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breadboarding is the easiest way to find out if your thing works or not, and playing around with different components is the easiest way to learn what affects the sound

Damn that is a clean board

Nice artwork! I love the chili peppers

That wouldn't be a factor in why the pedal died. It's likely something moved around inside while pulling the pedal off the board, which landed on a trace somewhere, and when power was applied voltage was introduced to the short

Literally why they're called die-odes

I know that the coupling capacitor filters out any DC that may be present in the signal from the op amp, but what does the resistor do?

I see. The switch only disconnects the output when bypassed, leaving the input to load the pickups. Do you leave the input buffer in when changing to true bypass?

Excellent artwork! This morning I had a different kind of cream dream.

My switch is a dpdt, but it's weird because it's wired like a spdt. Each wire is extended to its neighboring pole. Idk why they would do that Can you explain more about the hardwired bypass, and the parallel path leading to decreased impedance? I have some BC109b's I can use, and I'll try...

I just picked up a used cry baby with a 2007 red PCB. It's in good shape and original. It has a red fasel inductor and MPSA18's. What should I try with it? I'm thinking an LED indicator and at least one external knob to adjust... something. Maybe overall range? Or Q? I'm playing around with...

102 or 103 don't have to be 4k7. They set the brightness of each LED. If you're using a blue LED you'd want to go a higher value resistor here, like 6k8. It's really not that crucial though. The only important thing about LED resistors is it can't be lower than like 390 ohms in this circuit at...

I'll take you up on that after all. I don't want to give up on it! :coffee:

I put my Mag Echo into this enclosure as the FV-1 was dead. The mag echo was one of the first pedals I made. Here's a reenactment of the inside of the enclosure Redoing the labels I had an extra hole so I made the tone control from the Cataclysm Delay and inserted into pin 3 of the feedback...

I'm not really into delay enough to justify spending any kind of money on it. I'm a chorus + overdrive + reverb kinda guy. The rate pot is connected on one side to the 3.3v regulator and on the other to ground. The middle peg goes straight into the FV-1 chip. I removed the leg that connects to...

Well, that didn't work. In hindsight, I could have been a bit gentler. I'm going to forego the DMD-2 and put something else in the enclosure.

You might try a metronome that has different sounds for different beats, like a high pitched click for count 1. That and one that subdivides into eighth notes or triplets for songs that are slower or swung. I use the Tempo app for these when I play drums and it has changed my life - it's so, so...

Thanks, I'll keep you posted. My plan is to see how it goes and perhaps swap it with the chip from my Spatialist, which isn't built yet. The solder from the one pin came up pretty easily so that's good. I'm trying to plan a technique for securing the chip back down. I've done SMD transistors but...

I have a Spatialist I could try, but last night I tried removing the EEPROM and taking a measurement - the result was the same

Hi all, I just made a DMD-2. The rate pot would not allow for adjustment of the modulation rate so I tracked it down to pin 21 of the FV-1 producing 0.68v. I lifted that pin from the circuit board to isolate it from any stray tracings and the voltage remains at the pin. My plan is to remove the...

Welp. I lifted pin 21 of the FV-1 (the one that connects to the Rate pot's middle leg) so I can isolate it from the circuit board. With the pin lifted, it still reads 0.68v. That's disappointing.