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Those guys used the pretty standard only Dunlops you could buy back in the day. You'd be surprised how much you can change the sound of a wah, just by readjusting the the max the pot reaches on the toothed foot mechanism. Just need a screwdriver. Completely changes the sweep. But, I know...

Probes and fudge factories....alien abductions....

Oh crap, I wasn't looking. Thanks nostradoomus, my voltage comment was wrong. Yeah my profile picture was some old poster art I did for my band. I don't draw so many posters anymore.

I never really got much of an octave. Maybe a hint of one on a few frets. Not the best for that type of thing. Velcro and cools splatty sounds are good. Have the probe version that I get get whammy pedal type sounds and theremin stuff.

Milk, milk, lemonade, around the corner is where fudge is made.....sorry had too. Fuzz factories are fun, but the knob interaction is obnoxious at times. I have like two of three sounds I love and had to write down the settings.

The first two are power filtering. Not sure how much it will effect anything like noise if the values are different. It will probably be fine. 16v is fine for the circuit. The second project will probably effect the sound. You can put caps in parallel and add up to the value you need. In...

Just to throw in my two cents. My favorite all around smoothish fuzz is a peach fuzz. It can get to muff territory all the way to 60s raspy stuff closer to a tonebender. Plus it cleans up with the volume knob, which my muffs can't.

Saw this today. I've seen some people try it with success, but probably limited to guitar electronics as the value probably is hard to get right. Anyone ever wrap their own capacitors?

If it's a standard 3pdt switch it shouldn't matter.

The caps would need to be in parallel not in series. You could get a double throw switch and just have two wires run to the board cap. Then add any caps you want to add to the value. In series the caps will lower value. Like this but omit the middle cap and pretend it's the board cap...

Could be both. I would check the wires going to the board to the switch first before pulling anything. Bypass the switch with alligator clips if possible or an audio prob. Also check if the switch wiring is correct.

Not the original switch in there. That would be my first guess.

I just draw the schematic and any notes on the inside lid of everything I build. Mainly in case something eventually goes wrong.

You could try a 1M resistor to ground at the input and output. Alligator clip them in and test it.

Finished this up this week. This is my slightly tweaked version of an emulation or recreation of the drive gain circuit of a Silvertone 1484. There are a bunch of schematics of these online. Looks like something Run Off Groove would post. I can't figure out where it originated from. It's a...

Are you trying to change the output impedance to work with the fuzz? True bypassing that pedal will not be easy, if not impossible.

Wouldn't splitting a wet out do what you want minus the CV sequencing? Like run only the repeats into other effects such as modulation.

Always thought the originals were barely at unity gain. Love the almost crappy 60s fuzz harshness of the one I built. I was thinking of adding a boost to the end of mine for a while. Curious if they put a boost in front to add sustain or saturation. Because sustain isn't an adjective I'd use...

The transformer is just acting as a pickup simulator in a way by getting the impedance similar to the guitar pickup's. It's a cool easy trick to get stubborn first-in-line pedals to work with buffers in other pedals in front of them. I've used actual guitar pickups in a pinch in series to...