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I dig the graphic. Biblically accurate tonal transparency.

My bad @jcpst, my question was regarding this change @Robert mentioned.

So I should try this out once I start populating my board, is what I'm hearing here. Just to be sure I'm picking up what you're putting down: are the respective lugs still soldered to their holes and then connected by an additional wire? Or are the lugs lifted and then connected by said wire?

Great colors + I'm a sucker for clean diagonals in any design scenario! This is next in my latest batch of boards from Robert and I too love the wildness of the little PLL I've tasted so far. Extra stoked now 👍🏻

Whoaaa. This is incredibly up my alley. Anyone wanna make PCBs so you can take my money?

Thank you! As far as I can remember, yes that's the case. Mine was noisy only with the Gain dimed, as mentioned in my post. You might consider emailing Huntington Audio directly, though--dude is quick to respond and incredibly nice.

Update: I started with a fresh 3PDT and just wired it as normal sans the SW solder point. Put an indicator LED + 4.7k resistor between the switch's top-middle lug and the positive voltage leg of the 9V jack. It works as expected. Still no luck with testing the solder points of the Throb LED on...

TL;DR: The pedal function correctly and sounds great, I just can't get the LEDs working. So going off of this comment: My thought was "cool, I'll do that jumpering, then use one of those PPCB footswitch PCBs with the LED solder points to add my indicator LED." On the main board, GND and SW...

Nice work! Love that we have dog-, dinosaur- and bird-specific builders here, all of whom do some pretty damn intricate graphics work ☺️

Damn, son, that is sleek work! TS50B/Rusty Box cult eternal 🔥

Sorry for necroposting, but-- how would I wire this if I wanted an always-on version? It'd be a tabletop unit. Would love to diy a solution instead of throwing ~$400 at the Franklin Audio equivalent (I'm sure it's great! I'm just very unemployed).

Count me as interested as well, @mckillacuddy.

Adding to this, my (amateur/unverified) understanding is that for the analog pedals, powering modulation separately from gain/compression is highly recommended as well, otherwise things get noisy (in a bad way). That approach has certainly worked for me, anyway, though I must admit I shelled out...

To be clear, my hope was that the expression pedal could be optional and of course would use a switching jack. So a parked wah situation would be easy easy with the filter and a peak selection switch, but an expression pedal would let you get more actively funky with it in a real-time way while...

This is a level of clean spacial optimization some (COUGH me COUGH) can only dream of achieving. Bravo, man.

Beautiful work, that case absolutely pops. And between your and @rwl building this lately, and Chuck's mods that turn this into a hybrid with the Space Spiral and then some, this is high on my list to build next.

He just like me fr :')

1. PPCB Median Compressor Just built this in the last week and I am completely in love. Very much a fit for my needs. I love its sound and the ability to blend it with my original tone to taste. 2. PPCB Circulator Phaser (w/Boneyard mods) I can't praise this, especially with Chuck's mods...

One of the first things I built in this DIY pedal journey was the Fuzz Dog Deep Blue Delay/equivalent of the PPCB Sea Bed Delay, the Echo Blue Delay. I'm now building a Sea Bed for a friend but it's ultimately gonna be one-knob feedback machine more than any sort of traditional delay...

Nice! I should try this and see how it stacks up to the Crazy Horse circuit. I wonder how difficult it would be to splice in a voltage starve here...