the circuit works fine now. And I don't exactly know why. The official prognosis is: circuit freakout. Touching another electrolytic on the main board also made the sound cut out. Gripping the enclosure by both...

I cannot locate the short on this bypass board. I've reflowed all the wires and both sockets (IC and relay.) Resoldered the 2n3904 switch transistor, etc. Is there some edge case where the transistor won't switch? The reason I ask is because I'm using Intelligent Relay Bypass on everything...

Here's how I hot-glued my Zombii board into place: It gets used a couple times a year for recording. Wouldn't use it on a pedalboard tho.

Use the 9mm pots with bushings if it has to be road-worthy. (if not, I'd just use hot glue.) i know you said no hot glue. :)

Thank you. Sometimes the obvious isn't so obvious until you say it out loud. 🤣 This could quickly escalate into a roll-your-own-vactrol situation, especially since I have a grab bag of these guys…

I will experiment and report back. The spec sheets show significantly different ON and OFF resistances. Xvive VTL5C9 Xvive VTL5C1 Perkins VTL5C1 NSL-32R3 RON 1k5 25k 200Ω 60Ω ROFF 2M 20M 50M 25M TRISE 4ms 2.5ms 2.5ms 5ms TDECAY 50ms 35ms 35ms 10ms Resistance...

Thanks man. I don't even know what that resistor is supposed to do. I'm just in the mood to try everything! :)

A new thought: The ONLY knobs not working are THRESHOLD and the RATE. And both knobs are related to the vactrol response. I'm guessing the Vactol or vactrol resistor is the problem. (Mode switch seems ineffectual too.) All my NSL optos were purchased about 18 years ago from Allied. I'm a...

I have both revisions. It appears that no parts changed since the previous revision.

Any value in the DNL spot kills the envelope effect for me, even low values under 100Ω. I swapped the fake 2k rate pot with an actual 2k rate pot with no improvement. Was planning to run it at 12v, just to see if I could get up to 6.2v at the test point, but then remembered the giant axial...

That's why it's tempting me. Any sign that says "do not touch" makes me want to touch it. I covered it over with a white sticker so I wouldn't accidentally put anything there. Now I have to f-around and find out. ;)

I had a leftover VTL5C3 desoldered from the Meatsphere, so I just used that from my junk box. BTW, I had a perfectly working Meatsphere until the internet brainz convinced me it would sound better with a roll-your-own vactrol. It's envelope response got worse. And I broke one of the legs...